doug

We know the distance from the nut to bridge (25.5"). That is a fixed point. Now you have to determine the new distance from the nut to the end of the existing neck pocket. Once you have identified this distance, you know how much neck shaft you can have. Knowing the neck shaft length is key to knowing how long of a fingerboard you can have. It's all related. Take your new maximum neck shaft length and compare that to your target scale. This is what will give you the number of frets you'll end up with. I make these conversions a lot, and it's all relatively simple when you get right down to it. Forget the notion of how many frets you want the replacement neck to have, because the maximum length of the new neck shaft will tell you that. Hope that helps... -Doug

Ash has very big grain openings, and dye will run down inside. Also, the softer part of the board sop it up like a sponge. The best thing to to is use a cloth that is as a dry as possible to keep excess from soaking in. It might require several more treatments, but it won't grab as much. Remember dye will only get as dark as your mixture intensity. -Doug

Dye on woods such as ash can be applied via spray gun with excellent results. You can precisely control the amount applied to the surface and blotches are eliminated. For wiping, if the surface is wet when you start, the results may be a more even (less blotches) coloration. Blotching can also be mitigated if multiple applications are used. However, be sure prior applications are completely dry. I always enjoy the "tung oil" debate.... After 30 years experience with it myself, it's good to hear the perspective others share. :o) FWIW- My preference for durability are tung oil blends. Keep in mind that tung oils in general are intended to soak into the wood fibers and harden within. In order to develop its surface resilience the fibers must remain exposed to accept it.

That aluminum thing is cool. In my situation it is not the best option. I make so many different neck sizes and scales that the method I've used for years has proven itself. Fretting in the end has been the process of choice. I always shape the perimeter of the neck and rough contour the back without fingerboard attached. Then taper the slotted fingerboard. After adding the truss rod it's onto the jig and glued up. Honestly, I don't understand the fingerboard cupping comment either... I've made many hundreds of necks and can't recall it being a problem. -Doug

I use all the same tools too without issues. Bend them properly though because they are not very forgiving... Yeah, it takes a while longer to work them too.

I always glue the fingerboard prior to leveling and fretting too. Having a nice level surface to press the frets into sure beats trying to figure out a jig to clamp an pre-fretted fingerboard down without touching the frets... I use a gluing fixture that pre-stresses the neck too eliminating the backbow effect often associated with glue and or fretting. Ultimately it's whatever works for you... every craftsman has their own time tested technique for just about everything. -Doug

Oh, okay. I thought maybe... 3/8" should be plenty for the 'fingerboard'. If I had to make a neck like you are, I would only rout up to the normal sort of point near the headstock. If you plan and measure accurately, drilling into the channel for your adjusting nut from the top side of the headstock should work out fine. -Doug

The only question is, how do you plan to rout and insert the truss rod if the neck is "one piece"? From the back, then fill it in? I know there are several methods people use to construct their necks, but in our shop we attach the fingerboard to the neck shaft which effectively 'covers' the truss rod channel. Of course, by using this method then neck is no longer one piece. Hence, I am curious about your method. Because we don't make one piece necks here (typically) I reserved my comment strictly to the truss rod and related dimensions. Anyway, take an average neck thickness of about 7/8" or in the .800" range around the first fret. Typically we make our fingerboards slightly thick or a heavy 1/4" - 5/16" to start. So let's review the math: LMI style dual action truss rod for reference 1/4" fingerboard + 5/8" thick neck shaft (I'm rounding for this conversation) t-rod channel - 3/8" deep. (don't forget, you may need to go a little deeper than that around the adjusting nut to give it clearance) That leaves roughly about 1/4" under the truss rod (between the active rod and your hand) You're using a 1-1/2" thick piece? You have plenty of thickness then. Hope this helps -Doug

I route the binding channel immediately after shaping the body perimeter, or immediately after carving the top... Of course, most of us with 'experience' have shot ourselves in the foot at one time or another... Look at the bright side, you didn't spend 40 hours building an expensive piece of commissioned furniture and have to start over... :o) -Doug

I gotta jump in here since it's a troubling subject to me as well... I bought 2 chinese made end cutters from a local lumber store several years ago. Like the others here I ground the end flush on a water wheel. I bet I've made 500+ necks with them including stainless (subject to follow), and finally the rubber stuff on the handles gave in. Every now and then I would just touch up the end, because they do get dinged up a bit from use. Being tired of no rubber on the handles, I order an LMI cutter (2 months ago) to see how they are. Did one fret job with them... after that, they looked worse than my old one!! LMI responded that they have been having issues getting suitable cutters and just gave me a refund. They told me Channel Lock was supplying the cutters. I went and got a can of Plastidip and recoated the handles on my old cutter... It's like new again! Right now, I still have one more unopened end cutter (thank god) I'll save for when this old on gives up. It'd be great to know where to get real good long handle cutters for the stainless work. I have so far purchased 3 and all of them died almost immediately. They were all common brand names too. Once again, I revert back to my $5.99 cutter. -Doug

I had several customers get walnut necks. Though it's not real common, those who do have said they liked it. Just don't use the sap wood. Walnut is very strong. You could try one of the exotic varieties like Peruvian. A little denser yet still just as light weight. Even better that you're laminating... -Doug

A neck with more space near the last fret than the nut is a common request, especially with bigger necks like for bass or 8 string guitar. I've seen several Gibson guitars this way too like the LP Junior. Personally I prefer that taper too. The instrument pictured may have been designed that way, yet it does look like a bit too much space at the last fret. Agreed. Once people finally break away from that 'Strat neck' frame of reference a whole new world of options are manifest including more favorable spacing at the last fret... -Doug

I have had several customers order poplar necks, and a couple of them over and over. There must be some reason for it I'd say. It''s not bad looking either if the right stock is chosen. -Doug

Your's was a cool neck too! I just went back and looked at the pictures... -Doug

Thanks.

Cool. Yeah, I read that too... I simply wonder what it looked or felt like on the neck/frets from someone who bought one.

Hey folks... since we're on the subject of Warmoth... I've been told they seal the whole neck. Do they seal everything including the fingerboard and frets too? Well, what I mean is do you think they seal the neck after they fret it? Just curious really, and I figure those of you who buy Warmoth necks might know. I've had several customers send me their Warmoth bodies to make a neck for, but I've never actually seen a Warmoth neck. It's just something I've wondered about now and then. -Doug

Bark inclusions are nature's gift to guitar builders! Fill with clear epoxy. The fill will be stronger than the limba.

They need to be installed sideways so they can grip in two places along the shaft. The peg holes must be reamed to fit the finished taper of the peg. You will have to use that peg shaper tool to match the reamer taper. Just like on a violin, the pegs get loosened a bit for tuning then pushed in to keep them there. Not sure why you want avoid modern the technology new tuners offer. It certainly is a time tested method so there's no reason to doubt it will work.

Blocking the bridge is really key. Put something stiff like an eraser under the adjuster edge of the bridge to hold it in position. Then block the underside so it can't move up (like for a dive). Tighten the springs some. Add your strings and TUNE. Be sure to stretch them some too or you'll drive yourself to the nut farm trying to figure out what's going on as they stretch themselves. Play it for a bit too, then retune. Once in tune remove the block under the adjusters. If your springs are putting more pull than the strings are, then underside blocking should fall out too. Now the trem is floating. Use the SPRINGS to adjust back to pitch.

Oops, sorry. I forgot you needed the slotting done. Hands down the nicest boards come from Gilmer. You're building a whole guitar so $33 shipping is almost insignificant in the over all picture. LMI will treat you right and give you the board you're asking for. African black wood looks fantastic and is very black. It seems to be more stable too. Since the fingerboard is so important to you, don't buy it from Stewmac... Oh, Exotic woods may do some slotting. I've had wood from there, and some of my NJ customers have gone there to get stock. Like my shop, things at Exotic Woods are not very formal. Some people are bothered by that so I thought I'd mention it. The reality of it is "fingerboards" from the better suppliers will be close or even fully quartered. You're obsession with perfectly quartered ebony is limiting your options. At some point you might have to consider if it's worth it or not. -Doug

First... what kind of clear is it? Then, is your body dyed or painted? The answer to these is important. In either situation it's best to NOT sand all the way to the wood. If you plan to sand all the finish off and start over it would be fine, but it doesn't sound like that's what you want to do. Just sand the dust out and be sure not to get down to the wood. If you have a piece of some junk in the clear and want to remove it, carefully pick it out with an exacto knife. Drop fill the spot before spraying any more finish. -Doug

Use a detail gun with and spray a dye solution. This will remove the uneven 'stain' problem altogether. Experiment with alcohol or water as the medium to see which reacts better with the birch. After adding the dye be careful not to handle the surface and avoid any wiping motion. If you feel compelled to 'wipe' or physically handle the surface, wipe it with a dry cloth to remove the surface residue. From there do not set it on a surface that would get it dirty. In the even that the body becomes contaminated you may be forced to wipe it down with your medium (alcohol or water) and let it dry. Unfortunately if you do this you will most likely introduce the unevenness you're trying to avoid. Dying is a whole process in itself, so this was only a brief overview... experimenting is VERY VERY important. The results are worth it. Birch is stronger and harder than mahogany or walnut. From that respect it's good enough for a neck. Like someone else mentioned it is sort of 'bendy' more so than maple. In a stress test maple might break before birch, yet birch is harder to sand or shape. Interesting stuff. I've used it for cabinetry and some furniture over the years and it's a 'relief' to go back to working maple... As hard as maple seems to be, it doesn't dull tools as much.

Can you... yes. Would you really want to.... ???

There's a lot of discussion about that subject on this forum in case you decide to try again. For years I introduce forward bow (prestress) while attaching the fingerboard. It's an old fashioned technique to compensate for this expected behavior of wood and a surefire way to end up with a straight neck every time. I take no chances... That heating process should get your prized neck back in order though. -Doug