Kammo1

Bro if it helps go to Floyd Rose website and they have them on there just print them off stick to some MDF and voila you're done, hope it helps.

For water based guns I would use a 1.5mm nozzle gun but check with the finish tech department and they will recommend the appropriate size but I think 1.5mm is a good starting point. Now as reagards guns agree a gravity fed gun is perfect, make and model is entirely based on your budget "BUT" bear in mind this simple fact which I'm sure everyone will agree with me. Nearly 99.9% of all finished guitar bodies are wetsanded flat after the application of the final gloss topcoats so a £400+ spraygun that has superior atomisation is not needed, sure it will make the wetsanding alot easier as it has less defects but I can assure you a £20-30 spraygun of e-bay will do just a good a job if you have tuned the gun to the finish,trust me! I have 4 guns which I use all the time 3 mini HVLP guns both with 1mm nozzles and I can spray almost anything through them provided I have thinnned them accordingly will very little orange peel or surface defects. 3 full size guns a Devilbiss copy 1.3mm, a cheapo primer gun with a 1.8mm nozzle and a full size gun for my Polyester clears ie 2.0mm and they will handle any finish on the market. Total cost of all my guns £150 if not less. I have seen guitars sprayed by amateurs that have used £300 Sata guns as they belived they would have a flawless finish and to be honest I could of done better brushing the stuff on!!!! don't be misled by all the hype and bullshit out there find out what works best for you, yes it may cost you a fair bit but in the end its what works for you. I have been finishing guitars for well over 30 years and to be honest I am still learning and keeping up with new products and if in doubt always ask the tech dept of the paints you're using and what they recommend and they will be only glad to help. Even suggest trial samples and they may oblige or sell you them for a discounted rate. I am trying some fabulous Polyester at the moment and to be honest the gloss level is out of this world and is absoutely crystal clear but its amazing stuff. i am testing it at the moment and I know for a fact I will be using this 100% of the time, hope this helps.

There are not many caring sharing considerate guitar makers but bro I tip my hat off to you and its good to know there are great guys still left in the world "CHEERS!"

Wez sorry if I came across as slagger but I say things as they are and don't mean to offend anyone ever and if you are a fan of them thats perfectly fine as obviously you have found something in them that I haven't........

explain! you may laugh your bollox off at this - but bareknuckle offer a great service and make wonderful pickups, as do many other people... which does not diminish kent's work in any way Wez I just don't rate their products at all and to be brutally honest I don't think they are that good but thats JMHO. I have heard these and others and have to say that for me its a load of old tosh. Very expensive,overated and to be honest if they gave them to me I would chuck them in the bin, Kents pick-ups are head and shoulders above these guys and over the years they have done me and my guitars proud and service second to none, so for me its the moto "if it ain't broke don't go under the bonnet" if you know what I mean

Ok first off you really don't need a blueprint of the neck as this normally will have pre-determined measurements and a scale length that you can get anywhere ie nut width scale length,no of frets etc,etc. What you will struggle to get is an accurate headstock design of an Ibanez origin, now if this is your 1st build sketch one out as near as possible to a diagram you have and then go from there and its not that hard with the advent of Photoshop, Corel draw etc. Now if you want it bang on to an original you will have to beg someone on this forum who has one and will share the design or image at the correct size, hope this helps

Beautiful work brutha have to agree entirely about Kent's pick-ups have been using them for well over 30+ years and have no desire to look elsewhere. I laugh my bollocks off when I read posts about Bareknucle pick-ups and how wonderful they are I refuse to build any guitar that a customer requests when they insist on BKP-ups I show them the door !

That looks damn cool bro is that neck fanned fretted ?

+1 nowadays e-bay can be your friend

My guess is if you have sprayed it on too thick its more than likely you have trapped mositure underneath the clear and if the top coat is dry it cannot escape and you have a "blushed" area which will give it a blueish hue. Don't ask me how I know.......

Very cool guitar Wez and I agree Rustins Plastic Coating can literally be painted over anything and the adhesion is far superior that some 2k Clears, great job

You could build one of these(scroll down the page a bit) : http://www.luthierscooltools.com/Dwgs.htm Anyone know how this jig works? The picture doesn't really show anything. I'm trying to decide between the various different designs and I'd like to know what this jig's approach is. The platform that the fretboard is attached to swings side to side. It's basically an upside-down version of the other jigs that have been posted. I made a similar one, but it rides through my thickness sander. Would love to see some pics if you will

If you can share if allowed how exactly does this work ?, I can't seem to get my head around the concept but if it is a good set-up I will invest in some plans.

I would be tempted to find some very thin Mylar coloured vinyl and use this if it helps instead of the paper.

What I would do is try and find the bit that tore off and reglue it back or you might if you are lucky loose alot of that mistake when you profile the back of the neck and carry the carve way onto the fretboard if you get the jist of it. If its a 1st attempt it shouldn't matter that much as I would keep it as a trophy in my workshop and keep looking at it so you will be looking at it and keep saying to yourself take extra care. Chances are bro that you will not make this mistake again as its a learning curve and we have all done it. If it makes you feel at ease I have been in the game for well over 30 years and I still get mishaps but mine is just down to not paying attention when I should, hope it helps.

Nice build bro just a question did you do the vine inlay yourself or is it a pre -done one ? reason I ask is I would love to build a Jem for myself and although I have seen some pre-made ones the quality wasn't very good any help would be greatly appreciated

Exactly because it works. One of the top UK guitar refinishers who has since retired used nothing but T-cut for the removal of imperfections whether large scratches or small.Remember guys alot of stuff out there is all hype so try what works and stick with it

Hi, I finally came down to 3 products which produced absolutely excellent results T-Cut made by Colourplan and Menzerna compounding and polishing heads. After flatting down to 800 grit I used the white compounding head, followed by the orange and then the yellow pad with Farecla G10 and the finish was like glass. On flatting with 1200-1500 I followed it with the T-cut, orange pad and then Farecla G10 compound. When all the swirl and haze marks were removed I just give it a final rub with some 3M hand glaze by hand and the shine is a mile deep. In general I always flat down to 1500-2000 grit and then follow with the T-Cut with the orange pad and then the yellow finishing pad with the G10 and the results are consistent 100% everytime without fail. I use a cheap DA sander with a velcro base which I can attach the pads. Like I have said the Menzerna compounds are superb but the results I got with off the shelf products are just as good so if I ever run out I don't have to order the Menzerna stuff I just pop in the car to my local autoparts store and buy it there and then and I know it will work. I scuffed sanded a Polyester guitar body that was like 10 years old and the finish was as hard as nails and the same products and the same procedure produced a finish that you could of swore had just been sprayed it was amazing. I have been guitar making and repairing for the last 28+ years and this has always been a troublesome area which nobody would share their knowledge but I can tell you and guarantee 100% it will work, try it and if it doesn't then you must be doing something wrong let me know how you get on and others as well.

Hey Yorgo are you the same bro who used to be on the George Lynch forum ? if so its Laz aka Kammo1, how ya doin bro anyway back to your question "YES" it is fabulous stuff for a spraycan product and the secret is letting the stuff flash off 10-15 minutes and letting it on in thin coats overlapping by about 75% and laying the guitar flat or in a horizontal position so it can flow out nicely and obviously keep spraying till the whole can is used you might as well as the stuff does not dry hard in the can but goes into a state where its no longer a 2K component but more of a single stage lacquer and it can still be used but has not got the hardness and durabilty of its former self.Bro if you need any further info PM me and I can help you as much as I can

About a month or so back I did some tests with a combination of pads and compounds and came up with varying results. I spent a fortune on different products and I have finally found a system that will deal with scratches and swirl marks on cellulose,acrylic single stage,polyurethane 2k and even the rock hard polyesters.I will stress one thing and that is don't read too much into the hype that some products tell you as the stuff that I bought will give you superior gloss and flawlessness for a fraction of the price some superior claim products have.The best products that I use cost less than £15 and that is with the pads as well. Do some of your own testing and come up with what works for you but like I say don't dismiss cheaper products they work just as well

Some sound advice and agree its going to get some serious attention to get me to focus on the software side of things as computers are not my forte. Still I have to start somewhere and did find a easy sort of CAD drawing software called deltacad which is descibed as the easiest CAD software to use in the world so I am fiddling at the moment with this to see if I can get some results. Now what would be an absolute marvel is if anyone can draw some fingerboards in a CAD format in various fret scales and number of frets so we can use them as a template and just drag and drop shapes where you want them and then get it off to Gcode and get cutting now how easy is that LOL!!!! if I do draw some up I will post them for all to share fingers crossed.

Hi yep the My CNC forum is a great inspiration and there are some clever guys around there and some nice built DIY machines, I will be making a small one just for basically doing things like inlays etc. I have been custom guitar making for the last 28 years and its come to a time in my life that doing this work by hand is very,very hard and if I work it out per hour and time spent it doesn't work out cost effectively. Therefore a small sized CNC has to be the way to go. I will be using the Mach3 software and Cut 2D as this looks like a superb and very reasonably priced software and best bit about it its based here in the UK in the Midlands not far from me. Have to admit I am still trying to get my head around drawing something in CAD and then scaling it up and then saying to myself how do you put that shape in the required spot ? Maybe the more experienced guys can do a small tutorial on how to draw a shape, dimension it and put it where you want it ? Now that would be cool as I cannot for the life of me see how its done. Anybody ?

Andy always like to see your stuff and what you do that is going to be killer

Hey Andy nice job which 2k can did you end up getting I am thinking of trying some out and if you've had success with that one its definatley what I will be ordering

Bro don't want to come across as an idiot but what exactly have you done ?