bontempo

Greetings! I'm almost done with my 2nd guitar project and have run into a snag. I've applied a very brittle delicate and somewhat porous raw flitch of waterfall bubinga veneer, which has a dark beautiful 3d grain. I sealed it with 2 coats of shellac and then started with 4 coats of minwax brushing lacquer, sanding between coats to level the veneer. so far, so good. The final coat was sanded w/400 until smooth and level. I then applied about 6 coats of minwax gloss spray lacquer over 3 days, sanding between ever other coat. so far so good! I'm letting it dry before polishing phase and I'm noticing a vertical haze in various parts of the finish over the veneer. Question: How can I fix this. Do I have to sand it all off? Doctor, Doctor, I need a cure

After 2months of fiddling around, I've finally completed my home made SG project. I must say, I surprised myself with how well I did. It sounds and plays great also. How 'bout that killer green flamed maple!! As a Fender strat lover, I always had a secret admiration for the SG after seeing the WHO many years ago and decided I'd build one. The finish is impressive also! I really didn't think I had it in me. If you've thought building, just jump in and give it a shot. Now I'm gonna enjoy the thrill.

thanks, guys, and yes, that's why I had to remove the saddles. one other question, how far backk from the bridge do you recommend the stop bar be positioned, and is this as critical as the bridge?

So, what you're saying is use a straight edge from the "E" cuts in the nut to the saddles on the bridge? or just the sides or it doesn't matter. forgive my ignorance, I just don't want to blow this.

thanks, but the bridge saddles are notched according to the thickness of the strings and the angles of the saddles are opposite for the three lower vs the three upper strings. that said, I'm still unsure on the Centering of the bridge relative to the neck and fingerboard. any suggestions?

Ok... new here and my first post. While not "scratch" building a guitar, I'm completing a L/H SG type. I bought the body and neck from an ebay supplier. The only documentation were the basics, 24 3/4 scale, Neck pocket is 2 1/4 in. wide. Nut is 1 5/8 in. wide and 2 1/4 in. at the base. Body is 1 1/4 thick. All of the routing had been done for the neck (set) and pups. That left me with the staining and finishing, which I've completed with great results and satisfaction. (green flame maple..killer!) I bought a tune-o-matic and stop bar style bridge. I had to dis-assemble the bridge and reverse the saddles for lefty use. I bought and attached a L/H graphtec nut. I've attached the neck using Titebond hide glue. Now here is my challenge. How do I center and position the bridge. Everything I've read so far addresses only the distance based on the scale, (24.801, as stewmac suggests) etc. I got one chance to drill and get this right .