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Everything posted by Galaga_Mike

  1. I've built 7-8 guitars and am starting to question my fretboard process. Curious to hear what other people do. I typically: 1. Cut fretslots a bit deeper than needed to account for radiusing 2. Do the inlay 3. Glue fretboard to neck 4. Radius the fretboard 4.5 (uplanned) Re-deepen the edges of the fretslots, maybe re-deepen some of the inlay pockets near the edge of the neck 5. Install frets The problem is that 4.5 step where I often have to re-deepen fretslots and some inlay pockets. Thinking about radiusing before fretslots and inlay, but I like the nice flat surface
  2. After building 4-5 guitars I decided to take the time to rebuild a few of my jigs. Just wanted to share this flattening jig. The rails are stacked mdf held down by bolts so I can change the rail height. Everything is based on 1/2 inch conduit and 1/4-20 bolts. I used tee nuts for a grid of hold down points. I'll also be mounting radiused guides on the short end so it will double as a fretboard radius jig (which was the whole original motivation).
  3. Finished this build this weekend!!! I may thin out the neck slightly in the future, but that won't change the photos, so you guys can consider this one done. Overall I am really pleased with this one. Good things I learned: - Attention to detail is by far the most important thing in the quality of a guitar - Take your time - I like zero frets - I like roller bridges Lessons learned: - Plan your neck taper, not just your width at the neck. I can't believe I missed this one. Still not 100% pleased with the fix, I may work on it more if/when I slim up the neck. - I will probably fin
  4. Finished the Tru Oil process and wired it up yesterday. Plays like a dream. Completed pictures coming soon. I'm still considering shaving the neck a little more since it is slightly thick, but I'll play it for a week or so before I decide. Pictures to follow. It was nice to do some simple wiring since my last guitar was ridiculously complicated (sustainer, kill switch, coil taps, etc.). This one is just two volume pots with a push/pull coil tap for each pickup and a selector switch.
  5. Oh, and to answer your other question: At least for a kill switch, the switch isn't carrying your guitar signal when it's not being used, so there is no tone impact. If you use it for coil tapping or anything else, it will be carrying the guitar signal and may affect tone (but I seriously, seriously doubt it).
  6. There are two switch properties that aren't necessarily related to each other. The contacts: A SPST switch has two terminals and just connects those terminals when activated. A DPDT switch has three terminals and connects the C terminal to either the NO or NC terminal when activated. The actuator: Momentary - Only activated when pushed, deactivates when you let go Maintained - Activated when you push it, stays activated until you push it again. The arcade button I used was DPDT (3 terminals) but Momentary (deactivates when you let go). I've never seen a maintained arcade button
  7. I used one of these on a recent build. The biggest challenge was depth, make sure it fits in the body. They are momentary switches, so they only close the contacts when the button is pressed, which doesn't make them useful for any real on/off or coil tap uses, but they are great for kill switches. For "press the button to kill the signal", just do OutputJackHotLead -> Switch (C&NO Contacts) -> Ground I prefer to wire it in series with a toggle switch so that you toggle the switch to enable the kill button then you "press the button to make noise (let go and the signal dies)"
  8. Quick update. I ended up getting some good advice over in the Solid Body Chat forum and I belt sanded the neck to a slimmer taper. After that I have just been sanding for a few hours to go through 80, 220, and 320 grits. I then wet the guitar to raise the grain and resanded to 320. Today I put on Timbermate to seal the mahogany grain. I'm planning on starting the Tru-oil finish in a couple of days.
  9. For future reference, here's what I ended up doing: I had nightmares of a router bit grabbing a fret end, so I went with a handheld belt sander. First I marked off the taper I wanted with tape: VERY carefully clamped the guitar and slowly used the handheld belt sander to bring the fretboard edge to the tape line. This was really controllable and went pretty quickly. The only drawback is that I can't get all the way down the neck due to the horns. I'm sure some type of industrial or benchtop belt sander would have allowed this. Anyway, this worked well. I recommend only sanding so t
  10. That's right, the bridge spacing is great, so changing the nut won't make much difference. My plan was to taper the neck up to the 20th fret and leave the wider fretboard on the last two frets, but I like your idea of removing just the fretboard part at the body. I'll have to think about that. Thanks for the input!
  11. Is there any hope that a router bit could eat through frets? That sounds kind of dangerous. I was just thinking of a couple of long hours with a file. Then I would use a round file to shape the "swoop" near the heel.
  12. Agreed. It would go from a thinner neck down to about the 20th fret, then "swoop" out to a wider fretboard for the last two frets. I think it would look really strange, but it would make the guitar play so much better.
  13. I thought about that, and that would fix the nut end, but the bridge end is too narrow as well. To fix the bridge end I would need to remake a bridge base so that the posts stay the same but the saddles spread out. That seems more difficult than filing down some wood and frets.
  14. This is a repost from my question in In Progress section, but it might be more appropriate and helpful over here. I have an issue with my build: The neck is slightly too big and about 1/16" too wide on each side. I'm sure that I can just thin the neck out from the back, but can I use a file to retaper the neck at this point? As you can see, the extra space on either side of the E strings is pretty constant down the neck, and it's just too much. If I could just shave some off the edges of the neck this guitar would be a dream. If I do that I need to figure out how to transition from a skinn
  15. First string up! First impressions: plays better than any guitar I've ever owned. Action and fret buzz were fantastic with no adjustments. Love it. Now the one issue I have: The neck is slightly too big and about 1/16" too wide on each side. I'm sure that I can just thin the neck out from the back, but can I use a file to retaper the neck at this point? As you can see, the extra space on either side of the E strings is pretty constant down the neck, and it's just too much. If I could just shave some off the edges of the neck this guitar would be a dream. If I do that I need to figure out
  16. I ended up having a happy medium by just recessing the posts instead of the whole bridge. This gave me the extra 4-5 mm margin I wanted and I think it looks really nice, too.
  17. Okay, I may have a problem that I need advice on. I checked my neck angle before I glued it up and it looked good. I wonder if the neck did not quite seat perfectly because the angle is now slightly too low. It may be okay, but it looks like I'll have to bottom out the bridge to get decently low action. My guess is that once there is relief in the neck it will need to go any lower, so this may be a problem. So I'm thinking this is a good time for a recessed bridge. Any suggestions/comments? I want to make sure I have some margin for adjustment in the future, and I think a recessed bridge
  18. I rounded the edges of the body, sanded it down to 220 and glued in the neck. No turning back now.
  19. Thanks! That means a lot coming from an experienced build like you.
  20. First neck fitting tonight. It is very, very tight. I had to really wedge it in there. I think the glue will lubricate it a little bit and make it go together smoother. Anyway, I'm very glad I redid the neck pocket. I missed the center line of the guitar by about 2-3mm at the bridge, but if that's the worst mistake I make I'll be thrilled.
  21. Some updates. I got the neck pretty much finished with the tuner holes drilled. I then routed the neck pocket and immediately realized that it was looser than I would like (about 1-2 mm of slop). Posted in the solid body section and got a great suggestion to glue in a block and reroute. Did the reroute today with about 5 layers of tape on the template and it's much better. A little more sanding and the neck should wedge in there very nicely.
  22. So I haven't quite found the answer to this question anywhere. When TOM bridges are set, it seems that people typically angle the bridge by making the bass side about 2-3 mm longer than the scale. Is it okay to do this with a roller bridge? I know it's only a small angle, but the rollers will not be perpendicular to the strings. I'm probably over thinking this. Thanks, Mike
  23. I got the neck rough carved. I like the profile a lot. It's a medium thickness but fits the hand very well.
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