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Razortalon

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About Razortalon

  • Birthday 06/28/1993

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    Florida

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  1. i must agree, i dislike tele headstocks. Great craftsmanship though! edit: sorry for the necropost, if it counts as one, I didn't notice it was a somewhat old thread until after I posted...
  2. Piles of coolness. I especially like how the almost violin-like cutaways on the sides clash with the nuclear theme. Usually themed guitars suck. But this is freaking awesome.
  3. Its done, except the frets. saws won't bit into this wood accurately, so i need some kind of fretboard wood to glue on. Plus I have a design issue with the bridge-the strings pull it sideways, so I can only fit 5 strings.
  4. If I can do it with a handsaw, a jigsaw will definitely work.
  5. Well, most of the design is done, so I'll give you more pictures than are really necessary instead I decided I'm probably going to go with real fretwire and real tuners, (because I have no drill to put a hole in a screw with), because I'm now kind of attached to this guitar, and I like the way it feels to hold, so I want it to play reasonably nicely. The neck isn't done being shaped yet, but it feels nice, and it seems incredibly strong. Are fretboards always raised above the body of the guitar? If so, I'll have to use shims to raise the entire neck out of the pocket. EDIT: Read picture posting rules, removed some to comply
  6. one last thing, how did you get the holes through the allen screws? A drill press? I'm thinking of just getting real tuners, because so far it's going quite well, and it'll be next to useless if I can't get it to tune properly. Also, what glue did you use for the frets? White glue doesn't seem strong enough.
  7. How did you get holes in the side of the allan bolt? Anyway, i cut an egg shape out of this small piece of hardwood i have, i think it's maple. I drill a hole for a screw in the large part of the egg, and cross the thin part, i drill a hole perpendicular to the screw (parallel to the body of the guitar). Screw it into the body of the guitar, and when its screwed almost all the way in, stick a string through the hole, and tune by turning the egg piece by hand. When done tuning, screw the screw in as far as you can, and it's locked in tune. Not very precise though. Could you explain your allan bolt method a bit more? it seems easier, but I don't really see what you're saying. Surprisingly, it doesn't seem to need too many tools. It looks ugly, but the only tough part about shaping it will be the neck, which I think is done by hand anyway. Obviously no pickups until I get a router though. EDIT: How can I change the thread title? It's not really pertinent anymore, and I can't find where you change it.
  8. Well, I'm making a practice guitar out of that cabinet, for free, with only stuff I already have, and with no power tools besides an electric screwdriver. I made one working tuner (and I can make more) from a piece of maple that was lying around and a screw (complicated process, not going to describe it unless someone wants me to.) It's one of those small "traveler" style guitars, with a string through at the "headstock", and the tuners behind the bridge. Not sure how I'm going to do the frets or truss rod... can I use regular metal wire glued in for the frets, considering it's not going to be a great playing guitar anyway? I'm thinking about a way to mount 6 more strings on the back, in little channels, to counteract the string tension, replacing a truss rod. How you cut a U shape out of wood? I can't see how I'd saw the bottom part of the U (keep in mind my only real saw is one of those long triangular ones, I think its called a handsaw.) Don't worry, when I build the real guitar, my dad will be around to help with my lack of knowledge of woodworking
  9. So I redesigned it starting with the correct scale length. I was assuming that if the scale is 25.5, the 12th is at 12.25 and the 24th is at 18.75, is this right, half and quarter divisions? Also, I had an interesting idea, what if the neck extended past the fretboard, long enough to include the pickups in the neck, and then make the pickups connect with clips like EMGs, so it has the upper fret access of a neck through, but the adjustability of a bolt on? Like a bolt on, but with a really long bolt on piece? The wraparound bridge is cool, but, alas, I have already ordered my parts.
  10. It is my first build, but I would feel kind of lame if I bought a pre-made neck. It's like, "look! I made this guitar sort of all by myself" Not that I have anything against people who buy necks, but I would rather not. I will be drawing this on AutoCAD before I start, but I won't have access to the program until I get to my dad's house. I figure I can start by putting the bridge where it looks good on the body, and offsetting a line 25.5in to find the nut, and then move the bridge and neck together until the neck pocket is right, is this wrong? The drawing actually has it string through, but since I'm going to have an extra tailpiece and no string ferrules (or whatever they're called) I'll probably use that. With the bridge, pickups and neck all moved forward 2.5in, it looks much better, and the string break angle over the bridge looks like it will be plenty, as I have enough space to put the tailpiece up to ~3in from the bridge, which is more than my Schecter has. The strap button will be on the bottom side of the left leg, looking at the picture. Ergonomics were the inspiration for this actually, because a V style will slide off your knee, and the straight line doesn't conform that well to the body. Obviously, it won't be perfect, but I'm hoping it will be better. It is that much harder to build a neck through? After all this discussion, it seems a bolt-on isn't that simple, really, and the extra sustain could do nothing but help.
  11. That was what I meant about the practice version, I have it all drawn out full size on some spare wood. It's a good thing you mentioned that about the 2-3/16, I was being sloppy, using a tape measure, and measured it as 2-1/4. I'm trying to optimize it so the bridge is as far towards the back as possible, because it seems like the shape is going to put it a little more towards my left (when playing) than most guitars, and I want to minimize the effect of that. And contrary to the drawing, I have an extra stop-tailpiece (i don't think thats the real word for it), so it probably won't end up being string through. So, I want the bridge/tailpiece as close to that cutout in the back of the guitar as possible. This post doesn't seem to make much sense, I think I need sleep.
  12. Well, that square around the body is 10 units by 7 units, with each unit being the width of one notebook paper line. (Thats what I get for designing a guitar in English class) make each unit 2in, so 20in by 14 in Edit: Ok, well I'm good there. I went to draw it full size on that piece of a dresser and the neck pocket of 6in looked too long, so i cut it back to 3.5, and moved the bridge and pickups and stuff 2.5in forward (keeping in mind that the neck must have a length so the scale of 25.5 is preserved)
  13. Holy jesus, how did I miss that??? I had the tuners near the outside, but i figured that would make the strings bend too sharply from the nut. That's a shame, I kind of like that headstock design. I would certainly agree that I don't know enough yet, which I why I'm starting my research now, with the goal of starting the guitar when I go visit my dad (Who lives in another state) around christmas. My current level of knowledge is just from reading through a few build threads. I will definitely try to get my hands on that book, it's not the first I've heard of it, and it seems to be very highly recommended. As it happens, I am currently making a quick prototype practice version out of an old dresser we were going to throw away to see if any issues (such as the headstock) pop up. Any other glaringly obvious mistakes? Edit: I'm trying to look up tenons, and I understand what they are, basically, but everything I see about them is in regard to a set neck construction. Are they still applicable with a bolt-on?
  14. I think you can copyright it as the name of a guitar, if I understood correctly. The Schecter's 25.5, and this will be too. It's not really a v, except that it has two legs. It looks like this This will be my first guitar, so I would like to build everything, but I'm not very confident I'm my ability to cut the fret slots accurately. I may go with a pre-made fretboard, but maybe not. Definitely 24 frets though. What is a "tenon"? I looked at the Warmoth V, the joint doesn't look very strong, but I guess it is. For a first guitar, I probably won't go neck through, just because I would probably screw up the neck angle. I won't put the schecter neck on permanently, but I may bolt it on for a few minutes out of impatience, because I want to play it or something. What you were saying about adding more frets, wouldn't they get ridiculously small?
  15. Well, I like the 25.5 scale length, plus i'm talking about a larger difference than .75 inches, although I'm not sure exactly because the way I drew the guitar isn't terribly precise. Oh! Wait! I was looking at the older version. On the newer one, the neck pocket seems to extend too far into the guitar. ~6 in compared to around 3.5 on my schecter. That's easier to correct though, you just cut off the top of the neck pocket until it's 3.5 in. I think I've got this solved.
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