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This is good to know because I was considering buying one of their kits. Let me know how it turns out. Are you going to do photos of the build/finish process?

Disclaimer: Handmade, hand carved, etc guitars are exempt This might be a highly subjective and loaded question, but what makes an expensive guitar better than a cheaper model besides country of origin and name brand parts? If you do a nice setup on a $99 Squier and throw on some improved hardware/pickups...what makes a Fender Strat better? The time it takes for quality craftsmanship is an obvious reason as is the difference in labor costs in the country of origin, but since a lot of the work on "off the shelf" guitars are done by machine and final assembly is left to humans...is the extra cost name brand parts and attention to the setup? Probably a stupid question, but I can't help thinking that a decent cheap guitar can be just as good as guitars 10x the cost with a little work. For example, I bought a Jay Turser JT-300 and after some tweaking it feels and looks just as nice as my USA made Charvel So-Cal. Again, that is highly subjective and the Floyd Rose on my Charvel costs more than double what I paid for the Jay Turser.

Even though we already settled the transaction outside of the forum I just wanted to pop-in so any other readers don't think I bailed on you. This is the medium/wide one. Thank you for the quick payment...it's on it's way! Let me know if any issues.

Invoice sent. Let me know any issues pop up.

That works for me! What is your e-mail address so I can send a paypal invoice? Shipping will be USPS Priority Mail (at my expense) and I can drop it off this evening because right now I'm at work. Since I'm kinda new here and don't have a reputation in this community you can use my eBay profile (therecordingart1) for verification that I'm decent.

I thought I was doing to teach myself how to do fret work, but I'm a chicken. I have a 6" Stew Mac fret file and their double edged crowning file that were each used twice. These are $39 each on the Stew Mac site, but how does $65 shipped in the U.S. sound for both? Crowning file sold to sdshirtman. How does $30 shipped in the US sound for the 6" fret file?

Nut question: I purchased a Karosa neck from eBay and the nut is in bad shape. I've never made my own nut before so I'm thinking that getting a preslotted nut would be the best bet. I took the measurements and I can find preslotted nuts that are the same length, but the thickness or height might be slightly off (by like .2 mm). This might be a dumb question, but how tight of a tolerance is there in selecting the closest fit? If I get something with the correct length, but with slight variances in the other dimensions should I be ok? Which dimensions would you say are most crucial? Should I be worried about string spacing? Bridge placement: I've never built a guitar before and want to start with a six string cigar box guitar. I'm not sure how far back the bridge will need to be placed. I'm planning on using this bridge. http://store.guitarfetish.com/topmohabrfit.html Thank you for the help!

ESP Arming Adjuster - missing screws and felt $45 shipped in the U.S. Softube Metal Amp Room iLok license - $100 (iLok transfer included)

Thank you guys! Got the frets in just fine. I have a two other junk guitars laying around that needed fret leveling, and that was a huge success. I think that I'm going to be spending just as much time futzing around as I will be playing.

I'm new to the community and I've been playing guitar about 14 years (I'm 26). I've always wanted to learn how to build/repair/maintain guitars, and now that I have a few "junkers" I'm using them as my learning tools. My first guitar was a Squier Strat with a maple neck, and it's been out of commission for a few years now. Most of the frets are dented or lifting so I've decided to use this as my opportunity to learn how to fret a guitar. I've been skimming through Dan Erlewine's Guitar Player Repair Guide, and I have the frets removed using his suggestions. Luckily, I didn't pull up big chunks of wood removing the frest like warned in Dan's book, but it's definitely roughed up a bit where the frets lay (little pieces missing). What do you recommend to smooth it out before laying down the new frets? I don't have Dan's "special fret hammer" and wanted to see if there is something I can pick up at Home Depot that will work equally well? I'm a newb so go easy on me. I'm not a slouch and I don't expect to have such a great skill come easily. I'll use the search function before making stupid "newb" posts to keep the signal to noise ratio low. Any help or tips are greatly appreciated!