Daniel Sorbera

I've done a few, and I've seen quite a few around here. It's a pain in the butt to work and finish. But the end result looks pretty awesome and the tone is great. You would think it would be very bright since it's so dense, but all the guitars I built with it had a really strong midrange (in a good way) but not a lot of brightness. It was something like mahogany, but with much more mids. That being said, I hope you have sharp tools (lookout for tearout any time your routing!) and sharp finishing skills because it's a real pain in the rear. I was never really impressed with that piece of wenge on Wez's baritone (of course the guitar was great, just not that wood) I thought it looked flat and bland. Wenge can get so much more interesting.

+1 Leave it in a nice stable environment. Remember, if you wouldn't be comfortable in an area, neither is your wood.

3rd one was a commission for a friend. He came back for more as well.

Is it quartersawn or flatsawn? I'd give it at least a month to acclimate to your shop. If it's still exactly the same after a month it's pretty much stabilized at that point and I'd plane it flat (if it's thick enough for your neck planed flat).

The break looks clean, so you should be able to fix it fairly well. The hardest part is figuring out how your going to clamp it. Get a hold of some wood clamps and make some sort of blocks that allow you to get some good clamping pressure on it (really it won't take much pressure) and use a good wood glue. Make sure to follow the instructions for the glue and let it cure long enough before unclamping.

I'm thinking of trying out some 2 part poly. Can I use any automotive clear? Or is there some made specifically for wood?

Looks like a perfect opportunity to use some binding. No one would ever know it was there.

Exactly what I was thinking. Pretty big waste of material for no real reason if you'd ask me. I only go as thick as the binding.

Koa wins.

Soft, sort of like mahogany. I'd put a finish on it like a maple board.

+1 on that. All nice guitars, but that SG looks extra sweet.

I've had excellent results from my Powermatic bandsaw and a really good 3/4" blade. It only requires minimal sanding to remove the saw marks and it's perfect every time.

I use all of the above. My amp only has a tone control, which I have set a little below noon. I also have an EQ pedal on my board with I use to cut the highs a bit and add some upper mids. But while I'm playing I use my tone control on the guitar, in conjunction with the pickup selector all the time during songs, between songs, everything. I also use my volume control a lot, and although I have a volume pedal I only use that for times when I need to do a quick change in volume or do a swell. I use my guitars volume to bring down the overdrive level for softer songs for example.

I've ordered 10+ times from gilmer and have been satisfied every single time. Great wood, great service.

http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator Just click the button for acoustic guitar. It will tell you exactly how much compensation you need. That sucker is accurate too, all my guitars come out with perfect intonation.

Exactly what I was thinking. Give it a 45 degree bevel around the edge showing both woods. That would look pretty sweet.

Diet coke is only good for having fun with Mentos. Real coke (or any other soda for that matter) is only good for pouring down the drain. Hate the stuff.

I've never had trouble gluing ebony before, either with wood glue or CA.

Welcome to the forums! I think I was about your age when I joined here and started guitar building. Also just let me just say thank you for forming your post intelligently and using full sentences. You show maturity well beyond your years.

I made one with an exceptionally small surface area once, like extending 1.8" and it's still holding strong today. Although I wouldn't suggest doing that :D

Very very nice. I never thought of doing an oil finish on limba, and man did it turn out great! I'll have to do some like that in the future.

Alright alright I'll throw in my .02 But the last time I did everyone got mad and thought I was trying to make my builds look good by not commenting on them while critiquing other builds.... ScottyD: Very nice piece of maple. I really like the use of the wood pickup covers. I'm not too sold on the body shape and the fact that it's headless, but that's just my personal preference. Obviously great craftsmanship. Good job. Avengers63: I like how you did a unique carve making it very rounded like that. It looks comfortable to play, but I'm not so sure about the looks. It's almost too bubbly for my taste. Also the black grainfill over natural ash just doesn't work for me on this one. I think it should have been either a color, or strait up natural. SA Auditorium: Jaden: I like the multilam neck and the clean look of the pickups without rings. Overall it looks like something you would want to pickup and take to every gig. Nice indeed. Simo: Very nice piece of quilt (obviously). I really like the black hardware on the natural finish, very classy. The only thing I don't like is the limba back and maple neck look too plain compared to the front of it. I would have liked to see more exotic wood used for the back as well as the top. Obviously great craftsmanship all around. Low End Fuzz: Very unique. But I think there is just too much going on, especially on the back of the neck. It just looks jumbled where it could look really cool if maybe you did just a bit less. Metz Guitar Pain: Pretty cool looking body shape. It's got loads of character, but it's just not for me. The color is a turn off for me as well, but I guess some would like it. Nova Neck Through: RFR: Very rustic looking. I think if you had distressed hardware it would complete the look. A few years of playing from now I can see this guitar looking really cool after it has a few battle scars. Good job to all entrys, lots of nice guitars this month. It's great to see the skill level of everyone on the forum always going up. There was that nice enough?

Nova neck through Mahogany/Maple neck through Mahogany wings flame maple binding on everything Ebony fingerboard/headstock overlay Seymour Duncan Vintage P-90 pickups (love them) Matching mahogany control cover Satin finish without grainfilling so you can still feel the grain Link to more pictures.

I've found that once you hit around 14"-16" radius fretting out is really a none issue.

I don't know what state those stewmac kits come in. Was the bracing already on the top? If not did you build in the correct radius? There is no reason why when the heel is touching the body that the fingerboard would need to be 1/8" above the top, unless the top was very flat. But if that is the case don't sweat it, it is possible to unglue the fingerboard extension and make a shim to fit under it to get you the right angle. It wouldn't be ideal, but it would fix your problem.