Lee_

Thanks for the info. I checked their inventory and there wasn't much to show, but I'll keep an eye open. I would love to get my hands on a top like that to match the neck blank I already have. No problem Peter, You should probably go ahead and email Rene. He's a nice fellow, and I believe he has much more in his stock then he lists. Cleaned, planed and scraped the body blank flat, only to draw the outline 2mm off center.. sanded the entire thing and drew it on again, correctly this time. Free handed the chambers. The bottom has three separate chambers so that I could shield the electronics. You can see the fatter bit for the bellycut at the top bout. Drilled 10mm holes at the tight corners Than played a little "connect the dots" with the jigsaw Cut the outline I'll glue the maple top on before doing any more work on the cedar, as it isn't strong enough in this relatively thin form to deal with the forces a router would introduce. The only thing I must do before that is carving the bellycut's inner slope, I'll use a knife for that.

It's been a busy week, but I had some time to work today. I thicknessed the fretboard using the router, down to 1/4". Many shallow careful passes, slightly overlapping. Since I'm thicknessing the neck blank the same way, I cut it to shape to save myself some routing. Down to 3/4" On to the body: The body core will be Red Cedar. It's a great tone wood IMO, very light weight and resonant. The only downside is that it's extremely soft, looking at it for too long will end up with a dent. However, since it's sandwiched between maple top and back, that's not a problem. I've got some that really matches the color of the roasted maple: Though it's not quite wide enough to fit the entire body, so I'll add a center block from lighter quartersawn cedar. Cut: Planed: Arranged: And glued:

Thanks guys, I sure hope it will be fun, it's been great so far.. I bought the maple from "Hades Roasted Maple". It's some great looking wood, the only thing that I had to adjust to is the "roasted" smell.. couldn't realize how was my router burning the neck blank with my careful feed rate.. not to mention hand sanding.. than it came to me that's just how it smells The bigsby really is a hefty chunk of aluminium. I hope it will all come together in the end.

(almost) Finished the neck template today, there's a little router bite at the headstock that needs filling and sanding. Rough cut with a jigsaw, than cut the straight line using a router and a straight edge. The headstock was shaped using rasps, files, a scraper and sandpaper. The neck will have 22 frets, and 5mm abalone dots A little mock-up with the pickguard Just to show the way the pickguard goes along with the Bigsby Now that I'm done with making templates, it's time to make some more expansive sawdust.

Hello everybody, Haven't built a single guitar for the last 7 years.. Suddenly I have a little more time on my hands, and this is what happens. I have been posting the build process on another board, but I figured I'll post it here for old times sake. So this one will be a thinline-esque, bookmatched roasted flamed maple top and back, roasted birdseye maple neck and fretboard, Kinman Bridge-Blaster and P90, Graphtech Ghost tunomatic coupled with a Bigsby B16 tailpiece and Hipshot locking tuners. I'm a bit rusty, short in workspace (my balcony will have to do) and in power tools, so this isn't going to be the fastest build ever.. Anyway, here we go: The maple (God bless Canada) Free-hand design on a piece of plywood. It's not a one-for-one telecaster, it's ever so slightly rounder in the lower bout, and the neck joint is obviously different. F-hole design I transferred the f-hole's shape to a thicker piece of MDF, did some final shaping, then routed it to the body template (didn't take pictures of the template making, but it's pretty straight forward) using a 3/8" ball bearing bit, and finishing it off with a 1/4" bit, with the shank riding the MDF as a guide. Same thing for the second f-hole Cut and shaped the pickguard from some creme plastic (I know it seems early for this step, but I wanted to make sure the ideas that seem great in my twisted mind work in reality) And here it is with a sketch of the layout. The f-hole will go through the pickguard. I like it.

I didn't have much time for building guitars or hanging around the forums for the last 12 months or so, but I did manage to complete this bass for my own enjoiment. So here goes: 4 string headless bass Black Korina and Purpleheart body Spalted Maple top 3 pc Maple/Purpleheart neck Birdseye Maple fretboard 24 frets Bartolini 9J1 set and active preamp ETS headless system (the headpiece is a custom design) Piezo equiped saddles I really like this one, it's not too heavy nor too light, and has a vast range of sounds from super tight glassy piezo tones to ultra deep lows and punchy slap tone. BTW, if you play distorted bass you just owe yourself a good piezo system, it's super clear and cuts through anything.

I'm in freakin' tears from laughing so hard (iron sausage )

A simpler, more traditional design than my other guitars. Mahogany body with a maple stripe Three pieces maple neck Cocobolo fretboard 24 jumbo frets Paua abalone dot inlay Gotoh chrome hardware String thru body DiMarzio Steve's Special in the bridge DiMarzio Air Norton in the neck Vol. Tone, 3-way PU selector Graphtech Tremnut

This is the fourth guitar me and my friend have finished, and our first GOTM entry. This is the revised version of our last design, the Serpentine. It has a bigger body, a different headstock, and better upper register accesability. Specs: Neck thru maple neck Black Limba body wings Ebony fretboard Mop diamond inlays Schaller floyd Grover locking mini Rotomatics Dimarzio FRED in the bridge position Dimarzio PAF Joe in the neck position Dunlop straplocks Controls: volume, PU selector, tone, Varitone, series/parallel for each pickup, booster on/off. Oil finish This one was made for the guitar player in my band. BTW, This design is currently avialable through the Moser custom shop.

I'd like to wire a guitar with a 3 way pickup selector so that the first position will be bridge only, second position both pickups through a blend pot, and third position neck only. Got any ideas?

I'm sorry if this has been answerd before, but the search didn't come up with anything usefull. I know an oz is 28 grams, but how many pieces of shell, let's say 1.5 mm thick., are there in an oz? Thanks

Threre is no problam at all. The nut is a Graphtech Trem-Nut and it stays in tune no matter what.

Well, the guitar was done about a month ago but I didn't think the oil cured hard enough untill yesterday. So I gave it the last layer of wax and done a photoshot. The camera used is an Olympos C-750 ultra zoom. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010008.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010006.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010003.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010039.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010037.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010036.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010034.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010033.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010032.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010031.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010029.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010028.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010027.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010025.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010024.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010021.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010020.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010019.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010018.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010017.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010016.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010014.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010013.jpg Sorry about the tons of pics, but I just got a new camera As for sound, It sounds like nothing else I've ever heard. Korina is nothing like mahogany judging by this guitar. It has tons of low mids but the high notes are more crystal like compared to all mahogany guitars. Distorted it is just SICK, while clean it needs some mid cut to sound prefect. Luckily I changed the booster to a varitone so thats not a problem. Best pulm muting I've ever heard and the Kahler is just great. The other twisted sister is currently on hold, bigger things to do.

That's a beautiful shade of blue. And I like the headstock.

Glued the inlay in place and started sanding them. Gave the body some bevels. I think the kahler looks prefect on this guitar. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8250033.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8250036.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8250037.jpg And that's the soon to be happy owner, my little brother, Ron. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8250039.jpg

If you use oak for the neck you'll have to finish it with a thick coat of poly or something. you can't use oil or other thin finishes because of the grain.

And he ships overseas for a very good price

Of course there are many ways to build a neck, so you don't have to stick to the one in the tutorial. I rough shape the neck using a chisel and then I'm using a file to get it to shape.

I could swear that I've already replied. Anyway, the inlay material is paua abalone. All of the guitar will be oil finished so none of that beautiful figure will be covered. Thanks for the tip about the pic Tommy.

The neck is done, and so are the inlays. Not the cleanest inlay ever, but nothing that a little bit of epoxy could'nt fix. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8200019.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8200020.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8200018.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8200021.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8220024.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8220033.jpg Thanks for all the good advice.

i am sorry,but if the 24th fret is where you say it is you will never get your hand in there. ← I don't think I'll have a problem. On my other guitar the body meets the neck at the 22 fret and I have no access problem.

The specs on the korina one are as following: neck-thru construction black korina neck and body ebony fretboard 24.75" scale 24 frets Kahler bridge dual Seymour Duncan alnico II pro humbuckers Grover locking tuners master volume and master tone pickup selector splits for both pickups push/pull pot that activates a booster and sets it's gain Graphtec nut The mahogany one is suposed to get sold, but I just might keep it for myself and then I will slap a Kahler and a couple of bill lawrance L500s on her. There will be no fret access problem as the 24 is right in the middle of the little hole. For the headstock I'm going for a 3x3, althogh that's not set in stone yet. I had to cut the corners of the Kahler route using a knife because the only following router bit I have is 1/2".

Thanks, I have edited it while you were posting.

Two more on their way, with another two already orderd. All is well. One has black korina neck and body and the other one one is made of a single piece of mahogany. 1 2 3 4

Finished this guitar a few weeks ago, but didn't have a camera until yesterday. Maple neck, spalted Imbuya body, ebony fretboard, Grover machines, Schaller bridge and a Dimarzio super distortion. More to come when I finish my exams.