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Supernova9

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Posts posted by Supernova9

  1. If you've paid attention to Huff's posts, you'd see a pattern. He constantly drones on about how you can't tell what the woo/instrument will really sound like until it's done because if subtle, munir variations which occur within two cuts of wood from the same tree. Armed with this level of dismissal, you can't make ANY generalization about ANY species of wood EVER!!!!!! You'll never know what it will sound like, so don't ever bother trying. If the pickup was wound in a dry climate, it might make tit sound different than one wound in high humidity. Don't try, don't bother, don't investigate, don't take your own experiences into account, don't take anyone elses experiences into account (except for his, of course), and jsut admit that nobody will ever have even an educated guess about the likely tonal result.

    OF course, we have the accumulated knowledge of hundreds of years of acoustic lutherie and 60 years of electric lutherie to argue with him, but it doesn't matter because they're all wrong.

    So.

    Yes, while it is correct that wood will vary depending on where it's grown, the exact sub-species, and a hundred other variables, you can make generalizations about the tone it will bring.

    What I've found is that there seems to be a direct correlation between the density of the wood and the tone. The more harder the wood, the brighter it seems to be. Likewise with softer woods being more warm. Smoothness of grain seems to be a good indicator as well, but it's not as good an indicator.

    And to answer your question about walnut: American black walnut makes a fantastic sounding guitar. It's a bonus that it's a dream to work with, and looks great regardless of what you do to it.

    Very provocative response, totally unnecessary and if you disagree with someone's viewpoints they are better ways to do it in order to stop it turning into a flamefest. I think you're looking for an argument. Put down the keyboard and take your stress out elsewhere.

  2. If I had to pick one topic that stands out for me, both in terms of how well the build is documented, how good a tutorial it is for newer builders, plus how well the end product turned out, my winner would be the first guitar that toddler68 posted. The thread is here:

    http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=10213&st=0

    Have a read and see what went on in that build - it was one of the first laminate neck construction builds I'd seen on here, and such class too!

  3. These birdseye Bocote boards are headed out to Federico in Italy - I am fairly sure he is NOT planning on throwing these on a Corvus.... :D

    This is some of the coolest Bocote I've ever worked with - I picked up these and some pretty wild-grained planks that I resawed for drop tops from West Penn Hardwoods on a recent jaunt to upstate NY.

    Federico1.jpg

    Federico2.jpg

    Wow, those are actually amazing!! Do you have more of that in stock?

  4. I said forget it and called it done and threw it in the bath tub full of steaming hot water. it sat for 18 hours. and I must of changed the water to hot water 3 times to keep it burning hot.

    Yeah, start a new one. And whatever you think you did wrong with that glue joint, do it again. If it lasts through your bathtub soak it must be a pretty good glue joint.

    Just for the record, a bath-tub soak is a terrible way to try and separate a glue joint. You're unlikely to get the joint hot enough, and you'll put way too much moisture into the rest of the wood. Even if you manage to separate the glue joint, chances are that when the neck dries out after sitting in the bath it'll warp.

    Use an iron with steam function on.

  5. I don't mean to be rude, but you've bought some bad wood there. You can see knots in the sapele towards the end of the first piece of wood you've bought - that'll stop you getting the full two outside pieces for the neck first off.

    As for the second set of walnut bits, there's a reason they're on ebay at that price - and I know the seller you got them from, gibson craftwood. They're not an instrument wood seller, they aren't picking wood for guitar building. And those walnut pieces have horrendous knots in them, I don't want to think what that means in terms of grain direction or run-out, but I'd dismiss those out of hand.

    Buying wood from ebay for the first time builder is not something I'd recommend. Go to a reputable dealer, like David Dyke, Touchstone or even Craft Supplies. You might get lucky with those bits of wood, or you might get far into your project just to realise the wood's warped and undone all your hard work. It'll cost you more to buy from the dealers, but that's because you get what you pay for.

  6. I like, the modern twist on a tele is awesome in my opinion :D

    Only thing I'd change about it, is the back of the body, where you've modified the neck pocket to make it easier access, I'd have reshaped it a bit to blend the curve between the body above it and the heel portion beneath it - at the moment it just looks a little too much like it's still a "reshaped square section" rather that flowing as part of the body shape.

    Really really nice burl though, did you get that from Fraser Valley in Canada?

  7. Or you do one pass on the template and then another pass using the body to cut the ridge off. But yeah, I think the major american website does them in 1/4" because he knows most people will be making child templates to use in anger. I prefer it that way - saves me paying extra for shipping when I have 1/2" MDF/ply always laying round.

  8. All the aesthetics aside, I'd never buy this guitar for one major reason - I use my volume and tone knobs while I'm playing. I'd start to hate this design pretty quick after you realise that every time you try a volume swell or similar you'll have to really try hard not to flick the selector switch.

    Blue + Yellow = Error.

    If you changed the pickup covers to gold, and the knob tops to gold, and then painted the guitar solid gold, game on, but until then, I have a feeling this will stay on consignment a while.

  9. That looks awesome - I'm just curious how it works - I mean I assume you'll run the router along the two main side rails to create the width of the pocket, but for the back of the neck pocket, with that piece of aluminium sitting across the rails, won't it stop the router from sliding back as far as you need it to? Will you have to adjust that for the offset of the router bit from the edge of the router base, or am I just easily confused? :D

  10. I applaud Claptonfreaks desire for perfection, and I understand exactly what he is saying, he just wants the damn thing to come out as a perfectly intonatable playable professional instrument, and for him, a laser cut template will help get him there, it ain't no big thang, give the guy some room to breath for chrissakes. B)

    Hell, to be honest about it, I've been building for 13 years now, have made every template I've ever used by hand, drawn out by hand, re-drafted several times by hand, made several of my own custom designs that have been built, and even I am now putting together an order for Ronnie Trigo (GBT.COM).

    It just ain't no big thing in the end lads, you need what you need when you need it. Simple. It's just a template, so help a dude out if you can, that's all he's askin'.

    :D ...Do I REALLY need to 'Go Lennon' on ya tonight? :D

    None of us have a problem with that.....it's that he wants an EXTRA template (or that's how it appears from his posts). He already has one, and wants another one for some reason. That's what I find weird. I totally agree with getting computer cut templates - I get mine made at a custom laser place (www.pololu.com) onto 1/4" plexi.

    Just for the record - what templates are you getting from GBT? and when you get them can you tell me how they shape up? I've heard differing reports on the accuracy/quality of them.

  11. Alternatively, send me your current templates, I'll rout round them for you, you'll end up with exactly the same size as the computer made templates, and I'll only charge you the price of a guitarbuildingtemplates.com set. If you really want to throw your money away, might as well be to me :D

  12. If you can't rout round an existing template and match it perfectly using a bearing-guided router cutter, your final guitar isn't going to match either. At the end of the day you'll have to use that template to make the body shape in wood - why not start with ply and make a template? It's easier and you're less likely to make any slips and lose accuracy.

    This thread makes my brain hurt with its sheer illogical nature.

  13. Ok inspired by this thread I recently stumbled on Radiusing bits. . . this thread is to see who many people would be interested in purchasing similar bits.

    Right the reason I ask this is you or may not know but I am based in Laos in SE Asia - so what you might think - well my local sharpening shop also makes router bits to any design and this being SE Asia things are a good bit cheaper than the rest of the world.

    This thread is to gauge whether firstly if there is suffcient people interested in them and also to check out what kind of money you would want to pay for a bit. Now let me just clarify the money question isn't just to discover how much I can ream out of people! The question is because as yet I haven't asked them for prices so they might turn around and say x amount to which from the replies on this thread I can then say yes or no.

    Ok so the questions -

    Which radius bits would you be interested in - 7 1/2, 9, 10, 12, 15, 17, 20 - or something I've not listed?

    How much would you be willing to pay? $20-$40, $40-$50, $50-$75, $75-$100 - I do not think for one minute they would cost any more than $100 regardless, my estimate would be around the $40 mark (but like I say thats my estimate not their quote!!)

    In terms of the metal used for the bits this is something I need to check but I think it's HSS - but I'd need to check.

    They would be shipped via DHL to anywhere in the world and would obviously be marked as Samples - which they are!

    So let me know and if there is sufficient interest I'll go and visit the shop and get the prices (well I'll probably do this anyway!).

    :D

    I'd be interested. Definitely in a 12", maybe a 7.5" too. And if the bit is good enough, I'd be willing to pay up to $75 if it's HSS, $100 if we're talking Carbide tipped.

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