Jump to content

i-j-c

Established Member
  • Posts

    200
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by i-j-c

  1. People often wonder why..well, why not. Got myself a squier brand new, bright red and decided to make a relic out of it. Process: Body. Sanded areas down to bare wood, left some areas with the paint intact. Painted the whole body as close as I could get to Oly white. Randomly beat it up. Sanded back with 800 - 2500 paper. Used wooly jumper to create the shiny parts again and a slight sheen on body. I used some danish oil on wire wool to make some yellowing of the paint. I wanted the effect of the red showing through on some parts of the body. The bare wood was treated with danish oil and polished up a little. Hardware. Used 800 paper on the saddles to varying degrees from low E to high E. Put in bucket and left outside for a week in the elements. After a week, put the bridge in coffee for 24 hours. Applied same technique to all screws...and the neck plate. Plastics. Sanded back with 1200 paper. Added some dings, took some knurl off the volume knob. Put in bucket of coffe for 48 hours. Wiped clean. Sanded scratchplate back with 2500 paper to get some gloss and put a coat of carnuba on it. Polished it, to give it a sheen. Used T-Cut to shine up areas of hand contact to make really shiny (next to bridge on the edge). Neck. Used a mixture of linseed and danish oil and applied into fingerboard for some time after giving it some abuse with wire wool. The edges of the neck were rounded over then a couple of dings put in.. I have some klusons on order to finish it off... Anyway, here's some pics. Close up of Bridge http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j...ic2/bridge2.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j...lic2/bridge.jpg More pics.. Here it is with my others...these two green ones I made - one last year (there's a post here about it -the pearl green one) and one I made after xmas this year...the one with the stained orange neck - more about that one later.. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/sea4.jpg Rest of pics with the green ones.. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/sea3.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/sea2.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/sea1.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j...2/neckplate.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j...2/headstock.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j...ic2/guitar1.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/ful.jpg Fingerboard pic: http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/neck.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/cu3.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/cu2.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/cu1.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j...elic2/body4.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j...elic2/body3.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j...elic2/body2.jpg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/relic2/body.jpg
  2. Hi...sorry if I may burst any bubbles here...because it uses MM function calls..does not make it macromedia, dreamweaver or otherwise. MM functions are purely Javascript code.. For example, in most of the headings on the website - take the news page..the following code: function MM_reloadPage(init) { //reloads the window if Nav4 resized<br> if (init==true) with (navigator) {if ((appName=="Netscape")&amp;&amp;(parseInt(appVersion)==4)) {<br> document.MM_pgW=innerWidth; document.MM_pgH=innerHeight; onresize=MM_reloadPage; }}<br> else if (innerWidth!=document.MM_pgW || innerHeight!=document.MM_pgH) location.reload();<br> Is simply used to stabalise a page..in some instances to stop it shaking on resize... The site may have used Dreamweaver to design the graphic headers...but there is no way of any reference. The site is simply controlled via javascript referencing CSS (Cascading Style Sheets) templates to get the page layout. It's down to simple html and java code....there are many editors free out there able to do edit this - one has been highlighted above - another is PSPad (www.pspad.com)... In order to edit the content on that site, you will need ftp (or a cpanel) access to the source html files, the css files and image directories.... Just offereing assistance..
  3. OK...I thought I was joking in my earlier comments about how far this will go....but.........it's gone tooooooo far this time.. I caught this on BBC R2 news on my way home tonight: This effectively means...you go into a guitar shop, try out a guitar, and should you dare do what has been done for donkey years...like play Smoke On the Water...the shop is going to get fined.. I'm just waiting for the next news that some passer by heard a band practising in their garage..and recognised the tune...or heard the kid next door practicing in his own home....effectively according to PRS (hmmmm something ironic about that..) that's illegal...and will fine you.. Is it me or has the whole of the music industry completely lost it's marbles...
  4. It's totally ridiculous...whatever next in their repetoire of condemnation..next...they will target those who practice songs in their garage, bedroom, house whatever without licence... I can see egg on face...but what really gets me is the smokescreen they are prepared to use with comments like: I would therefore like the MPA to explain exactly how much of a cut they give the artist...and how many struggling artists do they publish tabs, scores and lyrics for...NONE! They may do so for popular artists...but it is very rarely the artist sits down and writes his score...no someone else does it...and as a result the artists cut from such sales will be miniscule...and since when does such popular music from popular artists depend upon income from music score sales....??? Time for the music industry to wake up and smell the coffee..instead of complaining...join in and grow up - make their own sites and allow subscriptions if they are that concerened... I see much egg on face..and yet another method of alienating the music loving public... You snooze you loose....
  5. Okay...we've all become acustomed to the fall out regarding illegal file and music sharing in recent months... ..but now the MPA (Music Publishers Association) want a slice of the cake too! They are targetting sites like guitar tabs etc...and other sites that provide lyrics...! I have used various guitar tabs sites in the past to download some tabs...but as the tabs say..they are the authors own work - to be honest, I think users of such sites are in all innocence..so this is a heads up to you all.. Here is the BBC News article on the sibject from todays news BBC News
  6. I think it looks awesome and very nicely executed. Remminds me of OCC and their themed choppers..like the one for snap-on - a guitar...well that's a first. Congrats man...tidy work and good thought put into it..
  7. Good on ya Perry for doing tuition..those guys look and sound like they are having a ball.. Seeing the group photo at the end is going to be something...5 guitars in one go for GOTM.. Wish I had the opportunity to have a tutor like that...you don't travel to the UK do you...
  8. ...thanks for the thought anyway...much appreciated Probably seems daft now...but my nominations were (I was beat to this post) (for the two posts of mod) 1. Guitar Guy 1. Slain Angel In no particular order...why? Because they simply do not get themselves involved in arguments..are level headed... Maiden was another choice...but he is definately VIP material in my book!
  9. Fear..it's a terrible thing.. Walking across the street is inherintly dangerous...you can get hit by a car or a bus..look at the stats.. Flying is dangerous, so is travelling on a trains...so is driving your car down the freeway... Eating chicken, eggs, red meat, too much alcohol, milk can be dangerous.. Life has dangers...just don't let them dictate what you do..otherwise you end up living in a cave, becoming a hermit, have no contact with human life...and I suspect even that is dangerous...there's bugs in them there caves...
  10. Very nice work...even more impressive the fact you were only 13 when you started and you are now only 16...wish I could do something like that at that age.. And hey, it does not matter how long it takes...just shows you are not rushing and doing things carefully and with thought instead. Good work...
  11. Stunning...words cannot describe how good that looks (and probably plays and sounds)..I've always wanted a Myka guitar..this is one more reason again..
  12. AUTIOK...I would take your question and make a new post in the tools/shop talk board where it can be answered on it's own.... Steady as she goes..
  13. Hi and welcome. Nice introduction and it sounds like you are going through the process in the right manner..ie reading, reading and asking questions. You'll find a heap of info in this forum to help you build. Just read, use the search function and ask away. There are several good threads on making strats. The only thing I can add if it's of any use is to be patient with your build, don't rush anything...and if you are not sure - ask! If you do things properly and take your time it will be very satisfying. Good luck and keep everyone updated.
  14. OK, well I finished this up last night...well I mean early hours of this morning. I had to finish this again...I had it outside drying...and it suffered bird fallout...and as you know with that...it can etch through anything! Anyway...primer, sky blue, then my own mix of green. A shot of pearl and 20 coats of nitro. This guitar was in a bad way...but it looks (to me anyway) rather nice...and for getting the whole thing for £100...reckon I got me a bargain. Some more pics: Pic Pic Pic Pic Pic
  15. I love Ron Thorn guitars...they are by far the nicest looking guitars I have seen... Thos BE tops look superb...so too the binding. I like the way he does the lower horn cutaway..being recessed in the back so as not to spoil the front.. +1 on docs response...
  16. Hyunsu.. I've been following all your guitars from the beginning..I have to say the speed and quality of your work is stunning to say the least...you are a lesson to us all...great work man. I like that last strat...and without the belly cut looks different.. What I would like to see from you is another strat similar to this last one..but instead of rounding over the edges...put a binding on...I think Fender did (or still do) make a model like that...name escapes me though... Keep up the good work...you are an inspiration.
  17. Hi..yes, you can see some examples of the metallic pen in one of the pics...it ruined the line, no matter how careful I was...you can see I went back over the line on the 'F' of fender with black...but it jsut looked messy... The way I ended up doing it didn't interfere with the line at all, so I still had the crisp outer edge..
  18. Hey..thanks for the comments...appreciated The pearls I used were made by plasti-kote, come in small tubs and you can get various shades..I used white pearl. I think they cost me about £4 from a hardware store called Homebase over here... That shade of green/blue is exactly the colour I wanted. I had it in my mind, but after days of shopping, could not find anything even close...so I used various japlac colours to achieve it. thinned it down to almost water and added pearls. Prior to this I added a sky blue colour (which you can see in the routed areas) - I then shot one coat of my colour without the pearl from my spraygun. I then shot the very thin pearl - about 8 coats to get the shade I wanted. I added two coats of nitro to seal it, gave it a light sand and two further coats....today I added two further coats. I'll give it maybe 8 or so more until I get the level I want....then make it like glass...using NXT. Logo. The original and or custom is solid gold. You can see from the pics what I printed was solid gold...when you rub this over...only the black transfers...and the line is pin sharp. As you can see from the paper I tested painting the inside with gold..but this messed up the line...so I just used my imagination and used the acrylic pencil...which gave an even better see through colour than I expected....plus, it's dead flat and there is no edge mark if I simply cut out the decal. You can also see I changed the Original Contour Body to something of my own... the colour looks even better in natural daylight...I'll keep it posted on progress shots..
  19. Personally, I prefer Myka's single cuts much more than the PRS or Gibson...incidentally, Myka guitars got a menation in last months (UK) Gutarist magazine...
  20. Hi...whilst at my local music store the other month (I was buying a new Marshall and old LP Standard) the owner brings me out this 'Strat' in bits... The body is a mighty Mite, two piece alder - it was split down the join at the back, someone had been attacking it with a router at some point to install humbuckers (and a nasty job they made too) - it was finished in black but was in an awful state. Along with it was a Fender neck, rosewood, 22 fret that had more than it's fair share on dings, but it had new tuners. Along with it came a brand new pickguard (still in the film) which was from a squire strat - in that were brand new pups still in film...the trem had been used on the body, but was not original but in good condition. So, the store owner 'aquired' this, but did not have the time or interest in putting it together...so offered me it for £100...I snapped his hand off.. So got it home stripped it down, removed all nasty laquer, glued body back, filled dings and got it looking nice - can't do much about the nasty router job, but not to worry. Stripped the neck down, removed the frets, radiused and refretted. Whilst sanding the neck down the original logo came off..When I refretted, I spent ages making my own filler to hide the ends of the fret slots to match the rosewood.. So I decided the colour I wanted, which was a kind of Foam green. I could not find anything close so I mixed my own paints using japlac colours and added pearl powder. The Body I primed, then gave it a few coats of a sky blue, then began painting it my colour with my airbush...the stage it's at now it has 4 coats of nitro. Of course it had several rub downs in between paints and nitro coats with 600 wet paper.. Here it is so far: Here is another look: Body 2 The neck. I remember reading some time ago Jehle's post on making logo's on clear film. I tested this on my Inkjet on HP transparrent paper - looked OK, but perhaps the type of film was too thick. SO I then printed the Fender logo to the transparent film in reverse (so the shiny side is up)...I then used this as a form of letraset to rub over the logo - this transferred the black ink, pin sharp to the headstock. I then coloured the inside of the logo with acrylic pencil (a kind of solid guoache) - this left the logo pin sharp.. Here's a few test prints. On a plus side, doing it this way left no water mark or film layer to build up over, so the finish can be thinner. Logo Print Logo 2 test Prints Here is a few photo's of the (nearly finished) neck..it has nitro finish on it.. Neck1 Neck2 Neck3 Neck4 Close up of logo.. Neck5 Neck6 One last shot of the rear neck...I made the custome shop logo in the same manner and filled in with acrylic pencil.. Neck6 To end, I'm going to make a new pickgaurd for it perhaps witha checkerboard pattern, or I may leave the original. Either way, like my other strat I built, it will have chrome pup covers and chrome knobs.. I'm hoping by the weekend to have the reminder of the nitro on the body then give a few days to settle before buffing. I'll keep you posted...
  21. Good luck...look forward to seeing it..
  22. If it might help you..have a look here: http://www.dresslerstencils.com/ShowView/tips_techniques and go to the techniques section (actually they are all listed on that page..)..
  23. You would still have the same problem with laminate - even more so because it's shiny. The over head stuff would cut neater and give a nice line imo! Use double sided sticky if required...or some pritt stick...to keep it down. As an idea..go to a hadware store...look at the stencils on offer for painting on walls...you will see they are very similar to overhead paper.. Just go light with the rattle can...better making lighter coats - which dry quicker and are less prone to bleeding under the stencil..
  24. Just read it again...do you mean a stencil..so you would paint through the words or logo you are printing then laquering it..? If so, the same applies above..just as easy and saves you laminating it..
  25. You'd be better off printing it direct to acetate paper...the clear stuff used for over head projectors.. Pinting it to paper then laminating it will give a stencil three thicknesses as opposed to one...which will take a lot of laquer to blend in..
×
×
  • Create New...