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doug

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doug last won the day on February 7 2013

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About doug

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    GOTM Oct 05, Oct 06

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  • Location
    Williamson, NY
  • Interests
    Guitar necks!!
  1. LOL... I didn't actually give it more than a quick glance... Photoshop makes a lot more sense.
  2. Ok, so a lot of us know how much work making a neck like that is, plus all the other custom doo dads. It's hard to imagine going through all that only to make it look like another strat...
  3. I'm of the opinion just about any wood can be used for a neck... However, it's not just the species you need to be concerned with, it's the chunk of lumber itself. In other words, one piece of maple may be fine for a neck, yet another might not for numerous reasons, which I'm sure you're already familiar with. Santos rosewood can make a very nice neck, however keep an eye out for signs of it twisting. I've used lots of it, and this particular wood can be very testy. It's a sin to toss big beautiful pieces into the burn pile, yet sometimes it's prudent. I use pau ferro as the default fing
  4. You need to find a way to sand the glue faces parallel especially if you're planning to layer like the neck in the picture.
  5. Belt sander is good. Just use the right kind of belt and score a nice line with a scribe so you know where to stop.
  6. I've used table saw with soft metal carbide blade and removed just a little at a time from the plate side. Worked fine, but sort of dangerous. I'm fortunate enough to have a friend with a fancy machine shop and he had one of his people mill another block for me too. I'm like a bull in a china shop with a file so I'd ruled it out... LOL
  7. jessejames... glad you have this worked out. I hadn't had a chance to read this thread until now, but your solution is good IMHO. Especially since it worked! I didn't catch what bridge you were going to use, however with the heel being at 2-3/16" wide your back into the realm of "normal". It's actually a shame that a vendor would supply a template like that to an unsuspecting customer. I've had many customers over the years send me templates (thinking it would help) that were complete garbage. What pains me, it that they actually paid money for them! You were fortunate to have noticed the d
  8. A kit can be a good place to start. You can learn a lot that way, and not worry about the pieces fitting (for the most part). poptartpower is spot on with respects body/neck compatibility. I make a ton of necks for Warmoth, USA, and Carvin bodies. Those are consistent. The rest in my opinion... is anybodies guess. Because of that I've made it mandatory customers to send their body to me so I can verify the geometry before making a neck for it. Have fun :o)
  9. That's pretty much it... However you should at least clamp the neck solidly in place then check bridge height again. Believe it or not, that last little bit of forced settling can make or break your ideal angle. Much easier dry than with sticky goo all over it...:o)
  10. Sometimes we all do stuff that makes us wonder what we were thinking... :o) Don't beat yourself up too much, wood grows on trees... Not sure what your process is for constructing a neck, but if that had happened to me I would cut the neck off at the scarf and add a new headstock. Oh yeah, a big pain for sure. My jigs are set up for an unshaped neck so for me it means this has to be done manually. The cupping concerns me though. With all reasons why that can happen maybe you should toss that one and start again before you go too much further. If it's bolt on then if it goes all squirre
  11. Go to my web site and the How To page... once you see how it's done, you'll understand fully. Yes, the heel, and it's dimensions are quite different than a bolt on neck. There's about 2" of heel beyond the last fret and the heel is about 2" tall. Well, that's what size they are when I ship them out to a customer. Trimming is involved to create the exact dimensional needs for the specific instrument. -Doug
  12. NoQuattro- In response to your initial question, the heel of a set neck should go into the body at least as far as the back of the neck pickup cavity. Many builders including myself don't even have that bit of body sticking out to form a neck pocket like a typical bolt on body does. As long as the depth of the set neck heel is adequate, and the fit is tight, there's ample surface area for glue. As for the bolt on neck, provided the neck pocket is is again tight, it should work just fine. The idea here is to grab as much of the heel wood with glue as possible. Bolts going into a bolt on nec
  13. And there you have it... Wood's wood... the saw tells all. :o)
  14. WezV nailed it... woodworking 101 - Counteracting wood movement. The addition of 2 or 3 thin layers of another, maybe harder, wood really increases the neck's longitudinal strength. Actually I think there is some truth to the idea of a board resisting bending force more or less depending on the direction of the grain in relation to the force applied. Not all woods seem to follow that rule of thumb though, but the softer ones like mahogany, walnut, or poplar etc. do. Tighter grained woods (small growth rings) like bloodwood, bubinga and older growth maple varieties, don't have much appreci
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