AlanS

Yep...An amplified acoustic...

This is what I was thinking about...Nice shape, electrify it...

How, exactly, do I post a pic? I have iPhoto...but that doesn't seem to matter.

Here's my fantasy: I build an electric - acoustic guitar for my son ( a pretty darn good musician). I am 60, built furniture most of my life...so I am comfortable with wood. My son is a free lance musician...has numerous guitars (Martin acoustic, Epiphone acoustic, Gibson SG, Fender Strat)....but aside from the pick up on his Martin, he lacks a hand built electric acoustic. I havent' a clue where to start. I have a pic of something I think looks really cool, and will post if you want. I have read about the bodies, but it's the neck that spooks me...precision/ shape/ fretting. Wood suppliers? I am just hunting right now for input...first timer advice...

Its a very small world these days....Anyways...It seems that I cannot use the PM system here. Bardsong: Please E-Mail me at Psychler(at)optonline[dot]net I am very interested. By the way...my son has a Martin 0000 series...so I hope the 0/00 size will suit him .

How do I get in touch with you? I was told to ask you this: "See if he has 0 or 00 size kits. Build it the same as a steel string except use a classical style bracing structure (ie: will have to source your own bracing material, that's it. Also cheap). Be a great little first project. Also see if he has non-Sitka top options (like lutz) and/or tops without the sound hole cut yet so you have control over the size. " Psychler(at)optonline[dot]net

My son has a Martin acoustic guitar. He has an opportunity to play in an acoutstic group but would need to add a pickup to his 'axe'. He did an inquiry at his local NYC shop and they said that there are two types: One goes under the bridge, then the end strap holder is drilled out and an input is put in place. The other method is 'just' an add-on pickup... Any suggestions? Input, please! Alan.

Old Epiphone acoustic steel string. My son's guitar...someone 'sat' on the neck. The stress caused a separation between the neck and fingerboard for about 1.5" from the nut to the second fret. I cannot 'open' the split, but it's there. How would this be repaired? Someone suggested 'Super Glues' with clamping since I cannot get a gap to open.

My son had a Kramer Focus 7000 guitar 'lying' around. I decided to be a great dad and have it 'tuned'. Turns out the neck truss rod is damaged. Mechanic showed me that it is at it's limit and when strung, it's bow was dramatic. Can I get a neck to fit that body so I don't lose on the rest of the bass? Technician said that the electronics were fine. The body is flawless...no nicks, etc. A shame to dump an instrument because of the neck. P.S...I did the E-Bay search...no Kramer Focus 7000's.

I am a woodworker, established cabinetmaker, etc. Not done any musical instruments. My son is a guitarist. I see that he has an old 'crappy'(according to him) bass he has left in my home. The body is shot. My idea is to take it apart, scrap the body and build him a new one using the existing neck. He can figure out what electronics he wants. It's a basic 'Fender' shape (not a Fender). It's fairly easy for me to make a template and duplicate the body. Questions: *When I veneer furniture, I ALWAYS apply veneer on front and back of a substrate. I see that you all apply 1/4" tops to solid bodies...no backs. No problems with this 'one sided affair'? *I have 5/6 and 6/6" lumber in the shop... maple, mahogany, birch. I also have 1/4" stuff lying around (figured woods, etc). Is there a difference in the wood I use for the body blank? Since it is a solid body, does the tone get effected? Does it matter how thick I make the laminate top? *Is there a way to 'sculpt' the blank and 'bend' the top layer to match the sculpt? Or is 'carving' the way it's done? I do use a vacuum press here, but with thin veneers. I can get a curve, but not compound curves (obviously). * And finally...with the 'semi hollow' designs...the hollowed back with the layered top (with F hole)...is any bracing needed in the top? Or does the remaining amount of core act as the brace. I like the look and seems that the weight can get reduced greatly. Thanks for taking the time to read this. I would also appreciate any recommended books/ websites, etc. that would answer these types of questions. A.