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wood is good

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  1. Yes... THey are identical besides the pole pieces being at a different spacing.
  2. What about from the jack? Where did you ground the ground from the jack?
  3. Ive tried to use Epoxy. I scuffed the plastic binding sides, but There was NO adhesion at all. After the epoxy was dry, It just flaked off from the plastic binding.
  4. Can you get a better pic of the wiring? It looks like you dont have the switch grounded to either of the pots.
  5. It is VERY doable. There is even a tutorial on the main site: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm
  6. Why did you post this again?
  7. NO NO NO Im sorry Ihocky, I meant to quote Narcs post, not yours. Yours is correct. Sorry for the confusion.
  8. Yes, but is that compensating for the bevels? I thought for sure they were 1 3/4" too, because for a trem they use, It needs to be that thick.
  9. Well, I bought a bag right after i asked you about this... It diddnt work. I used a shop vac to draw the air out, but it still diddnt compress nearly as tight as I needed it to. There were lumps and unglued spots everywhere. I dont know how you did it, but Kudos for getting it done with that.
  10. No worries. I dotn think i have evefr seen an RR1 production run with a maple top. There are tons of custom shop Rhoads with maple tops. Just not regular USA RR1s. I have changed pickups on a RR1. The there was indeed a wire going to the pickup rout from the Jack. This was a mid 90s RR1, so I dont know if its changed with the Fender buyout or anything.
  11. Sure, the gets the credit. I said to do it that way like 4 days ago when you mentioned it in the off topics chat Ihocky, There are no RR1s with maple tops. There are also a few newer RR3s, and the RR5 that have the jack in that spot. They are all done just with a long bit to the bridge pickup cavity. On my template of a RR, the pickup cavity is only about 5.5" from where the jack would be. I see no problem drilling.
  12. Thanks Geo. I had that diagram bookmarked a LONG time ago. I went back to it, and forgot why i thought i could just take the tone off. I looked at it, and for some reason, thought the middle lug of the switch had to go to the tone first. I now remember why I saved the diagram, because you indeed can just remove it. Thanks for reminding me.
  13. Whatever man. Just because i cant figure out how to convert a diagram, doesnt mean i dotn know what im doing. I couldnt figure out how to eliminate the tone control from that diagram, because There was nowhere else to put the wire from the jack. I dont appreciate your lecture. I have been doing this a long time. Just because I am not an guitar electrical genius, doesnt mean I cant do a quality wiring job.
  14. Thanks J pierce. I think they have a minimum of a 15$ fee. Thats ok with me. I dotn really have anything else i need surfaced. Just the body blank and the top.
  15. I do know how they work... And that wasnt helpful at all. I went up to page 22 on google with the terms "2 volume no tone diagrams" and found nothing. Like i said, I want it the way i showed in the diagram. And yes i know, about the tone on 10. But that doesnt help, because he specificly wants 2 volume with no tone. If i could have, i would have done it that way in the first place. DOUG!! YOU FOUND IT!! THANK you so much.
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