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About toneblind

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  1. Does the material used for pickup mounting rings matter? At my work, we are installing a huge waterjet machine and I'm thinking I could design a set of unique pickup mouting rings to be cut from from aluminum.
  2. Thanks for the feedback. I just ordered the "Slate Black" patina solution from Sculpt Nouveau. According to the nice woman I spoke to, this is the only patina solution that will darken aluminum. My goal is not to have a relic'd guitar, just something with unique aesthetics that I'll enjoy learning to play.
  3. All the hardware on and for my guitar is gold plated. I didn’t set out to have a gold equipped guitar; just that I got lucky as heck and found a new (not awful quality) set neck hollow-body guitar (w/ case), a Schaller roller bridge and a left handed Gretsch/Bigsby B6G all for less than $200 (got to love Craigslist). Now, the problem is, I don’t like gold plating…at all… I’m not a big fan of chrome either. My plan is to media blast the hardware bits with glass bead to remove the plating. Depending on what the bead blasted parts look like, I may stop there and just shoot a clear
  4. Thanks for the advice. Since I wasn't able to find any videos on the technique, I made one:
  5. Any advice on removing the stop bar threaded inserts? I’m installing a Bigsby B6G on my current project (ES 335 Copy) and the threaded inserts for the original stop bar will be left behind and unused. I’ll be refinishing the guitar (with a painted top), so I’d like to pull these out and plug the holes. Is there some experienced Luther’s trick for pulling inserts without damaging the top?
  6. I'm in the process of converting a Cielo Sadona (ES-335 copy) from right handed to left handed. When it's done, I want to paint the whole thing one opaque color. It's currently sunburst w/ white binding (I think it's supposed to be ivory binding, but it's really bright white. Ironically, the binding on the neck and F holes is definitely ivory. My question is, are there any special preparations for painting over binding? Should I prime just the binding 1st with a plastic friendly paint?
  7. I'm the same way with 11's. It's the perfect amount of tension for me, and anything else messes me up. Thanks for the input. I'll be starting him off on a set of 10's.
  8. Does anyone out there have a CAD file (*.dwg or *.dxf) for a Gibson Flying V? I've already got a basic AutoCAD drawing of a '59, but I'd like to find a CAD file of a newer model to be able to compare the body geometry. Thanks, Mike
  9. I just finished assembling a solid body guitar for my son. He designed the body, I made it from Poplar and we used a bolt on neck from a basket case Washburn Mavrick series. (I know, Poplar was not the best wood but this is my first ever instrument build, it was available, it's a painted project and the guitar will most likely spend eternity simply hanging on a bedroom wall). My son also wanted to incorporate a tremolo so I found a version of a Floyd Rose style tremolo. I need to re-string the guitar and adjust the tremolo...what gauge strings should I look into? I put a B
  10. Good job on the bench. It looks sturdy. For the top, what about making a loose overlay made from particle board. Make it oversized such that you can attach strips of wood to the underside to keep it centered on your benchtop. That way you can have a nice level and smooth surface when needed and when you need to pound on something or possible make a mess, lift off the overlay and let the dimensional lumber top take a beating. If you did that, you might want to think about incorporating the router table insert into the overlay. The reason I suggest that is that if you need to
  11. Thanks for the compliments. Sound? Right now it sounds dusty, that is due to that there is simply no time to mess around with it. Since mid February, I've been putting in 15 hour days in the office. When I finally do get some time to play (or attept to play in my case), it does sound good (to my ear). One thing thing I've noticed though, since installing the Bigsby, there seems to be no noticible effect on string bends. For example, I been trying to learn the intro to Joe Walsh's "Funk 49", which starts of with a couple of heavy bends on the G string. Befo
  12. Did you build that surface sander? If so, it's a beyond awesome job!!!!! I've had an 80% complete design for building one on my CAD station for years and have most of the parts necessary, but until seeing that finished product, didn't have the motivation to actually build it. Now I must build one. Using the drive from a table saw is a great idea. A bunch of questions if you don't mind... What HP motor are you using? Is the sanding drum made up with layered up disks of plywood? What is the diameter? Is the spiraled sand paper held on with velcro or adhesive? If adhes
  13. FWIW, "Pfeister Guitars" sounds much more professional than "Storybird Guitars". If I had $1000 burning a hole in my pocket and was shopping for a guitar builder, I'd be more inclined to look into Pfeister Guitars than the onethat sounds like they make kids instruments. Just my opinion.
  14. Check out: http://www.floydrose.com/instructions.html
  15. I'll pre-qualify this by adding that I have almost no experience in guitar work...but this is an idea for getting around a loose bolt-on neck pocket. This past weekend, my son and I made a "rough draft" of a guitar body he designed. We used a 1.75" thick slab of glued up particle board. The neck for his design is a bolt on neck from a Washburn BT-2. The idea is to do any experimental carving and shaping on the cheap particle board version, developing the near-net shape, before cutting into the costly body blank. I routed the neck pocket freehand using a 3/4" mortising bit.
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