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MuffinPunch

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Everything posted by MuffinPunch

  1. I think I kinda see what youre talking about, the problem is wiring the leads from the pickups to a jack or plug that can be inserted into a mated plug or jack where the continuation leads are wired to the electronics. Then I have to figure out how and where to mount those plugs/jacks...
  2. I like it flat black as well, but what you cant see from the crappy phone camera pics is that the surface is pretty fugly. Anyway, I still plan to do the Giger graphic on the top. It will probably be matte over the clear. I agree, I dont fancy using the solderless wiring as Ive heard bad things about it. I had intended on developing a "quick-connect" like feature that is embedded into the corner of the core that connects itself when you plug the core into the body. Ill work it out eventually.
  3. So ive searched the forum for responses to similar problems, but my specific problem doesnt seem to be common. Im having trouble wiring my 7 string build, due to the fact that I dont really know much about electronics and because the parts im using for the wiring are slightly different from those pictured in the wiring diagrams I have found. Im using 2 EMG-HZ 707 pickups (passive) and a prewired EMG vol/tone pot package connecting to a 3 way selector switch and a flush mount stereo jack. The prewird kit includes 2 quick-connect wires which are pre-soldered at the green and bare wires and at th
  4. Im a bit bummed that I didnt get this finished before school closed up... I did get the first few coats of primer on the body and core top and sanded them down relatively smooth. I had to assemble the thing and string it up for final presentation anyway and all things considered it went very well. I have learned a great deal with this build overall though. The main point being that: Unless you have absolutely no responsibilities outside of building guitars and can travel to and from your shop within a few minutes of your home, building 4 guitars simultaneously with a goal of completing at leas
  5. Its good to see youre enjoying this project. Although its not really to my taste, and I would never use any product from Harbor freight to build a guitar with. Im a student so I understand the budget thing, but "Harbor Freight" is Chinese for "poop". You'll end up spending just as much if not more money fixing and replacing bad tools than you would getting good ones in the first place. Personally I prefer the P-Bass over what youve done. I think a refinishing would have been more appropriate, but thats just me. In the future, you will find that starting from a new piece of wood will be even mo
  6. No, it shouldn't be too snug. Ill be sanding it down quite a bit anyway before final gloss, but it was quite a loose fit to begin with. Maybe too loose. Since I am making a mould out of this at some point in the future, the surface need to be class A for casting. The core itself still needs a bit of sanding and Im leaving the back and sides "natural" with just clear over it so I can always tweak it a bit before final fitting.
  7. Got the heel transition dialed in the other day. I also spent some time sculpting the joint so that the transition feels more subtle. I feel I have a pretty good start of finish sanding, so since the body is going to be opaque, I decided to go with a black poly primer coat. This way, even if I dont get it completed by thurs (presentation day) it looks close to the way its supposed to. Heres a teaser, I wont update this thread until I can plug her in and make some noise with her...
  8. I used templates. I took measurements off the Ibanez website for the Wizard 7 neck and went from there. So I had a goal for the 1st and 12th frets. I realized only afterwords that it would have been more efficient to have rough shaped the heel and HS transition ( no volute) prior to carving the neck between the 1st and 12th frets. Once again, a sureform would really have made short work of it. Unfortunately the spindle sander at school is only any use if your using drums larger than 6" in diameter. The sanding sleeves on anything smaller than that literally slip off due to abuse and neglect.
  9. I completely agree with you there. I may have been exaggerating a bit with the 3 hours comment. It was probably more like 1 hour 45 min, but it felt like forever and my palms feel all bruised up from the rasp handle. On my practice neck I carved a few weeks back I used a round sureform which worked amazingly. Unfortunately I did not have access to one last night and I just wanted to go for it anyway. I am convinced using a sureform would easily cut the time down by half if not more. I think with a bit more practice I could speed up the process substantially, but as this is my first time and I
  10. Then I spent an hour and a half carving the neck and another 3 hours shaping the heel and HS transition last night with nothing but my 12" half-round rasp, a spokeshave and some 100 grit sandpaper. My phone battery died so I didnt get any pics of the carving unfortunately, but this is the result. My hands are still killing me, but Im satisfied with the result. The next one will be even better! So this is how she stands (or lays). Nothing left to do but some finish sanding and paint before final assembly and setup! Unfortunately I have to build this thing digitally from the ground up
  11. StewMac 16" fret press insert in a chunk of scrap maple. Best $5 I evers pent. Made fretting this a breeze. 4 feet of LMII extra jumbo pre bent gold fretwire was BARELY enough. I used GuitarNut's fretwire saving method to stretch it out as far as I possibly could. Not bad for a first go, eh?
  12. Then I built a little jig to radius the fretboard with my homemade, laser cut sanding block, and went to town. lots of dust. 60 min. later. Sorry for the crappy phone pic...
  13. Thats better. Then I went ahead and routed the pickup cavities. They didnt come out perfect, but good enough for for now. The next one will be better. After that it was time to install the fretboard. Im a huge proponent of using a clamping cowl for this. As you all know, this is my first fretboard installation and it came out perfectly with no gaps whatsoever. And I only had to use 6 clamps. I double stick taped a strip of 10 lbs. blue foam to the surface of the cowl for added protection. Dont know if this gave any added value, but it theoretically kept the ebony fingerboard from sli
  14. Despite what many of you may think, I have not been idle. This thing is trucking along and since I know how a little over a week to complete it, some decisions have been made. As far as school is concerned, I have been focusing on finishing up just the one. The graphic on the top will now bw sand blasted into the finish of the guitar after clear rather in the wood before primer, and the casting will have to wait. My other 2 builds have also been on hold for the time being. So... progress: I started to drill the mounting holes and string thru holes and ferrule cavities into the core, but I
  15. Oh no! What a waste man! Cant you just plane the top down and start again from there?
  16. It took me a while to warm up to the not-so-subtle transition from the flat-top to the carve edge, but now I love this thing. Nice shots too! At least one of these recent builds NEEDS to be in GOTM!
  17. I gotta agree there! Im usually not a fan of fancy woods, but that is awsome!! GOTM anyone?
  18. Mistakes or not, great progress man! Really nice workmanship overall. My only gripe is about the "carve" inside the lower horn. It looks really soft and smooth, but the rest of the edges of the guitar are nice and crisp. Its a small thing, but theres a definite disconnect in the design there.
  19. I like "pro" fretboard without inlays the best, after that the MOP. What about Abalone?
  20. Sounds like most of us share a similar view where design is concerned. And though I realize many of you probably didnt intend on "defending" my design with your replies, I appreciate it all the same. Sardine, you made it more plain than I ever could with just a few words. \m/
  21. Thanks. I really am learning a ton developing these designs and seeing them through. Damn right.Haters be hatin' Thanks not anymore, anyways I had stated earlier that it looked like LGMs shape. I really dont care if people copy any design... They are just designs. the only time it should EVER matter is if the copier is taking away business from the original designer... which, 99% of the time, is not eve possible. I feel credit should definitely be given, but i really dont see why people care so much about a "copy" It doesnt even matter. While I appreciate and agr
  22. HOW DARE YOU?!?!! lol Those are cool! I really like the Aces High one! If you want the templates I made I can post them up in the downloads section of the forum... I think you should make one too! We all should!!! In other news, I got my Floyd the other day, so I will be drilling the last few holes before finish sanding, then its primer for this baby! Ill be working on the necks at the same time, so dont expect anything too soon. Ill finish up one of them first since Im running short on time for my other projects. The other will be on the back burner for a few months I think.
  23. Dude, are you f-ing kidding me?!?! Get over it! Youre obviously trying to be an azz. I was simply excited about the prospect of getting this thing done! I respect the opinions of people on this forum and wanted to share my excitement with them. So ,my guitar design happens to have elements similar to other guitar designs. For accusing me of being unoriginal, you sure say the same thing a lot. This is like the third or fourth time you pointed out that my guitar looks like a cross between an Ibanez, the LGM Leviiathan, and Metalheads HS. I get it, you dont think I designed it. Fine, you're entit
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