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Kammo1

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Everything posted by Kammo1

  1. Awesomme just what I needed Cheers brutha!
  2. Hi guys didn't know if anyone has or can provide a paper template tracing of a Firebird 6 string guitar, I am willing to pay if someone can provide one for me, let me know what you would like for doing this. I have used the search function and many have built some of these great guitars and I would like to do so myself but finding an accurate plan is proving damn impossible, hope you guys can help.
  3. The 2K finish we are talking about is a 2 component urethane/acrylic coating that is chemically cured by a catalyst or activator and does not rely on curing by air/moisture. I believe in the US its called Aeromax or something like that, there are loads on the market some good some bad so you are going to have to rely on posters on this forum posting of their comments and recommendations to see what success they have had good or bad. Generally I have tried them all and for me the 2k stuff is the way to go just great stuff "BUT" the downsides to these are the health issues and get a good respirator for these rated for isocyanates, search this forum as it been covered to death and nearly all the info I was seeking for found it on this great site and from members that have used or are still using the stuff hope this helps
  4. Many thanks for that Andy, how are you finding the 2k clear in a can for build up ? ie how many coats are you averaging per guitar to get a good flat glossy finish. I found that I'm using about 6-8 coats leaving it a good week and then flatting off and I'm getting good results, then again I'm using a spray gun compressor set up. Just curious as to spray can versus spray gun method
  5. Hey Andy that is a nice piece of quilt veneer been looking for some myself, whereabouts in the UK did you get that from ?? great build bro and love the colour as well, I tend to use Axminster myself quite a bit and their service is fantastic look forward to seeing that guitar in all its glory
  6. Bro when you spray you actually create a static charge and any fibres will stick to the finish or are drawn to it like a magnet! Spray elsewhere and wear a paper overall and don't spray in that nice wool jumper, wear cotton underneath your overall as well sounds daft but they will find their way onto the finish, hope this helps.
  7. JB glad we can all help out. As regarding a respirator make sure it is for 2K use! The one I have and I think also many here have is the Gerson half mask respirator I got mine on E-Bay for about £ 39 just double check yours is for 2K use. I didn't use any goggles but if you have them use them and as for protective clothing wear anything that doesn't contain wool fibres as believe it or not when you spray you actually create a static charge and your clothing fibres as you move around cling to the finish like a magnet. I have a Tyvek paper style overall which I wear and it works but then again it is almost impossible to stop every contaminant when spraying unless you have hospital like coditions but generally don't spray where you woodwork. I will be building a spray booth specifically for guitar finishing in the next month or so just to try and eliminate any problems that may occur, love to see your project when done and report back on the 2k aerosol ie ease of use how well it flows etc as it certainly can help any other guys out there that dont have access to spray equipment and good luck
  8. Yep thats it but I dont know how well it performs as I have never used this but for the price I would give it a go. Levelling a guitars finish is when you take down any imperfections or orange peel to a satin amtt finish and trying to eliminate any shiny spots,basically making the whole guitar a smooth satin or matt type finish this will the indicate that all of the guitars surface is uniform so its ready to polish. I would like to point out also alot of people make the same mistake as I have done in the past and that is when levelling a guitar finish and you start to make the guitars finish all matt looking and when you come to a shiny spot ie a dimple that is lower than the rest of the finish you try and sand this out "WRONG!" this can be removed but when it comes to polishing the guitar you will be left with a hollow that can be seen on the guitars reflective surface. What I do in these circumstances is wipe down the whole guitar of residue tack cloth it and then shoot another couple of coats till you actually build these shiny spots up, then depending on how well these coats have gone on flat down with 1200-1500 grit wet/dry paper and when all is nice and matt looking start the polishing and your results will be far superior thatn you can imagine. I have learnt over the years and expense that preparation is the key if this is bad the whole guitar finish will suffer, hope this helps.
  9. Bro if youre in the UK look on E-Bay for the 2K clear in the rattlecans I have seen them for £6.95+2.99 postage, again I have not used them but have the 2K clear which you mix and spray I have some that does not require thinning just mix 4.1 and the activator is a standard type not fast and not slow. My advice is experiment and use what youre comfortable with, also if you decide to mix your own use a standard activator as sometimes especially when you have done a graphic the clear will grab the paint and pull at it leaving a white line where youre paint was masked as it dries quite fast. I have not had any trouble whatsoever with the standard catalyst and although it takes longer to dry its trouble free, hope this helps and would love to see what youre working on.....
  10. Hi to really simplify things clearcoat rattle can will not get you the hard durable finish that you get on industry standard guitars as they use a 2K clear polyurethane or polyester finish and by the sounds of it you will not have all the necessary equipment to spray this so your alternative is to use the rattlecan stuff "BUT" don't expect the impossible. I'm sure that many on here have had good results and believe me I have tried all the nitros,acrylics but have switched over to the industry standard stuff as it is the best and most durable and the gloss is outstanding when done right. Do a search function and you can gain a wealth of knowledge from this JMHO.
  11. Generally 1/2 or 3/4 inch diameter bits to outline the guitars and 3/8 diameter for p-up routs and cavities works for me
  12. Have to agree Mike as inlay by hand is a pain in the A** sometimes I would love a CNC for this kind of work but at the moment funds are kinda low but as soon as £££ permit I'm going to invest, would make my customers much happy as you can be competitive with the pricing and this would either make or break a deal.........
  13. Bro gotta hand it to you it works and is cheap so what more can we ask for, BRILLIANT!
  14. That is the same as a router table probably better and stronger IMHO go for it and report back that is a steal at that price.
  15. Great idea and another way is to simply fix a straight edge to the workpiece and then with a guided bearing cutter rout a nice clean edge works perfect every time.
  16. Thanks for the compliments, the pick-ups are John Birch Magnums possibly the most amazing p-up you'll ever here. I love EMG 81's and over the years my ears have grown accustomed to them but these Magnums are something else. I agree the Gibson ones suck and they are nothing but a joke they are lifeless. The strap button on the top one is on the back where the heel is on the neck as this is where the customer wanted it so I must do, the Kahler is a beautiful piece of engineering but you cannot beat a Floyd just a personal fav of mine
  17. Straight from the woodshed hope you like em
  18. Hey Dino I'm fine bro Hey guys our good friend Dino does some amazing guitar finishing work as well and I'm sure you have all seen the projects he has done over the years and a great standup guy who will pass on some very,very good info if it has been done Dino's probably done it a true credit to the luthiery world
  19. Bro listen to Jim this guy is amazing and knows his stuff and I 100% agree with all that he says
  20. Hey Andy how did the 2k clear build up ? did you have to put on lots of coats ?? I have just bought some 2K clear that I will be using but only with a gun and compressor so will report back on my findings. I was looking at the same 2K stuff that you used but found it more economical to go the spraygun rout as I refinish quite a few guitars but have know switched to 2K stuff the nitro and lacquer stuff just gives me to many problems. That is a nice build bro and gotta love the reverse head always a winner in my book. Just a quick question and that is what did you use to seal the body with ie holes routs etc when you did the swirl as water is deadly once it starts to get in the wood as it swells and causes lots and lots of problems just picking your brain bro CHEERS!
  21. That is a finish check and not a crack at the neck joint trust me. To fix it simply clear the excess laquer or whatever finish that is on there ie the loose stuff and then get some ordinary clear nail varnish and drop fill it till you have the required amount to level and smooth it down and then with some very fine wet/dry paper smooth down and polish, hope this helps.
  22. The reason that it works and it's exactly the way I do it is because when you heat the fret this expands and pushes the slot making it ever so slightly larger and when the fret sort of cools down the wood stays there but retracts slower than the fret and this makes it pull out without too many problems. The real hardest part is getting the fret nippers under the slot and I have at times gently tapped a stanley knife blade between the fret and fretboard and it's made a gap so I can just get the nippers under. when I have done this I then walk the nippers along the fret gently squeezing until it pops out, overall its still a tricky job without damaging the fretboard.
  23. That Brunner neck jig is awesomme!!!!! anybody here going to make one ? sure would like to see some build log of this as its kinda sketchy in my head......
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