Tony Balls

this may not be the right board for it, but i'll give it a shot.... A buddy of mine in Western Massachusetts has a house that is too small to hold all of his amps, and so he's considering constructing a separate practice space/storage space for them. It'd be a barn-like/garage-like structure. What he's curious about is if the cold weather will be damaging to the amps, or if he would have to keep the room at a regular temperature. I'm tempted to say that it won't matter much, and if anything you might see a shortness of life from the tubes. Anyone agree? Have any input??

So......i'm gonna be putting together a new bass. Jazz bass style, nothing fancy, from Warmoth parts. And i'm considering body woods. My first thought is to go with an Ash body. I've owned plenty of 70's Fender basses, and I like Ash a good deal. Heavy, sounds nice. But i've heard a good deal about the tonal properties of Walnut, and so i'm considering it also. My concern, however, is that it might not be bright enough when I want it to be. I often like a smooth, warm bass tone, but at times I need to go with something sharp and mid-ranged (Think Chris Squire or David William Sims). So, what are your opinions on Walnut bodies compared to Ash?

ahhhh.......thanks for the description. I kept thinking it was standard neck maple, and I was thinking that would be afwully bright for a bass.

This is kind of the second part to my first question regarding the quality and fit of Warmoth's neck's to their bodies. check it here: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...topic=20163&hl= Okay, so first, in general how are Mighty Mite's products? I'm looking for a bass body and neck. Do they have a good reputation for making poroducts that fit together snuggly as purchased, or should I expect extra work? How are they compared to Warmoth, which people on here seem to regard as high quality? Additionally, why are all of Mighty Mite's replacement bass bodies made out of Maple?? This seems really weird to me, that they would offer ONLY maple, and not Ash or Alder or anything. Anyone else agree? Is there something i'm missing? Do Maple-body basses kick serious ass that I am unaware of? thanks

Thinking about buying a jazz bass body and neck for a new project. Nothing fancy, just basically putting them together, finishing it, and adding hardware. Question is: Should I expect the actual assembly to be very complicated? Do warmoth products tend to fit together snuggly, or do some have problems? I'm wondering how much work i'm gonna get into just adding neck to body and placing the bridge.

anyone??? bueller???

Is this a definite "NO, don't ever do that", or can it be done so long as you exercise caution?? thinking about stripping the poly finish off my 62' Tele Custom reissue, and refining with nitro.

Bear with me here.... So, i've been playing music lately where i'm tuned down to C. On a Precision bass. Problem is that the string tension, of course, just goes to hell, and i'm thinking of ways to fix it. So i'm thinking about just basically stringing the bass up with the lower four strings from five-string bass set. I'd try to get a lighter set, obviously, so the tune-up wouldnt add too much tension. Of course this would involve making a new nut, but that's easy. Anyway, does anyone foresee any OTHER problems with this that i'm not thinking of?

from a friend: "i found this old walnut guitar body. the thing is it hasn't been cleaned in years. it has a regular finish like an sg or firebird (clear coat as oppossed to paint). there must be an eighth of an inch of sweat, grime and grossness on it. how do i remove this?" anyone got suggestions?

depends how thick you want it. I used two cans of an equivalent on my last project. Some people would probably tell you to use 4 cans, but I didnt want a super-thick glossy finish.

I recently stripped a newer epiphone that had that horribly thick poly finish on it. I tried to sand most of it, which took FOREVER since most of it couldnt be sanded with a parm sander, and I couldnt even get all of it off by hand in the hard to get places. So I bought a $20 heat gun at the hardware store. I was amazed at how well it worked. I had been hesitant due to people's stories about hot paint flakes flying off the guitar, but it was nothing like that. After a short time under the gun, the finish started popping like jiffy-pop and got little pock marks all over it. The you just quickly scrape the area off with a scraper. Worked great, and all I had to sand after that was a little residual that didnt come up.

yeah, that's what I fugured the answer was. crap. I havent applied too much laquer (i'm not really into the ultra-gloss finish) but I bet it still needs a week. My first day I did a "coat" or a "once-over" every half hour until it had four of these applications. It used about a can of Deft aerosol laquer. I let that dry for a day, steel wooled the texture out, and then repeated the process. And that's pretty much all I plan to do.

so question, then...... how long do you guys USUALLY wait between final coat of laquer and assembly? and do you do this before you treat the guitar like it's "done"? I just applied my final coat of deft laquer yesterday, and I was thinking about putting the guitar together tonight (mostly because i'm anxious like crazy). It's my first refinish, so I really don't know the ropes. But it sounds like that's probably a bad thing to do.

So.......i'm finishing a Gibson. I masked the edge of the fretboard from staining, but for clear coat, i'm assuming i should re-mask so that the edge of the fretboard get's clear coated as well. Does anybody have any experience with this?

Okay......so I think i'm going with Deft laquer and sanding sealer for a guitar i'm finishing, but I'm trying to figure whether I want to use a brushable liquid or a rattlecan. I suppose what I want to know is, are there any major disadvantages of using a brushable liquid? Background info: I live in Brooklyn, NY and have limited space. Using any kind of aerosol spray finish means working on my roof and is somewhat of a hassle, especially during the hours with which the finish needs to dry. Using a brushable would mean, theoretically, less mess and so I could do it inside in a well vetilated room. So.....gimme your thoughts!