stiggz

Wow, I didn't know there was so many of you guys doing the CNC thing. Mine is an MDF unit that uses skate bearings and aluminum right angle for the linear bearings. I'm using 269oz-in steppers and they seem to work well with the aluminium and delrin I've been machining. The bed is 600 x 900mm and has about 150mm of Z travel. At the moment the machine is in pieces as i have moved house but will be back up and running in no time. MiKro: any chance you could re-upload that LP surface? the link appears to be dead. thanks luke

wow, i love it wanna put up a desktop sized image? also happy easter from oz

love the headstock man, very nice

hey dude, looks good, really good, i have done a couple of swirls myself i must say this makes mine look bad well done a few questions though, is that a white base? did you then swirl black and white or just the black? also what paint and clear coat did you use? cheers luke

mate that guitar is awesome. first pics i though to myself that looks like ****, but you have really made it look great i love the knobs and the headstock great work GOTM this and you have my vote

+1 scarf joints are made of fail i do mine with an edge guide on the router. I dont feel I have enough control with the router in the table as I cant see what its cutting

dude there are no shoes in this set..... whats going on man?

hey there i have done 2 swirls with success and basically you have to use enamel paints, i tried with automotive acrylic but it did some funky **** on the top of the water

does it really matter how thick they are? one could assume they are the same thickness or maybe there could be a narrow few in the middle? who knows for my neck through bass i did a 5 peice laminate of tazzy blackwood and QLD maple the 3 inner laminates were 1/2" and god knows what the outside ones were, thickness? how thick is ur guitar/bass gonna be? answered ur own question there *edit, who really gives an airborne fornication what gibson did, if you are building a guitar you are building it for yourself not a gibson customer

that inlay is so freakin awesome! kudos to you!

good work on the neck and welcome to PG

nah thats cool man, i feel honoured if people think somthing i say is worthwhile, it doesnt happen very often :D

its a matter of personal preference, if you're a fan of the everlasting eternaly shiney guitar then either a polyurethane (2 part) or automotive acrylic would do nicely. If you want somthing thats gonna wear with age crack a bit n yellow like buggery then nitro is the go. with tung oil it is possible to create a glass like finish, but i have only ever used it when i want the pores of the grain to come through. I like the feel of it, but i also like the feel of nitro on a neck all up to you dude take it easy luke oh make sure you use polymerised tung oil

i dont know what people claim is wrong with tung oil? its friggin awesome stuff and u can use it over stain, no worries just brush the first coat on rather than rub it on, and you are laughing i did that on my through neck bass with about 20+ coats i have a mirror finish and its durable like a mofo

surface prep on the test peices? although a few test peices i did were just bare wood..... maybe the paint is just crap, spend 3 bucks or so and try some tamia (sp?) model paint, that goes alright if that doesnt work i dunno what will

either you are more of a perfectionist than anyone i have met or there is a problem and old mate is quite possibly correct, your pollishing compound may be coarser than 12,000 grit, i dont know too much about the products you are using, but in my experience (somewhat limited at that) the compound should break down and get finer and finer till the is nothing but a freakin good shine, thats how the sruff that i cut'n'polished my car with does failing that some of this should to the trick

nah im not reinventing myself im still the same person, the same arsehattery and stupidity will still come from me, but it will just go by a different name, that and all of my other forum names are stiggz as well when in the realworld (not teh intahweb) i hardly respond to 'luke' heck even my mum calls me stiggz

hey guys i have now changed my name from that horrible question of where the meat was to my nickname and the name most people call me by /introduce me to people; " stiggz" but yeah i thought i would let ya'll in on the change, so you guys dont wonder "who the hell is this clown?" take it easy luke

i did mine with model enamel paint, but you have to go over this with an enamel, you should use a caylised enamel because it will be water white (ie no yellow tint) and will dry fairly hard (compared to air drying enamel) either that or use automotive acrylic and clear with a normal automotive clearcoat

i did one on an rg i was refinishing, still havent completely finished that one there is an old thread on it somwhere here easiest way i have found is have the paint on the waters surface and push it through, then clear paint away with newspaper and remove guitar, but make sure the guitar is very well sealed i mean VERY well sealed ie drip wax/push blutac into all screw holes and make sure your base coat is thick as if ya dont clear the paint away when ya pull it out it adds another layer to it and gets more complex, which look a bit crap ill dig up my thread with pics of said rg in it http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...63&hl=swirl there ya go edited for spelling

haha dont be so sure, motospray (you US guy probably wont have this) quick strip will take 2 pack off i stripped my celica with that **** and there was 3 layers of what appeared to be 2 pack, a coat of isolator then 2 coats of enamel, and it took all of this off with 2 applications of this ****, its a thick as gooey substance and good god it smells strong, its like sniffing acetone but it smells worse and eats through just about every form of "chemically resistant" gloves just going to offer my opinion now guys after having done 3 guitars in rattle cans and 1 in polymersied tounge oil, i will say that the tounge oil has been by far the most durable, but was a kent of a job to do 20+ coats, the first rattle can job was crap the second a bit better, and the third was by far the best, the first one i used uncatylised enamel absolute crap that was, the second and third i used urethane in a can, second was crap cos i did it in summer the third came out very nice after rebuilding and repainting my celica i have bought a spray gun (only a 90 AUD grav HVLP) and i cannot fault it, and the finish if poorly sprayed is about par with a good rattle can job, but IMHO you should buy a compressor and gun and go from there, bit of extra out lay, but with the compressor you can then use a rattle gun (i have a nice 900ftlb one:D) diegrinder and other really handy tools or just use it for its air squirting abilities for cleaning up my 2c cheers luke

hi there i saw the carve from the top before you started finishing it and i thought meh it could be alright, then you posted that photo where you can see the whole carve, and farq me dead that looks good spend the little extra dosh on a compressor and a gun, you wont regret it

wow dude thats awesome, i am surprised that you didn WOD it after somone spotted an "imperfecction" pics better be comming, i didnt pull my head out from under the bonnet for no reason! *hits self for doing engine conversion*

drill the holes out a little bigger, get some dowel glue in, and re drill,

i have used it in necks, as laminates, quite stiff, if ya can get a nicely figured peice with a bit of fidling around with stains you can make it look alot like koa