Workingman

My bad in that I didn't notice the fret board is already slotted. I am with Bizman62, a little up-bow will probably be countered with the compression from installing the frets. Your rods look pretty tight so I doubt them slipping is a problem.

Two things, measurements of how much of an up-bow would be helpful. If the carbon fiber rods are two stiff, the string may not pull the neck into enough bow for suficiant relief. In that case of the bow is fairly small it may be a good thing. The second is that in my experience, carbon fiber rods are installed with epoxy which holds it in place. CA glue may have left them too loose to stop the bowing.

That is one nice looking build. Are you going to set it up for heavy strings to counter the floppy low B on the short scale or is it going with a high C fifth string?

I agree with Drak. That is a plywood guitar. It still could be a decent instrument. You have lost the thickness of one ply which may or may not be a problem. To fix this you need to clean off all the existing glue on the bottom of the bridge as well as on the guitar. You also have to remove all of the wood sticking to the bottom of the bridge. Then place the bridge on the guitar and use a straight edge along the string path to see if you can still get decent string height. You may have to replace the saddle with a taller one but if much more than half the saddle height is above the slot you can have problems. There should be a reinforcing bridge pad under the top. Use a mirror to make sure it is in good shape. If all checks out I would glue it up with Titebond or other good wood glue. Normally I like hide glue but Titebond has better gap filling for this one.

That is stunning!

Very cool build idea. I confess the idea of planing that makes me shudder at all the tearout I would get.

This is very cool. I am Facebook friends with Adrian Below (only met him once) I would like to share pics of the finished product with him with your permission.

If you can't get a clamp in place, I have used magnets with good results.

I will post some. Not much to see right now.

I am very slowly restoring a Pfishner (sp?) aluminum upright bass. Unlike the Alcoa ones this one has a real wood neck, bracing, etc. Your approach looks similler, perhaps more conservative, so it should work.

Nice work. I don't thin you have to worry that you stole the first one. A pro would charge a minimum of $300 to repair it and it still would show. The value of the work you are doing exceeds the re-sale price on the instrument. So I think you and the seller did well.

Cool!

Surgical tubing can be used to clamp irregular surfaces.

Nicely done. I am in the process of working on a Stanley No. 4.

She looks great. I think you may have to get them a dog next.