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1Way

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  1. JoeAArthur (everyone) I'm struggling to figure out which way to go for the control layout. I'm going with just 2 humbuckers I want separate dedicated vol and tone controls for each pup I want variable coil tapping for each coil I want 3way switches, no 5+ways I have a total of 4 stacked concentric 500k pots (=8pot&knob sets) and a total of 3 3way switches, and I might relocate my 1/4" jack from the face to the side to allow for more controls. Imagine a guitar with one pickup and two holes for the tone and volume spots, and I want to do variable coil tapping on each coil. How about hook up both coils with their own volume controls (two knobs) in the same spot, then to adjust the volume on that humbucker, move the pair together (if they move together easily enough).
  2. JoeAArthur Thanks much. Full volume I meant "include access up to full volume", not "always play at full volume". You said (Edited for clarification) I basically dropped the idea of one volume control for each "coil" since I found out about doing dual coil tapping on one pot, except that may cause volume level issues. I want 1-volume 1-tone 1-variable coil tap control for each pickup. That is six total pots/knobs, and not a volume control for each coil. I gladly accept a two way pot for coil splitting "if" it can be implemented without automatically halving or doubling the electronic output of either the "coil tap" or "humbucker" mode. If anything I want more beneficial options/control, not less. I wonder if I still need 2-1meg pots to take care of coil tapping both pickups, or if somehow I can make it work with 500k pots. I'd rather not go out and buy more parts if I don't really need to... I should have most of my parts in a week or so. I realize that some experimentation may apply. But it's better having a good idea about what your doing "before" modifying things.
  3. MasterPuppets I think it bares notice that as far as I can tell, the same sort of “lethal threat” exists in any situation where you are around two very different ground/earth and voltage values. I’m not convinced that residential electric is any better than business. However, unlike an electronic guitar, in most situations electronic appliances have been constructed so that people are not exposed to the ground. I already carry a power tester, so I need to get at least one portable GFCI. You mentioned the Guitarnuts solution. I think you are referring to the use of a GFCI which is located on the left sidebar after the standard navigation links and after the outlet tester blurb. It is more of an issue of “breaking” or “shutting off” the circuit, than it is “absorption”. Mike Sulzer You said Please explain, do you mean the sidebar info on the GFCI at gutiarnuts, or, something elsewhere?
  4. Aluminum foil. Wow, this is interesting. How does aluminum compare to copper foil? I'm looking for shielding myself and am currious about mil thickness and implimentation suggestions. Sorry MasterPuppets, I have not tried that shock prevention, but sounds like a good idea...
  5. JoeAArthur Thanks for helping with the great layout diagram! Seems it's more handy than I at first realized. Thanks much. ... Wait, ... I have one question about your diagram. In the middle position, since the nature of a linear pot is to be full on at one end, and full off at the other, and (electrically, not volume) midpoint half way thru, so when that pot is set to humbucking (no coil tap, right in the middle position), then am I correct that both pickups are set at something less than full volume? If so, then maybe I don't like this approach so well after all... I want full volume when not coil tapping.
  6. Lovekraft Thanks for the response. I see your point about equivalent ratios and your right in that every possible ratio is available while one (of the two coils) is set to max. Thanks much, I stand corrected. As to Oh yes, I forgot about that. I don’t know off the top of my head what the effect would be, but it would likely double or half something and that’s not acceptable. I need to change my plan. Ok, so if I use just one pot to variably coil split one humbucker pickup, then what is the best design for the volume and tone controls? At first I thought it would be cool to have a separate tone control for each coil, but maybe that is not such a great benefit, especially if having two tone controls causes a problem. Would you suggest a dedicated master volume tone variable dual acting coil tap control for each pickup? Sounds viable to me, what do you think? Suggestion 1 I just ordered 4 concentric 500k/500k CTS pots. So I’m sorta stuck with using about one hundred dollars worth(!) of pots and knobs... So far, I’d say, hook up 2 pairs of knobs for volume and tone control of each pickup. As to the 4 other pots, 1 pair for each pickup, one pot can be used for dual variable coil tapping, and the other can be used for... ? Suggestion 2 I might consider having half standard single knob controls, and the other half dual concentric for 6 pot controls total. Other recommended features besides coil tapping? I'm not sure if there are other things like series/parallel or in phase and out of phase I might be interested in. Push/push and push/pull I have a Gibson SG, which is very slim, so I’m told that I can’t use some of the push/pull type pots because they are too long, although I’ve heard of some SG’s with push/push for example, but I don’t know who makes them or if they are quality parts or not. Thanks much for explaining the coil tap function in relationship to the 4 wires! So you don't need to do anything special individually with those two wires, just leave then connected together as effectively one lead, and as diagramed eariler, either variably tap it to ground or hot to select for the one or the other coil. Pretty cool!
  7. Scott, Would you please explain what “series link” is, and how to identify it? I understand that every pickup comes with a hot wire and a ground for the enter pickup. When you have 4 conductors and a ground, I assume that you have access to both coils in the pickup. Which somehow basically consists of two coils of spooled up wire, and each coil has two ends, hence the four wires. Thanks!
  8. JoeAArthur First, I'm not certain about your proposal, please help me understand it. Do you mean to use a blender pot, where it’s like a single knob for treble and bass, you get only treble on full treble and only bass on full bass, but both blended in toward the middle where they are both full on. I believe that is the function you speak of, if so, it requires a “blender” pot, where they both peek at the middle position and may have a center detent position to hold that setting, and the one or the other direction bleeds off as you move away from the middle position. And, just in case, I’m not saying you can’t do that. I’m saying I’d rather have a separate volume and tone control for each coil, that is why I want so many knobs. See if I play with one volume knob to variably mix either coil in or out of the mix, then I might constantly wonder which tone knob was active or which is semi active or which is not active. With dedicated tone/volume pairs, you always know how much the tone is in effect because of the closely associated volume setting (“closely associated” in settings relationship, and in location). Also, I tend to view variable coil tapping as a one coil event, I most likely would leave it tapped at a general vicinity and make adjustments as needed, although it would be nice to be able to pan the entire variable coil tapping spectrum with one knob. So even if I had blender pots, I’d still rather have stacked concentric to keep the volume and the tone controls associated and dedicated. Also, your way does not allow mixed blending of the two coils, like 75/40, yours would always be that at least one coil is 100% full volume (or maybe its 50% each in the middle?). Not enough flexability. Then I’ll have two three way switches, each switch will be a coil selector, one switch for the neck pickup and one switch for the bridge pickup. Single coil > both coils HB > second single coil If I want only one HB or only one SC on, I’d have to turn off the other coil(s) with it’s associated volume control(s). Whenever I coil tap, you always have the one coil going weaker than the other coil, the goal of my version of variable coil tapping is not to balance out the volume levels between the two coils, the goal to discover a variable coil setting that happens to provide the best amount of mix for the particular music selection/style you are wanting to play. I find that at this stage of my rig’s underachievement (lacks upgraded pickups), that I tend to keep the guitar’s volume set to around 75% to help it remain tight. With variable coil tapping, I can increase the volume while sporting precise control over how clean I want my guitar to sound.
  9. Unclej By being able to tap either coil exactly how much you want, you can dial in between sounds that one person said can approach a P90 sound, I think he said it was like coil tapping something modest like around 30%, so it was mostly single coil, but with more bite than if it was tapped 100%. JoeAArthur Coil tapping is tapping one coil to ground so that only the other coil works. Variable coil tapping allows you to control how much of the tapped coil gets sent to ground, and double variable coil tapping is the same thing but for both sides! I wish to have a volume and tone knob for each coil in my pair of humbuckers. Plus if you are combining single coils from a different pickup, you want to know which one you are matching up if you want it to remain humbucking. Mikhailgtrski Of special note, one can get several interesting in between sounds by variably splitting. So far I’m thinking of getting into a Bare Knuckle Mule for the bridge, maybe a Stormy Mondays for the neck later on. What kind of guitar did you match those 59’s up to?
  10. I'm going to have a separate pot for each coil, so each coil tap adjustment will amount to a volume knob for that side of the humbucker. I don’t see any diagrams or layouts explaining how to tap both or either side of the humbucker, just a side. Some say “either side” but do “not” explain which side you get because they are apparently only concerned with tapping one side or the other, not optionally either (or both). Lets say I have 4 conductor wires coming out of my pickup and one ground shield. Can I hook up each coil to it's own volume and tone control, and thus be able to variably coil tap either side or both sides of the pickup? You can variably coil tap both sides, like cut one to 1/3 volume and the other to 2/3 volume it allow virtually any blend of coil tapping possible. I’ll have stacked concentric pots and stacked concentric knobs to allow for the extra control. So how do you hookup such a humbucker? Ground > Ground 1+ wire > 1- wire > 2- wire > 2+ wire > Lets please try to stick to layouts, I’m no good with electronic symbols.
  11. The Fatalities, your plastic cover changing the sound compared to what? If it's compared to having a nickel or silver metal cover then yes, taking off a metal cover is said to make the pickup a bit hotter and perhaps have a bit tighter focus as the metal cover serves to attenuate and spread things out some. Having a plastic cover like EMG's is like having no cover. I don't know about the problems posting, I always suggest making sure your OS is upgraded, and your web browser as well. The following is just a guess, but if your posting while this website’s server is undergoing occasional maintenance, you “might” get an error message like that. I suggest letting someone know if the problem persists even at different times of the day. Also you might want to make sure you don’t have this problem at other similar webforums with the same kind of forum software (Invision Power Board).
  12. How does one go about being able to selectively coil tap each side of a humbucker pickup? Here is my vague understanding of a four wire pickup. One is for ground, one is hot/signal, the other two are for coil tap and are just connected together if you don’t want to coil tap. Seems to me that somehow the hot and ground must become involved as I just do not see how one could coil tap two different halves of pickup by opening or closing one set of wires. "One connection" or "disconnection" should only produce one effect which should be to shut off (or turn back on) one half of the pickup. So the question remains, how do you coil tap the other side? Plus I understand that there are primarily two different ways to interrupt a coil tap circuit, one is to break the circuit with a switch or variably brake it with a control pot, the other is to send the signal to ground via a switch or variably with a control pot. I’m not to worried about variable coil tapping at the moment, but after I learn how the circuit works to coil tap both coils correctly, then I want to place both coil tapping functions onto separate control pots. I’ve been scanning for diagrams for how to tap both sides of a pickup, but so far no luck...
  13. So far my Gibson SG Std pickup upgrade looks like it would be a vintage vibe PAF for the bridge, and a P90 in the neck, or I’m also considering adding a P90 in the middle for some exciting pickup combinations. However, I've heard that some do not like using a third pickup because it gets in the way when digging in (deep) with picking. I suppose one could lower the middle pickup somewhat, but then you quickly loose more and more peak performance so you can't do that too much. If this issue is too much of a problem, then I would resign to a double pickup setup to allow plenty of room for deep picking. I would not think such a thing would be a problem, but I’ve scarcely even demoed a triple pickup guitar. However I've heard it from more than one source that sometimes players complain about triple pickups because of occasionally interfering with picking. Is this a big deal or not so much? Does a middle position third pickup get in the way of picking for you, or is it something one learns gets accustomed to?
  14. PSW, I was wondering if you have given it much thought about using optical pickups which are impervious to magnetism and would let your driver be stationed anywhere. I've never used them, just wondered what your thoughts are about them...
  15. I am confused about something, probably mostly from not understanding things well enough. When I was in school many years ago, I thought that; - a magnet had a North and a South pole - the magnetic field runs from one pole to the other, they do not go in both directions But, in your graphic, the single coil example show a north south pole relationship where the magnetic field goes in two different directions depending upon what part of the polar end you are looking at. North inward, the field goes out away, North outwards the field is returning. (!?!) I would never assume this to be the case. =========Quote========= ========EndQuote======== I thought part of the definition of a “magnetic pole” would conform to the idea that the direction of the field is concentrated (moreso as we look at the field lines that are closer to the magnet) and going in one (general) direction. I don't mean to detract from this thread's focus with this sideline curiosity. One issue I see, might be about the physical connection between the "magnet" poles. Maybe the two magnets shown are "not" physically connected somehow. The graphic show's them separated by the coil, but I don't know if they might be connected in the middle of the coil and we can't see it or not. So if this is a physically seperate dual magnet thing, that would point to a configuration I simply am not familiar with... However, "if" the entire top magnet is N and the entire bottom magnet is south, then I would assume that the mag>coil>mag configuration is forcing that relationship and thus effectively couples the two magnets to act like one. Hense my confusion/lack of understanding. I don't believe you can have an isolated magnet with just one pole, they always have a different pole at opposing ends, incoming and outgoing.
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