Jump to content

robmarch

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About robmarch

robmarch's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Although Maiden's suggestion will make it more sturdy, the way I designed this jig, with two layers of 5/8" MDF for the sled is plenty strong and does not flex under the weight of the router on its own, especially with smaller routers. It will flex a bit if you apply some downward pressure (~1mm), so when I use it, I only slide the router, not push down on it. Btw, I recently built Mika's neck pocket jig on the right-hand-side of my router planing jig. Two-in-one! Maybe I'll post a picture soon. If you are having doubts about building it, don't. This is such a usefull jig. I use it so often. Thickness planing for headstock venner, fingerboard, body surfaces, etc. I don't know how I would do things without it. Araz ← I'd like to see a picture of that. I will also be building some of these jigs in the future, since I now know how hard it is to build these things by hand looks good, dave. I'll have to check out how your other guitar ended up too
  2. you could take this as an opportunity to learn how to do fingerboard binding? mistakes happen, and you've got a great attitude about moving on. It's still going to end up a killer piece.
  3. great tools and jigs...I'm starting a shopping list.
  4. this is what I was thinking (the red) but the black looks ok to me too. leaving the bottom and the rest of the outline as is, just adding the interior relief cut. ebony veneer on top would look nice too, maybe binding the headstock edge too?
  5. inlaid butter knife would be even better. most people would have attacked the paint with a razor blade, right?
  6. as long as the flat plane is far enough below the level of the strings, sure. with no neck angle, it's pretty easy to figure out.
  7. you don't need neck angle with it, but depending on how thick your top is, and how much fingerboard extension you have, you may or may not need to recess it.
  8. I checked yesterday, and it's definitely a gotoh bridge. I have some pics I can upload at home. the spacing appeared to be around 2 1/16"
  9. why not leave the headstock outside edges alone, but take your interior "flame" cutout all the way to the edges? I hope you understand, I can't draw it right now. I think it would look great if you just made a "flame" relief cut on the top side, leaving everthing else the same.
  10. the low profile bridges do still come with 12" in radius. filing them down to match their flatter radius is a factory assembly step. for those that want to recess, you'd be asking for their "M" bridge. those that want the no neck angle part would be asking for the low profile TOM.
  11. I routed a fair amount, but I also am running a small gap between the strings and the body. without a neck angle, going for the big thick maple top look without making the body really thick requires some compromises. the top is around 7/8" thick. I didn't have a chance to measure everything last night, unfortunately, but I'll try to tonight. I had some house stuff pop up at the last minute. Also, the carvin CT series features a recessed tom, but their previous guitars with the shallow TOM didn't recess, and didn't have neck angle. the ct's are recessed, and use a different TOM bridge. I'll try to get you guys some pics and measurements tonight.
  12. maybe binding on it, or maybe even a veneer? you'd still see the signs of the construction technique on the back of the neck, but you'd have a blank canvas on the front to work with.
  13. agreed. reroute your neck pocket until you can do that while keeping your pickup rout intact. make sure you understand what this means before starting, because this will be pretty much your last hope at salvaging this neck/body combo into something playable.
  14. not on the maple top. it's straight nitro up there. I used spray can sanding sealer on the mahogany back, but ended up sanding most of it off, making it essentially a "grain filler." I'm sure this wasn't the most efficient way of doing this, but with spray cans, it was all I had. And, I didn't want to try grain filling with one of the usual suspects because I was worried that it wouldn't look natural with my skills thanks for the comments, everyone. I can't wait to buff this one out and assemble it and see how it sounds. the test stringing unplugged sounded crazy, but I guess the finish will change it a little.
×
×
  • Create New...