Jump to content

ooten2

Blues Tribute Group
  • Posts

    325
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ooten2

  • Birthday 09/19/1963

Profile Information

  • Location
    Houston, TX

ooten2's Achievements

Community Regular

Community Regular (8/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. I'm interested in the 2 mahogany necks. Sending PM.
  2. Using Perry's diagram for the neck angle, trigonometry can be used to calculate it. When dealing with a right triangle, the tangent of an angle is equal to the length of the opposite side divided by the length of the adjacent side. In this case, the right triangle is formed from the bridge, the bottom of the fretboard where the body joins, and the guitar top under the bridge. The right angle is at the bridge, and the angle you want to find is at the fretboard. The legs of the triangle are the bridge height and the length from bridge to FB, and the hypotenuse is the length from the FB to the top of the body under the bridge. Tangent = Opposite divided by Adjacent. Therefore... Tangent of the angle = bridge height divided by length from bridge to fretboard. Let's say your bridge is .5 inches high, and the distance from your FB to your bridge is 6 inches. Tan (x) = .5 / 6 Tan (x) = .0833 x = arcTan .0833 x = 4.762 The angle in this example is 4.762 degrees. Pick whichever method works best for you. Both work fine.
  3. Awesome stuff, as usual! I really like that tele body shape, very inspirational. I might have to make something like that one of these days!
  4. LMI carries ziricote fretboards, that's where I usually get mine. http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....ote+Fingerboard
  5. Ziricote is a really great fretboard match for limba...
  6. I had this same problem on a build a while back, the set screws stick up out of the bridge and scratch the heel of your hand. My solution was to take a saddle to lowes and find a screw that matched the diameter and thread count. (Of course, Lowe's doesn't have any set screws short enough) Then go to McMaster Carr and order some set screws that are sized the same diameter and thread count, and are shorter than the original ones. Problem solved, and very cheap, too. http://www.mcmaster.com
  7. Good stuff! I've used some copper based paint and a chemical patina that looks pretty good, but never tried the leafing. Also, pickguards and truss rod covers made from copper with an aged patina finish look very cool! Good job as usual!
  8. Thanks for posting that top bend. I've read about the process, but as the saying goes, pics are worth a thousand words. Great stuff there. I might get the courage to try it now. Thanks!
  9. I really like the zebrawood top. Cool stuff there. How about bocote for the fretboard on that one?
  10. So I guess you have a crybaby on your crybaby!
  11. +1 I've sealed a cocobolo neck with shellac and then finished with several coats of tru oil with great success. But I'm not sure if shellac and poly go well together.
  12. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Ski...e.aspx?id=30182
  13. I had a 335S Firebrand back in about 1981 or so, bought it brand new. It had a TOM, and was very similar to the Pauls, only it was a double cutaway. PSW is exactly right on everything, it was a brownish wood finish, and the main thing I remember about that guitar, it smelled like smoke. Seriously, there was a smokey smell to the finish. It was a great guitar, with a great tone and it played very nice. I sold it to a buddy for $500 back in the late 80's because I had too many guitars and needed the cash. It's one of those guitars that now I wish I had held on to.
  14. Wow, somebody else besides me remembers Stillwater? Cool. I always liked Joe Walsh's talkbox stuff. "Those Shoes" comes to mind. Butt out... Butt out...
×
×
  • Create New...