RRVCustom

did u clear coat over the krylon? if so, how many coats and what type? if not, how many coats of krylon?

no, that's not what i meant by active. active is active electronics. as in battery-powered. actually, im planning on using both at all times. no switch. also, i talked to the guy at the hardware store, and he said sanding sealer goes under stain, not enamel.

change of plans. the guy wants $250 to paint it. yea right! im thinkin emerald green krylon. can i clear coat over enamel? thanks in advance.

good idea, tho im on a budget. ill see if i can get him to work that in.

ok, been a while since an update, but i'm back. got it all ready to paint, found a buddy to do it cheap. he does cars on the side, so he uses house of kolor paints. he told me to just scuff it up, like 120-200 grit, and he'll do the rest (primer, etc). i was thinking color-wise, that Limetime Pearl would be a sweet color. anyone else agree?

where do i begin?? 1)get the parts before u begin even a template for the body. 2)use a depth stop for the screw holes on the heel of a bolt on neck. even if it's a piece of tape wrapped round the bit. i actually broke thru the ebony fingerboard of my warmoth-made neck. since it was already ruined (so i thought), i chucked it and snapped off the headstock. that's when i realized that i could've just gotten a new fingerboard and frets. doh. 3) ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS have a steady source of income before and during a project. $$=good. 4)If you aren't going to paint it yourself, find a buddy to do it cheap. i'm currently being ripped off by the guy that's gonna paint (or is painting) my RR3. i paid him $100, then found someone that would do it for $75. oh well, pizza and beer fund for the guy, i guess. 5) Measure twice, walk away to think, measure some more, stare at it, cut once.

talk to matt when he gets back. maybe he'll let the IMPALER go. doubt it, but worth a try.

Hey. Name's Casey. I'm from Louisville, OH, USA. Bought my first guitar for 17th b-day. a firstact from the walmart shelves. started building an RR3 copy around january of this year in Woodshop class. put it on hold for a while, b/c of lack of $$. got it all ready to finish and wire now, but lack of $$ again, so no way to buy finish

ur in luck i just decided i dont have use for my SH-6. it was going to go in the bridge on my new RR3 im making, but i need to get a passive. here's the musicians friend info. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/fg=41/...ase_pid/300042/ pm me. it's completely new, wires are uncut. i can send it in the original box if u'd like. it's black by the way.

just make sure all it pulls is air

or u could use the stuff and invest in a SCUBA outfit. kinda pricey, tho. might drive up the profit margin a tad.

25 to ship?? wow, didnt realize itd be that much. nvm, i guess i wasted ur time. lol

LK's pullin away

i really hate ebay. i want that wood, but it wont take my debit card. it works fine on paypal, tho...

i havent even touched it yet, but id kinda like to hear it in my firstact. call it curiousity that will most likely kill the cat. good soldering practice too!

well, i think someone said it earlier, but id have to go with ormsby on this one. of course, my love for the randy rhoads V may have clouded this decision, but oh well. :)

yay!! someone finally took over my title!! btw, what about the ohioans? do we have to polar bear lake erie or sumtin? b/c i've done that a few times, and its great

spinal/tap van/halen led/zepplin def/leppard

what do u guys think of a RR3, green under trans blue? im goin for like a dark tealish color. any other ideas? also, im lookin for something kind of easy, as this is my first job. would it be better to just look for a teal on reranch, etc.?

esp case still for sale? hate to tell u, but the highest i could go rite now is like $50 US, and that's after shipping.

well, thanx for the advice guys. as for the taper issues, dont worry. the only time i turn the volume at the guitar down is when im jammin and the phone rings. the tone is usually at 10 too, i only change the amp tone usually. when it comes to preamps, im a complete n00b. heard of them, but up til now, had no clue what they do. as for goin all active or all passive, not really an option rite now. i already have the parts opened, so they can't go back, and im broke. the only option is to take the passive HB outta my firstact, and swap in the active from SD. id have to do a lil rewiring, but it might turn out ok.

so if i understand rite, ash needs grainfilled? or can i just use a sanding sealer, like on stewmac's site? then sand back whatever i use first, and put down color coats, then clear lacquer ( or poly?) and polish? my RR3 replica is ash, and im really n00bish. first guitar built, 2nd owned. (although the first i own is a firstact from WM, so...)

thanks for the quick reply. i'll make sure not to diss the mods from now on! j/k. actually, that's almost exactly what i needed. the only q i have is the switch, it looks diff than mine. i guess ill have to contact joeguitar for that one. thanks again! btw, nice mst3000 avatar. i used to love that show. is it still on air in the states?

i usually say, if it aint broke dont fix it. but i think in this case, u'd save yourself time, trouble, and $ to just shield it now. go to the hardware store and get a roll of aluminum tape from the AC section. definately better than tin foil.

i'm going to put an active humbucker (seymour duncan) at the bridge, a single (also SD) at the neck, 1 volume (500k), 1 tone (250k), and a 3-way switch (neck, bridge, or both). any diagrams floating around? ive searched the site, and all ive found are HSS and HSH diagrams. btw, i'd like the switch to be neck only in the forward position, bridge only in the back position, and both in the middle. thanks a ton in advance!