sidysm

I've decided to install seymour duncan blackouts in my ibanez and I'm trying to decide how to wire them. At present the ibanez has a five way switch for split sounds with a volume and tone pot. I was wondering if the following would be possible as a wiring plan. First question to check my understanding is correct is that a tone control essential takes the pickup input and connects iot to ground via a capacitor and the pot effectively blends how much of the signal goes through the capacitor. If I'm wrong I don't think the following is possible but just in case I'm right.... Obviously the blackouts don't allow for splitting so I was thinking reather than putting in a three way and having h1/h1&h2/h3 with volume and tone as I seldom use the tone ather than rolling it all the way back for some mellow neck tones I may be able to do the following... Utilising the 5 way switch join a capacitor between the pickup input and ground lugs to create the sound of the tone fully rolled off I could set m,y 5-way to give the sounds h1/h2/h1&h2/h2 toned/h1&h2/toned and then have 2 volume controls to allow matching. Is this possible and what do you guys think for useability?

thanks guys I'll give it a try, think I'll grip the nut and try to do the turning from underneath.

Ok I searched through about 50 pages of results and could n't find an answer to this (or a question for it so I may well be completely retarded) but... I 'm upgrading all electronics in my orville les paul to bring it up to '58 reissue specs and part of it is a switchcraft switch for the pickup selectors. What tool do I need to remove the nut that holds the selector switch in place though, It's like a small cog so a spanner wont work and i don't want to risk pliers to force it in fear of damaging the top. I suppose it must be obvious since noone else has brought it up but it's beyond me. thanks, for any help you can give

Unfortunately the guitar didn't hit the reserve so if anyone wants to offer me £550+p&p for it I'll sell for that as I need the cash at the moment. if anyone needs specific pics details let me know.

Anyone who's interested check my auction on ebay... here ...I may drop the buy it now price for PG members.

I'm considering purchasing a used Orville Les Paul which is a simply beautiful 59 Les Paul Vintage Sunburst Guitar barring one contencious point, it has a poly finish. I really don't think the shiny poly finish suits these vintage looking guitars but I could not have dreamed of a better looking burst so... Does anyone know how valid it would be to get the poly finish removed and a thin nitro finish applied maintaing the finish intact? And if so what would be a ball park figure to get this done proffessionally, I would even settle for just the top to be refinished? thanks for any help you guys can give. Sid and appologies in advance I meant to post this in the finishing forum

That's awsome of you to take the time to do that, I want to build a les paul dc soon and that tutorial was amazing. much appreciated.

Damn, that felt heavy, just read through all the posts, that was just painful. It's an odd sensation that so many good things to make you feel so saddened when something like that happens Dimebags playing was one of those things that just overtook you and anyone who listened to pantera, a wide era of metal fans, was captivated by him. I'd really like to see a proper tribute done for him like Chris Cornell did for Andrew Wood from mother love bone with the temple of the dog project, say hello to heaven blocks my throat. He touched so many musicians lives it seems impossible to imagine the songs haven't been written. It's a shame when people like 1-way get involved to tarnish a thread to a man he knows nothing about, reminds me of lawers who chase ambulances, but so many good memories of my youth in those posts. I can't wait to see the tribute guitars here, far more so than the commercial models, it sucks it that ended when and how it did.

Thanks setch that's what I need I can start doing the cad drawings now, I'm gonna go full thickness just didn't know quite how thick it was, I had a les paul a long time ago, swapping it for my rg3120 is one of my biggest regrets. Oh well fingers crossed this'll end up even better.

that's awsome, thanks a lot for your help.

got them cheers, I actually already had the Les Paul Junior plans, but as it's a flat top I was looking for standard les paul carve top dimensions. I am working at the planning with a 1" mahogany piece and 1" maple piece, 1/2" depth for carve and 1/4" route for binding but wondered if anyone new specifics of les paul?

Hi tonemonkey, Thanks for help, I've got autocad so should be able to open most files, I've pm'd my addy. I saw setch recommend that book as well in his les paul tutorial I was gonna order it off amazon. And I'm in Glasgow.

K first off first post so I should say thanks to everyone for all the advice and tutorials on this borad it's amazing all the info and has finally motivated to attempt to do something I've always wanted to. I've done the basic plan for the guitar I want to build and now know exactly what I plan to acheive It's going to be a hybrid of a les paul dc stanard plus, les paul custom and PRS McCarty. here's roughly what it'll look like when finished.... so here's the flood of commonly asked newbie questions....I honestly did search and have been reading loads of the site. 1. What is the body thickness for a les paul and typical wood depths ie total thickness, mahogany thickness and maple thickness? 2. I am drawing my plans based primarily to the specs on the gibson site for a dc standard plus here and was unsure whether the neck thickness specs include the fret board? 3. I notice on the gibson site that all the DC models use a 17° headstock angle though most people here recommend a 13° angle, and I always thought the steeper angle was weaker. Is there any benefeit to the steeper headstock angle on a DC. 4. I aint got wood working skills for ****, seriously...so rather than destroy some stunning wood I was considering trying to build the guitar from mdf, then getting a copy carver built to recreate the carve top and routing cavities, thus allowing me full bondo use and barvery to go nuts when making the guitar. Is anyone currently using a copy carver for this purpose, would it be a good idea? I figure better to spend £200 on a copy carver if it would do than continualy destroy £150 pieces of maple. there's probably loads more I need to ask but that'll get me moving with the cad drawings for now, so thanks for any help you can offer.