Supernova9

So glue the two halves of top together (making sure flames line up), thickness that, then glue that to the body, and cut to size?

Hi all, After looking through the search function, and having the only interesting thing I found being the whole Litchfield saga (now I understand all the aggro), I still can't find the answer I need. I'm building a Tele, Ash body with Flame Maple top. The body has been cut to shape/thickness/chambered and everything, and I've just obtained myself a top. I've bookmatched it, got the centre join down pat, and cut the shape to within 1/8" of final size. However, it's 3/8" thick, but I'm going to thickness it to 1/4" (fits in nicer with my thinline design). Now my question is - do I thickness it first, making sure both pieces are identical before gluing to the body, or do I glue it down then thickness? I'm just wondering which would be easier. (To thickness it I've built Setch's by now legendary router thicknessing jig), and I'm just curious about what you guys would recommend to be the easiest option? Cheers.

That's cool. Actually, I was just looking at the wood with my template, and if I make it one way round then it falls on a pick-up spot, and it'll be routed out. Much obliged.

I've searched the forum, and I can find a thread that tells me knots in necks are bad, but what about body blanks? I have this one knot in the piece of ash I have that's pretty much right in the centre. If it is an issue/problem, what's the best way to solve it, drill it out and fill the hole with a dowel/epoxy & dust?

It wouldn't be that hard to rewire, you'd learn something new, isn't that worth it? Anyways, my perspective - If ya do it and you don't use it, no big. If ya do it and you use it, bonus. If ya don't do it and you don't use it, again you'll never know, but if you would have used it, you'll have lost out. Just my $.02

Typically a 3/4" maple top, with a 1/2" depth of carve.

Have a look for things like these For accurate dimensions, they're your only real choice if you're looking to copy. Either that or getting the actual guitar you intend to build and measure that, if you can find one somewhere.

Neck Blanks or Body Blanks? If you're looking at PRS/Les Pauls, body blanks are all normally standard sizes, and usually mahogany. Then there's the top, which is predominantly maple, and a 3/4" top is used normally with a 1/2" depth of carve. I'd seriously suggest investing in some guitar plans/books if you're wondering about dimensions, they'll help no end, and you can find them cheap on ebay.

Read it the other day, those things look gorgeous, especially the tricone. They sound awesome too. I'm no resonator coinnoseour, but those give me GAS ← TBH, I prefer the single cone. Watch this space for a couple of projects that I'm helping him with. We've been planning something very special over a couple of beers. I can guaranty that no-one will have seen anything like it ← The tricone got the geek in me going - the styling looks like one of the old transformers logos.

Read it the other day, those things look gorgeous, especially the tricone. They sound awesome too. I'm no resonator coinnoseour, but those give me GAS

Amazon.Com? Wouldn't that be the easiest way to do it?

It's a mirror image, yes. Everything changes, nut slots, bridge orientation etc.

Denatured alcohol - or if you're in UK, Methylated Spirits, is Ethanol (Alcohol as we know it), with a bit of methanol (a very similar chemical) added to it. The purple/blue colour you are talking about is a dye that's added to the mix to indicate that it's not safe to drink. You have the right chemical, but it's dyed. You need to find the same stuff without that safety dye. Whereabouts in the world are you?

When I did the handle on mine I just used a piece of plastic pipe/rod about 1" diameter, fits the curve pretty nice. Just be careful and you won't go into it too far. For the back, standard woodfiller would do it, available at pretty much every hardware store.

Also try Touchstone Tonewoods or David Dykes

that might be an idea, they might be me some of it for my birthday if i ask, a lot of it was cheaper than i expected, Ebony fingerboard, pre slotted for example, £13, classic :D Just make sure if you're getting a pre-slotted board that it's for the correct scale length (my first purchase was such a rush I ended up with a 25.5" board for a les paul. Whoops!)

Touchstone Tonewoods - www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk Craft-Supplies - www.craft-supplies.co.uk (If you go to this site, look at the SoundWood Catalogue, it's where the luthiery stuff is). If you're SW England (Devon/Bristol way?), I'm not thinking Touchstone are very close to you to be honest, they're in Reigate, which is outskirts of London. Craft Supplies are cheaper than David Dyke and Touchstone (especially if it comes to body blanks) Hit your parents up for cash, this one's educational

If you don't want to shell out for a maple top (Even though Craft Supplies can get ya one for around £20), then you could modify your design slight and make it an LP Special, they didn't use a maple cap, just solid mahogany. As said earlier, mahogany can also be used for the neck, and ebony fingerboards can be had from Touchstone Tonewoods for less than £6 each, so we're not talking major money for those. Manufactured boards are only really good for templates when it comes to guitars.