h20rider

I have a vintage single cutaway hollowbody acoustic archtop. It has a set neck. The action is medium-medium-low. I get a fretbuzz on almost all strings when fretting just above 12. It clears up for the final frets after 15. Yes, the problem is occurring where the neck joint is, but the set looks really sound. The fretboard does seem to angle up very slightly at this point. By the way, the end of the fretboard is, by design, off the body. That is, there is an intentional gap between the fretboard/and the body. I just got the instrument and it came with electric strings (9s). A replaced them with acoustic 12s. I tecj adjusted the truss rod, and I didn't notice the buzz then. I didn't notice it with the light strings, but then again I didn't get into the upper registers. Could the neck have settled into a buzz based on the new string tension. Readjust truss rod? Go to lighter strings? Avoid playing up there?...(I don't like that one) Thanks for any help The tech is on vacation and I'm anxious to figure this out.

Thanks a lot! The suggestions are very useful...as is the advisory about heat and pearloid. I'lltry your method Setch.

I have a 64 Harmony thinline with rosewood fretboard and rectangular inlays. Some of the inlays slightly depressed on one side and slightly elevated above fretboard level on the other. Sort of a bipolar disorder kind of thing for you fans of mental disorders. In any case, is there a way to rectify this situation without fret removal and major surgery (another medical reference). I haven't done any inlay work, but have a steady hand with small tools. Perhaps gentle heating witha heatgun will loosen the inlays sufficiently tp ease out. Then cleanin them up, and reglueing.....? Thanks in advance for helpful ideas...and warnings.

Whew! A lot of replies!!!

Okay...I gave up and took it to a tech. $5 will get you $10 that by the time this is all taken care of, it'd be cheaper to buy a small concert hall and just get the natural reverb acoustics. I think the Disney Hall may be up for sale.

Just send me your address and I'll send you enought to do a couple of guitars. Chalk it up to international relations. G'day

Yes, but I'm sure the cost would be well worth it! Meanwhile I seem to learning just enough to be dangerous! Thanks

Point well takem LoveKraft. Thanks. I've reinstalled. Another setback though. I just plugged it all in. Very little if any reverb effect...but some tone changes when tone knobs are adjusted. Signal gets to amp when reverb is on. Most importantly, however, is that the transformer heated up and crackled some. I confess I replaced a really decrepit power cord since my last turn on. Suggestions? I hate to take it to a tech and lose it for 2 months.

Forget about a Fender acoustic. They seem to just market those to fill out their catalog and catch the occasional unsuspecting Fender enthusiast. Martin is a safe bet, but try some names as well. For a lot less money you may find a very sweet sounding instrument. If money isn't a huge issue, consider a boutique brand like Santa Cruz. They are consistently well made...they don't make that many each year. By the way, e-bay is a rugged place to buy an instrument unless you are willing to gamble. It is always best to actually hear the instrument you are considering. In any case, best of luck.

Those tip files are a great investment! They are just useful to have around, Even if you're not going to slot...or you have good slotting files, this little set is nice for other little jobs.

I was able to buy a large roll of copper foil on e-bay for about $8. The foil you find there won't usually have adhesive on the back, but actually I find it easier to work with. I don't know what shipping wouild be to Australia though, so it might not end up being that cheap. Good Luck

There shouldn't be a 1uF@400V cap anywhere in an unmodified 6G15: http://www.schematicheaven.com/fenderamps/..._6g15_schem.pdf There's a pair of .1uF caps in the original (output coupling caps), just like in the reissue. Out of curiosity, why are you replacing these caps if they're not electrolytics?

Lovecraft, Thanks! Regarding the replacement of the nonelectrolytics...Perhaps I shouldn't. I've been under the impression that replacement of all caps was a good idea. Unfortunately the leads are cut so short (close to the body) that resoldering them seems problematic. Will it damage the cap (plastic molded) to get solder up next to it...perhaps I can save them. Otherwise, I have orange drops of 0.1mf. Also, any idea why the old ones are labeled as they are. On "The Pedal Doctor" site, he has a picture of the blue caps in question. There's a hint of a decimal point, but it is hard to tell if it is that or just a speck. Mine DEFINITLY do not have a decimal point. In any case, I really appreciate the response.

I'm replacing the capacitors in an original 64 Fender reverb unit Model 6G15. There are two blue molded capacitors labeled 1mfd 400v. Although this would seem to be one microfarad at 400 volts, these are pretty uncommon capacitors. They are not electrolytic. I can't find a 1 mf capacitor on the schematic. The reissue model has two 0.1 mf at 400 v listed, but that is the reissue. Anyone have any knowledge of this? Thanks

Very good advice. I appreciate it.