Ilia

I have to second Ron Thal - easily the most competent electric guitar player alive today. The guy is soo good, it should be illegal although he is a bit out there and most people can't really appreciate what he's doing. Mattias IA Eklundh is pretty much a step behind technique wise but he is an awesome composer and doesn't show off as much so he's more accessible to the casual listener. Also check out Frederick Thorendal, Blues Saraceno, Chris Brooks, Alan Lennon and Francesco Fareri.

Cool thanx for all the help guys. I just couldn't get my head around the fact that the tone cluster is run in parallel rather than in series but just stared at the diagram for a bit and totally understand what's going on. Thanx guys. ilia

OK it was a loooong time since I took Electrical Engeneering but I seem to remember the the signal always selects the path of least resistance. What that means to me is that if the output is hotwired to begin with the signal path would never make it through the tone circuit because the hotwiring will provide less resistance and the electricity will flow through there making the tone chain completely redundant. Before you answer think carefully what I'm asking and have a look at the diagram above. Do I have to bridge the two prongs after I cut off the Tone cluster? Those of you who say "No", please explain then why does the signal go through there if it is already hotwired to bypass it??? What about the least resistance thing? ilia

OK, but looking at that diagram the chain seem to be flowing through the tone pots so If I cut them off completely, wouldn't that break the signal path? What I'm asking is should I bridge the ears where the tone chain flows or just leave it disconected?

Can I just bridge the 2 "ears" from where the tone pots are originating and cut them off completely?

Thank you - I'll do that. I'll probably completely remove the tone pots if that can be done as I had a custom pickguard cut with only room for a volume pot on it.

Yes it is. All FR derived bridges that are suposed to sit in a recessed cavity have 74mm distance between the posts. It'll fit. ilia

Ok, I have a question for those who know their stuff. I recently purchased a complete pre-wired strat set and want to remove the tone pots from it. Yes, both of them and yes I don't do Tone pots. My question is can I just desolder all the wires that go to each tone pot and short circuit them all - would that work? Just to clarify I don't mean short circuit them all together but do that at 2 clusters, each where the tone pots were originaly. ilia

I thought that was a great joke. ....i'll get my coat

Well tonight I sat down to watch The Last Waltz (younger board members - google this and give it a go) and while jamming with it I decided to move a spring to see if anything will happen at all. Here's a few pics for the unimaginative among us and the ones who have never had .10s on a floating trem guitar. As far as I could tell after about 2 hours of jamming there is absolutely no change in feel and the guitar comes back to zero (+/- 2 to 3 cents but its always like that) without any issues at all. I'm still a little bit worried that 3 springs pulling mostly on 1 trem post are going to tilt it over time, especially if wild tremolo antics are performed on regular basis but I'll ask Max (Caprille) about it tomorrow and see what he says. Bottom line - my guitar is ready for a Tremol-No and I'll install one when they become available. Even though I don't really have the necessity to lock and unlock a bridge at all really, it's good to know that I could if I wanted to. ilia

Kevan, thanx a lot for the answers, I will switch one of my springs from position 4 to 3 to see if I get any major problems. My handle on “the other” site and on vai is dex but I always sign my posts. Couple of weeks ago before Simon moved to OZ we had a little gathering in his place and I played around with the BMC (he’s got the Tremol-no in there) and also talked about it with Darren Hunt (who’s also got one in his 7VWH) and Darren said that it’s a great little thing. He said the trem is not as bouncy or what we would call fluttery as much as without it but otherwise did exactly what it said on the tin. I also met Richard there (the guy that send you the cool email) and he is a mighty cool chap. There was a point where Jamie (Darrens’ brother) handed him a guitar and he said “I’m not really a guitar player” after which he proceded to scare us with some great fast runs that I can’t even dream of doing. Thanx once again and best of luck with everything. I will deffinately buy one when they come out. ilia

First of all congrats to Kevan for managing to interest not one but 2 potential companies. I hope it all works out for you as anyone who's managed to think of something usefull and then slaved to make that idea a reality deserves to reap the benefits of it. I have to come clean and say that my posts on that "other" site are probably more negative than Glens' but at the end of the day all I said was that I didn't think a guitar company will ever install these as standart on any guitars. I only sayd that because the schaller sure claw and the tremsetter are not offered as stock on ANY guitar out there and they are just as usefull as this. Anyway what I wanted to ask is since I really like .10s, all my floating trem guitars (4 in total, 2 jems) have 4 springs on and I would have to go for the vintage tremol-no when they are available as the screwholes on the tremolo block are now used to hold 2 of the springs. Also the springs are in a = = configuration but with the tremolo no designed to take the place of the second spring I wonder if the tuning will be stable enough with the springs out of balance regarding the posts - because I'll have to put them in like _ tremolo-no = _ cheers ilia

3 of these 4 are exceptionally good copies of the Schaller FRII or if they are Schaller - they were a steal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=2372433355 - this one however is a cheap Low TRS type trem that is not that good.

Just to add about 7ender trems.......because that's what I play now. 1. You need 7ender bullet strings. They are designed to get stuck in the bridge and don't slip when you use the trem. 2. Every string change use a pencil to "grease" the groves in the nut and the saddles. 3. Raise the back of the bridge by 3mm (by unscrewing the trem spring claw - for the clueless) 4. Raise the 4 middle screws about 5mm so they don't touch the baseplate appart from inside the holes. 5. Adjust the 2 end screws to just about touch the baseplate (remember the baseplate is angled forward an there's 3mm gap at the back) Use .010 gauge strings as they are more stable. Don't rock the trem as if you have a Floyd. 50-100 cent drop and raise of pitch is easily achievable and the trem returns to whithin 2-3 cent to pitch in the worst case scenario and almost dead on most of the time. Remember - just be gentle and you'll love your 7ender trem and your 7ender. ilia P.S. I'm very tempted to buy a GRX40 just to see how comparable to 7ender this could be.

bookmark man I hope the fact that we all come here without going through your website doesn't disapoint you. I don't know about the others, but I have been to projectguitars and universaljems so many times............... for those of you who haven't been there, go now. I said NOW.