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Everything posted by Doc

  1. Just an opinion but I think that Porter Cable pretty much has everyone else beat day to day for belt sanders. I have had Makita's and my main complaints have been part availabilty and then part cost. They also tend to be a bit clumsy to handle I have had very few B and D tools that have held up to day to day use in the last 25 years. I have some really old ones that are tanks but the new stuff is home handy man grade. I have one of the old PC beasts that looks like a locomotive and has a 4x24 on it, but it's a bear to use and isn't even made anymore since Dewalt bought them out. I h
  2. Maybe I'm out of line here but what you have there is a horizontal metal cutting bandsaw. It really isn't designed to do anything much more than do a really good job of cutting through metal. It is essentially a motorized hacksaw. The guide systems, table and darn near everything else will be a pain in the butt to get to cut curves in wood. Remember that one of the most common functions of bandsaws is to very efficiently cut meat for butchers. Like sides of beef, carcasses of turkeys and fingers of woodworkers. All of the horizontals I've worked with are made to not have your fingers anywhe
  3. Bandsaws sure do cause a lot of worry. I go to the IWF show in Atlanta every two years just to walk around and see everything made by nearly everybody and drool a lot. I have an Inca 10 1/2", an old Grizzly 14 and a really old Parks 20". The Parks did come from Sears in the early 60's, but I just haven't liked their stationary tools for the last thirty years or so. This may be a personal shortcoming that I have. The Grizzly saws of today are on a par with any of the Taiwanese saws available. In the past they made some pretty unforgivable junk but not any more. A 14"with a riser kit
  4. I've got an old Inca 10 1/2 which takes a 73 1/2 blade. Garrett Wade used to be the only place to get them so I bought a bandsaw blade brazing kit rom Woodcraft and make up my own. All it takes is a mini-torch, a grinding wheel and a kit. If I can braze them up, anyone can. It takes me a total of about 15 minutes to make one. I bought the bandsaw blade stock from the guys who sharpen my blades for me. It's really great to be able to have a shrp blade when I need it without waiting.
  5. Twenty years ago I shared a building with a guy who was doing reproductions in quantities from 12 up. They made beds, chests of drawers, tables, all kind of applied archaeology stuff. He had a shop full of old equipment of a similar vintage to the ones in the post. His family had been in the business for years and this was the stuff that they didn't use because they had replaced it with modern equipment. His guys were generic woodworkers many of whom had a lot of experience and were pretty meticulous workers. About once a month they had what I would call a serious incedent involving a problem
  6. I've been real busy so sorry for the delayed response. I've shot a ton of this stuff. It's a good quality production lacquer primarily intended for the kitchen cabinet industry. A lot of furniture guys swear by it. You'll definitely get the best results using the vinyl sealer. This stuff does not sand as well as regular lacquer sanding sealer, at least in my experience. Some of the folks here who like to sand to 6000 or so may find it gums the paper even sanding wet. The lacquer does resist yellowing really well. It doesn't buff as easily as nitrocellulose, but it cures much faster
  7. I don't have any references for you on this. It does seem a little weird, but I have had two different physicians that I do furniture work for ask me about long term hearing loss and both have mentioned the skeletal transmission thing. One is an orthopod and the other and ENT specialist. I think at this point it's just one of those "wonder what's going on here" things that doctors tend to kick around. I do wear hearing protection and I'm still getting pretty serious tinnitis.
  8. I've got a couple of pieces of Festool equipment and as some of my older stuff dies I'll probably be getting some more. The stuff just works better than most other equipment. It's really made to use. It is the only tool line that I can think of that has no weak links, and I can't even think of anything that I would change on my Festool sanders. The Triton router is a super piece of equipment. You don't see many of them in the US. Pricey. I have seen them at the last couple of IWF shows in Atlanta and they seem pretty well thought out.
  9. Choosing tools is very much an individual thing. We all have different ways of getting to the same end result. Ask other woodworkers. Most of them are opinionated and with shre their opinions. I am a certified tool junkie and I have unreasonable expectations of performance. I wind up with what I can afford and tolerate. That all said, here are some other nuggets. To protect your hearing you also need to isolate yourself from the high speed vibration of the tools,especially routers. There are some current studies that are suggesting that skeletal transmission of vibration can permanent
  10. If you don't mond spending some money the Festool sanders leave everyone else in the dirt. The 6" Rotex is, in my opinion the best sander made. It switches between random orbit and rotary and is variable speed If you want a cheaper alternative the Porter Cable 5" random orbital is a good pro quality choice. If you have a real compressor (one without wheels that weighs about what I do) air power is great. Most cabinet shops use Dynabrades. They make sanders for Klingspore and Mirka that are marketed under their names. They are simple strong and rebuildable. Cost is about $200.
  11. I started using planes when there was no Lie-Nielson. I have a LN block plane and a No5 bench. Superb tools right from the box. I also have an old (1900 or so) Craftsman that was made by Stanley. I used it for years in the condition that I inherited it from my grandfather. A couple of years back I followed the Fine Woodworking article on tuning one up. I also replaced the blade with an aftermarket. It is ugly. After you've been beaten by heathen woodworkers for a hundred years or so you'd be ugly too. It cuts beautifully and accurately, and feels as good as an LN to use. My point is if y
  12. The polyshades products are the moral equivalent of paint. The natural grain and color of the wood will be buried. Bad idea. You can use five minute epoxy, but you can also mail order either epoxy wood filler or traditional wood filler on line. The five minute type can be tinted to any color that you want, but it's really glue not filler. I know lots of the folks here swear by it as a filler, but not me. I haven't used the wipe on poly, but last month's Fine Woodworking rated it as the best of the wipe on products that it tested and their articles are usually spot on. Look at the Guit
  13. Just out of curiousity what kind of dye was it and how much did you mix in the alcohol? Usually the two part will kill it in two applications tops. There is a concentrated Sodium Hypochlorite bleach that the dip and strip furniture guys use that's about 20X stroger than Chlorox. It'll kill even hundred year old dark purple analine. I think Minutman is a distributor.
  14. Try a test board and wipe it down with Armor-all, then finish it with whatever you're using. Some stuff doesn't like Armor-all. I haven't used a lot of purpleheart, but when I have I've used the Armor-all trick and it has worked pretty well. I made a hand mirror for a customer about 18 years ago and it has turned a bit browner than when it started, but it still has a definitely purple cast.
  15. Squirrel cages will move plenty of air. That one has open electronics so I wouldn't advise using it. The other question is "what is the impeller (blade) made of?" It needs to be aluminum or other sparkless material.
  16. Try wiping it down with Clorox bleach. This will usually "erase" analine dye. Do it once let it dry then do it again. If that doesn't work go to Oxalic acid. the next step is to try peroxide bleach. This is a two part bleach. Kleen Strip makes a kit that I am pretty sure Lowe's and Home Depot both sell.
  17. Okay, I'll put in my 2 cents worth. There are a lot of grades of carbide. The best cutting tools that I am aware of use C-4 grade. In router bits you pay for the quality of the carbide, the quality of the brazing and the quality of the bearing. And quality control. The "bad" bits don't get out of the factory. You get what you pay for. Whiteside, CMT, and Freud make good stuff, on the whole. So does Amana. This is an Israeli made product that is mostly sold to pros. The problem with Grizzly et al is quality control. Some of their stuff is great, Some out of the same batch
  18. There's a product that I pick up at Harper Hardware Co in Richmond, Va called De-Glue Goo. It is a nasty slimey looking mess that will dissolve any glue that was originally water based, especially if it hasn't set for years. The set yp stuff takes longer but will eventually give up. Costs about $5. Turns the glue into jello.
  19. My wife has agreed to teach me the ins and outs of posting pictures so , when i get some time I'm going to do a couple of quick tutorials, mostly with routers. Till then, 1) get yourself a decent compass. By this I mean one that will pretty much lock in place. Make a paper pattern for what you want to rout. Make it the exact size. 2) set the width of the compass point to the pencil by putting one against the cutting edge of your bit and the other against the outside of your collar. 3) draw a new line inside the edge of your pattern by running the point of the compass along the outsid
  20. I know my opinion doesn't mean diddly to you guys, but 1) If you don't know the difference between two part and regular poly urethane you shouldn't even think about using it until you do. 2) Not only will the toxins (meaning stuff that will kill you) go through a standard respirator in amounts that will hurt you but if you are standing around in fumes the stuff will go through your skin in dangerous amounts. 3) Spraying in the back yard is a bad idea for a lot of reasons, many of which have been discussed here. It's not nice to poison mother nature. 4) I bought a kit from my lo
  21. I'm gonna risk the wrath of the gods here and say that gorilla glue is a terrible choice for this kind of repair. I've found it to be a terrible choice for a lot of things. It is good for stuff that's going to have water exposure and not a whole lot else. It dosen't have the shear strength of a good yellow, white or hide glue, and is a gooey, nasty mess to work with. It will gap fill by bubbling up, but then it loses a whole lot of it's strength. They do have great looking advertising, and every hardware store and Big Box Mart pushes the stuff, but it just isn't as good a woodwork
  22. Good morning, What are you going to do with this collector? What kind of machinery are you using? How long a run are you going to have on your collection pipe? Since almost all of this stuff comes out of China these days there probably isn't a great deal of difference in the quality of the two. I have a Grizzly like the Harbor and a Jet like the Delta, and I'd go with the two hp model. They just seem to move a whole lot more dust, and the cost is the same.
  23. I'll second the second opinion. A properly done glue joint is stronger than the wood. Cutting a spline in will, in my opinion, weaken the joint. I would dry fit it, and while it's together drill two holes the size of a small finishing nail. Glue it up, put the nails in to maintain the alignment, and clamp 'er up. I'd use a couple of spring clamps. and let it set up for a day or so. The teeny holes are easy to hide.
  24. One of these days I'll figure out how to post pictures amd links. Till then, a template guide is a type of bushing that fits on the bottom of your router base. They come in a huge number of diameters. Think of it as a tube that sticks down frm the center of your base and the routher bit sticks down futher through the center of it. I thnk that this will get you to one. http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=3399&p=3864 I use the one 1/16" larger than the diameter of my bit and make my pattern that much smaller. Most of the guys who post here don't like them for no stated resaon
  25. Craftsman bits are okay if you're somewhere that you can't find a top shelf bit and have to have it now. I've used them when I'm doing an install in the boondocks and need the bit that I didn't think I could conceivably need and left at the shop. They have always done an acceptable job and are priced appropriately. This same review goes for darn near anything in the Sears tool section.
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