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About Hollander

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  1. Hollander have a look at the most comprehensive trem tuning guide you will ever see in your life from Rich Harris - http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/index.htm most of the stuff written is for the better quality Ibanez trems - edge, lo-pro, edge -pro but still applicable for all floyd styles. Once you have dismissed all loose locking parts the prob is usually bad knife edges & wobbly posts. Read his guides, knife edges should be 'butter knife' sharp & check the shape of the 'v' in the pivot posts that nothing binds. Loose posts in their inserts hurt tuning, on a trs there are n
  2. Well, I put on my dancing shoes and took a file to the fulcrum edges. These edges certainly are not hardened. I polished them a bit with sandpaper for as far as I could reach it. I guess looking alright and performing well are two different things. It's a whole lot better. Not perfect yet. I'm guessing it's because I can't file as cleanly as Ibanez can. But with some slight adjustments in using it (Giving the trem a tug upward after a dive bomb, can be done silently) it is at least within playable range. I'm a bit disappointed with Ibanez. They are asking almost the same for this trem as
  3. Check. They actually did take some turns of fastening, but it still pulls off key... I really appreciate all your help in this little puzzle.
  4. Thanks for the reply. I checked the clamps by turning the tuners a couple of turns intill the strings were loose. The guitar stayed mostly in tune so I guessed that would be good then. Only the D string slipped slightly, I replaced that screw. Haven't tried since. All the strings on the trem side were completely clamped to the bottom of the slot. I figured the thing with slipping is that if you pull the guitar very sharp, the string would slip even further and it would return to a lower pitch because of that. It doesn't, it returns to a higher pitch. And it's not just one string, it's all th
  5. This is about an Ibanez RG 320 from the son of a friend of mine. He's asked me to look it over because it detunes easily. This guitar has a Lo-TRS III tremolo, which is a pretty standard redesigned Floyd Rose type. I don't seem to be able to pinpoint the problem, though. The symptom is that it does not return to pitch. If I depress it it comes back flat and if I pull it up it comes back sharp. Strings are not that old. I think that means it's catching somewhere, it's not slipping because then it would come back flat on pull-ups. The lock nut is good, no slippage there, neither at the stri
  6. So right! I use a batterycompartiment out of an old toy, holds 2 AA penlites. Most LEDs work fine on 3 Volts. I attach the - end to the bridge. All strings make contact with the bridge so that's fine. Actually it doesn't make any difference where you make that contact, every string is connected to any other via the bridge. I put the capo on, have the guitar in playing position and pick the string. Then I have the LED's other foot make contact with a fret only, not a string. If the vibrating string makes contact it flashes faintly. If I touch a string it just lights up strong. If it was on
  7. Thanks ihocky2, I didn't think so. It just didn't feel right. If I play a string with a pick, I mainly push up or downwards. the shape of the pick pushes the string inwards, so there you have the vibrations at at least an angle, not parallel to the fretboard. I'll get me some better straightedges en try the leveling thing again. Again, when I try the led method it tells me the strings make contact on just about every fret, no matter where I put the capo. That would mean the relief would be good but the action would be too low, or I'm hitting the strings too hard. But it's not low. An
  8. There's no problem getting enough relief or none at all or adjusting the action... Mighty Mite only makes Strats and Teles. But I can imagine their catalog might not be on top of everyones mind... What I have here is a Strat with a two post tremolo bridge (Guitarfetish). Three Single coils, pretty standard. What can I take pictures of that would clarify this somewhat? My luthier friend said it's buzzing because the strings are not only vibrating vertically but also circulating to a horizontal (perpendicular to the frets) due to the magnetics of the pickups. I lowered those but it
  9. That's a remarkable story. I'm glad it worked for you! But I don't get the physics behind it... What actually changed here? The angle of the neck on the body or the relief of the part of the neck above the joint/creditcard sliver was put under tension? What's the difference between changing the neck body angle and raising or lowering the bridge/saddles? Actually when I first put this guitar together It had huge action with the bridge and saddles on the floor, they couldn't go lower. There was quite a bit of lacquer in the neck pocket, I filed off a bit of it to change the neck/body
  10. Thanks for all the input! And yes of course there is a problem, so I must be doing something wrong. I was hoping someone could point a finger at what it could be. It's not so obvious. Maybe it's my ruler... It appears to be pretty straight but I have no idea if it was precision ground. And I've tried everything more than once. Except taking a file to it. Seems like a last resort thing to me. And I'd like to know where to file first... The LED method does appear to not point in the direction of the body end of the fretboard... I'll put on some new strings tomorrow. See what my old f
  11. Thanks for all the replies! You need to dress the frets, plain and simple. A fret file does not lie. Low action and a relatively straight neck IS possible provided the frets are properly dressed. Roman I would believe so... But I can't find what ilness to treat. The neck is perfectly level as far as I can tell and beautifully crowned. Some other guitars of mine have far more uneven frets and hardly buzz, maybe just locally. This one buzzes everywhere. I've tried sighting, straightedges, Stewmac Fret Rocker, the LED... I'm stumped. I wanted a single coil strat, both my othe
  12. Hi y'all. I'm new here. In a step towards educating myself into building and setting up guitars I assembled one from parts. I'm not in a position to do the woodwork as yet. The parts are Mighty Mite neck and body. Maple neck with ebony fretboard, pretty big frets and an ash body with a thin but very striking curly maple veneer. From a distance of more than three feet it's stunning! Anyway, it's assembled now, but I have a problem: it's buzzing along the entire neck, at every string. Strings are new, .010 gauge. Bridge is good. Action is actually pretty high, over 2mm (.08") on the low
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