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spyykko

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About spyykko

  • Birthday 04/20/1978

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    Tampere, Finland

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  1. Hello folks, after about 40 months of being In Progress, I finally managed to finalize this guitar. Final specifications: * Cedar (cedrela odorata) body, flame maple top, cedar-maple laminate neck. * Macassar-ebony fret board, 25″ scale, 22 medium-jumbo frets * Duncan JB + Jazz -pickups, 3-way switch, volume + push-pull tone. Positions: neck HB, Neck SC + Bridge SC with in phase / out of phase selection with push-pull -pot, Bridge HB. * Hipshot hardtail -bridge, strings through body design, Planet Waves autotrim-tuners * Acrylic finish I'm really satisfied with this guitar. It plays really nicely, looks great and has all the features I need. I had some roadblocks along the way, but I learnt a lot while fixing the mistakes I made. In my future projects I still try to pay more attention to every single detail. Nevertheless, this is by far the best and challenging build I've made. a teaser: More pics here -SeppoP-
  2. Hello, I'm going to Beijing China to a Business / leisure trip next week. Does any of you know any good places to buy guitars and especially guitar and bass parts in Beijing? I'm looking stuff in the lowest price range, not western made high class products. -SeppoP-
  3. I don't know how large companies make those chrome / gold logos*, but they can be fairly well replicated with ALPS / OKI DPxxxx -series MicroDry printers. These printers have both gold/silver ribbons (silver as in regular Fender logo) as well as gold / silver foil ribbons. These foil colors can be printed on normal water-slide decal. Please google "decals on alps printer" for more info. * Edit: My best guess is these type of logos are made by silk screening with special inks. -Seppo-
  4. Yes, it's soft - but so is mahogany. Originally Jester asked about one local wood supplier. I'll answer in bad english, so no one will feel left outside of the discussion. Prices at Hakala's are competetive, but the wood is not necesserily tonewood-quality. They store all wood indoors, but they aren't allways seasoned after kiln drying, so at least I have always kept my woods in storage for at least a couple of months before starting working with them. Cedar for this project costed around 40 euros. The usually have great stock, but it varies a lot, so it's not a bad idea to give them a call before visiting. They are opened only on weekdays 8-16, but the owner may come to serve you also on other hours and on weekend, if you warn him beforehand. Cedar is in Finnish seetri.
  5. Yes, same stuff! Finnish luthier Juha Ruokangas uses spanish cedar in some of his models and he seems to be extremely satisfied with cedar's tonal qualities. Actually the body outline of my work has been stolen from his Duke model. The wood by the way tastes extremely bad. I have had to learn to work my mouth closed while sawing and sanding. Otherwise you'll taste the wood in your mouth many hours after leaving the
  6. May I ask what makes you doubt the strenght of the neck? Since it's a laminate construction to me it feels more sturdy than e.g. the mahogany neck with rosewood fretboard on my FlyingV. Woods are all bought locally. Cedar and maple are from Hakalan Puutukku in Lahti, and ebony from SoitinrakentajatAMF. -Seppo-
  7. Check this out: http://corvette-summer.com/images/58gibsonv.TIF -Seppo-
  8. Hello all, Here you'll find a few in progress -shots of my latest project, an carved top guitar with cedar body, flamed maple top and cedar/maple laminate neck. I've had very little time to work with this, so it has progressed really slowly. I had some troubles in the beginning, like I had to make a new top and new headstock, but at this point I'm quite happy with the state of the project. Specs: 25" neck, cedar-maple laminate, ebony fretboard, ebony headstock veneer Brazilian Cedar body, flamed maple top Hipshot hardtail-bridge, Planet Waves locking tuners, 2 x humbuckers, 3-way blade, volume, push-pull -tone with coil split Visit my gallery -Seppo-
  9. How have you planned to smooth out your cast? I don't think the cast will never be smooth and accurate enough to be used as guide rail without some machining, so i think you'll have to start buying roses for your wife anyway I agree with Ron about the issue with travel, and using dissimilar materials. Otherwise it looks good for being a prototype. Keep up with your work and post more pics as you progress!
  10. I tried googling with with "EMI shield paint" and found this: www.tbaecp.co.uk Their's ECP552 seems to me very similar product as the M.G. Chemicals' counterparent.
  11. What kind is your mill and what is it capable of doing? Is it only a 2D machine, which can do pocketing and 2D routing or can you use it to machine 3D contours as well? If your machine is a 3D mill, you'll need a 3D CAD model of the top. Modelling a carved top body is a tedious job, and requires right tools. Most of the 3D CAD software really can not handle this type of complex surfaces, or at least the surfaces can not be easily created with them. The 2D body outlines at the download section will not help you very far. After you have your model you'll need to use a CAM processor to convert the cad model to G-code (or what kind of code your machine accepts). There are several brands, but Mastercam is maybe the most well known. If you want to save time, don't go with the CNC. You can carve the top with help of some power tools in a couple of hours, but you'll propably have to spend several days just to make the 3D CAD model (depending of you previous CAD-experience). If you just want to learn to use your mill, or you are planning on manufacturing several identical bodies then go for it. Remember to post pictures of your progress to all PG readers.
  12. You'd be hard pressed to find someone who can do a gapless inlaid top without the help of cnc. That's just one of a few examples where you'd need the assistance of cnc on a small scale. Sorry, I really ment to say i can't see any reason to use 3D CNC in one off production More simple (2D) works like inlays can be done with relatively simple machinery and software and more importantly spending much less effort to modelling/drawing. Ruokangas guitars' website used to have a picture of similar piece of equipment, but it was raised to almost horizontal position, like old fashioned parallelogram drawing boards. It seemed to me a much more ergonomic than the table top -model. Too bad the shop tour -pictures have been removed from their web site.
  13. One limitation I see has been finding reasonably priced 3-d CAD software that you can turn into g-code. It seems like if you really want to design something with complex 3-D shapes (like the arch of an archtop or a compound radius fretboard) you need pro versions of CAD software that all cost between $800 and $1500. I'd not try to make a 3D modell of carved top guitar by modelling it to a 3D CAD from scratch, no matter how expensive the system is (currently I'm using SolidWorks 2006 at work). Instead I'd carve a physical model of the top from soft wood or styroform (or anything that is easy to work with) by hand and have it 3D scanned. After that I could make some modifications, mirroring etc with cad, but these type of complex shapes are way easier to do by hand than by a computer. Besides, computers tend to kill your creativity, somehow you get better ideas when working with your hands :-) What comes to the cheap(ish) CNC routers, they are hardly ever suitable for such a demanding job as carving the top. They are ment to be used in easy tasks in 2D (routing or drilling PCB's or name plates etc.) or in 2,5D (routing pockets of different deapths by gradually taking off more and more). Cheap controllers are simply not powerfull enough to move all three axes accurately at the same time. Besides, CNC is ment for mass production. I really can't see any reason why to use it in one off production (besides the fact that playing around with different gadgets is so much fun). -- Seppo Design Engineer
  14. Here's a piece of information about the P90 bobbin design. Hope it helps! Link
  15. OK, that explains it. If you are using laser, then you'll probably need the dxf -file instead of dwg.
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