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Tim

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Everything posted by Tim

  1. I'm not a medical professional, so take that into consideration, but from what I've read the rumors that the shell dust is deadly were true before, when asbestos was used in some grinding phase to process the shells to shell blanks. Today that kind of methods aren't used any more for obvious reasons. The shell dust is quite harmless to the touch. My hand was always covered with the stuff when I was sawing blanks. As was said, the only hazard comes if you breathe the dust into your lungs. Shell dust just like any other dust can cause harmful effects over time. Even if the dust itself isn't toxic. i.e. is inert. I'd imagine it would be easy to get winded, if your lungs were half filled with dust. Abalam is just thin shell layers glued together. I'd imagine the glue dust could be even more dangerous than solid shell dust. So wear a mask. And vacuum the dust away so it won't be swirling in the air after you have removed the mask.
  2. Maybe would be better to get two thin clear plastics and paint on one, and attach the other on top of that for protection. Painting on the underside could be a bit hard if you're using more than 1 color and want to put color on other color . No way to fix with more brush strokes. But for a simple 'cut a design as a hole on paper and spray one color through that' method, why not.
  3. About the routing. I did some of my LP top carving with a router bit attached to a drill press. If you'd do it that way you wouldn't need a huge router base etc. You'd have to take it slow, since I wouldn't take much at a time, but I think it would work to remove a top. Just make sure the guitar bottom and drill press base are flat. Just a thought Can't really help much more, since I haven't even finished my first guitar
  4. Clear speed knob http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=7316977772
  5. I have used them on an electric and after playing I just wipe them with a cloth. Looks to work ok. Since there is that membrane around the string dirt and moisture can't penetrate, but I guess if you didn't wipe at all there could be some grime buildup on the strings. Don't know if that would affect sound much though, since it's only superficial and comes off easy if it's a problem. But I'm still on my first set of Elixirs, don't even remember when I put them on, but then I don't play very much.
  6. No, that neck and headstock are for a Les Paul style electric. body shape
  7. Sure, I'll post pics when it's ready, but it probably won't be ready until end of the year. Not in a band I'm afraid. In fact the building of the guitar has made me play again after a long break, just to be able to play something cool with the guitar when it's finished Didn't know that. Thanks for sharing that with me
  8. Thanks all for the compliments Yep, I'm from Finland. Ojala name comes from Pohjanmaa (western part of Finland). At least now I'm thinking my next one will be much less complicated Since that one was so much work. But maybe time will make me forget that, and I'll be tempted to do something more. But at least my sawing was becoming faster toward the end, so next one probably wouldn't take the ~70 hours total that this one took Thinking of trying a classical guitar after this one, so that wouldn't have any inlays. Only the rosette, which I may be tempted to do from scratch.
  9. Link to bigger picture. Hi all, The course I was building my first guitar on ended, so the construction will be taking a summer break. But since I got the inlay part almost finished, I wanted to share it with you. Did the peghead first, last autumn, and just finished the fingerboard. Binding isn't leveled, and final polish is missing, but you can see how it's going to look. Rose is 17 pieces, vine 63, logo 2, trussrod cover 1 Took like 70 hours in total, so I won't be doing another one anytime soon I want to thank Project Guitar site for great tutorials for guitar building, and especially Craig for the inlay part, since it was his shark inlay tutorial that got me wanting to try inlaying Hopefully I fit into the next semester of the instrument building course and get to show you the finished guitar sometime next autumn //Timo
  10. How do those rounded and slim tapers work? Are the measurements same for both types and first is only more rounded and the second more V-like? If I take the neck shape from a strat (-83 elite), will I be a lot off the LP spec?
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