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MuffinPunch

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Everything posted by MuffinPunch

  1. Thats a good point. I honestly couldnt say. I bought the bit to cut my battle axe guitar and it hasnt seen any use since, but that maple was HARD! It wouldnt surprise me if it dulled the blade.
  2. I asked the guys in the shop at school for advice in filling those cracks and I got a whole bunch of different responses as well. So I took a varied approach; one that Im already counting on getting a lot of grief from you guys about... But for my purposes it worked out perfect. I went with a thick CA (Slow ZAP) and drizzled many layers into the end grain of the split area. The fumes dont bother me, but it took a good hour of drizzling. Then after sanding the area down using a combination of belt, spindle, and random orbital sanders to reveal the air pockets within the cracks, I simply
  3. Would you suggest the epoxy instead then? Or thin CA rather than medium?
  4. I hadnt needed to think about this until now, but would it be advisable to finish shaping the body and sand blast the recessed graphic into the front before I attempt to fill the split gaps? I just worry that the dried CA (or whatever I end up using) will hold up better to sand blasting than the alder around it, leaving "veins" in that area of the graphic. I had originally planned to finish this body using waterborne automotive base coat over polyester primer, and topped with automotive clear. Im not opposed to doing it differently though. I have even speculated on the idea of using a powder
  5. Im usually not a huge fan of guitars that are all made of fancy, spalted woods, but this thing is AMAZING!
  6. This was never meant to be sold. It is just a prototype. My bet is that it occurred because of a combination of the factors you all have mentioned. There was no sign of issues on the blank itself, aside from the obvious knots, prior to this. (Not that I would really know what to look for... ) Unfortunately I wasnt there to monitor The cutting process either. I submitted my digital file and my material with explicit instructions in case I wasn't, by I didnt foresee something like this. I think Ill go with the medium CA approach. I hate sanding epoxy!
  7. Got the body cut today. I didnt realize Alder was so temperamental under the mill... Or maybe I just got a bad piece. I had some serious splitting occur at the butt end of the body. I was so careful to make sure the cutter avoided all the gnarly knots in the wood, but there was no way of knowing this was hiding in there. Is this something that can be corrected with grain filler, or will it require more work than that? The body will be painted opaque, so Im not worried about it showing through the finish or anything. Just want to get it smooth as glass before I cast it in the mould.
  8. I cant help but wonder why you would want to do a Christmas theme in June... Green and Red?
  9. Looking good! You may have already gone over this somewhere in the thread, but your neck heels are quite a bit deeper than a traditional tele, aren't they? Im getting ready to start shaping my Strat necks (oops, San Dimas necks) and from what Ive understood, the heel depth is pretty close to the same thickness of the neck with a slight taper up to the head, about 3/4". Nothing wrong with doing it differently, just wanna make sure Im understanding it correctly. Aren't Strat and Tele necks pretty similar in shape?
  10. Love the graphic. Im looking to do a similar HS graphic for my Maiden USA Jackson copies, but Im having trouble deciding how to go about it. I thought doing the "Jackson" waterslide graphic as an abalone inlay would distinguish it enough, but now Im not sure... I guess well see. Great work on this one man!
  11. Body blanks glued up. Gotta get new neck blanks cut. Stupid miscalculation... Got my truss rods and fretwire in today and the fretboards are on order along with the abalone dots.
  12. More progress today! Got the neck lams all glues up today as well as the body blank. Should be on the CNC by next Wednesday. I also got my fretwire, nuts, and truss rods in. The rest is on its way...
  13. Thanks, at some point I would like to make one like that. Ive never been a big fan of playing Vs, they just feel a bit awkward to me. For some reason all of my guitar design come out very goth... Im not at all gothic, but I guess im just drawn to that aesthetic.
  14. Thanks. I agree with both of you. Im hoping the graphic engraving will draw some of the focus away from the innards. I also plan to "frost" the engraving and inside of the control cavity if not the entire back of the guitar. I hope to get all my wood laminated up this week, so Ill have the body blank ready for the CNC by next weekend, and I can start shaping the neck(s) by hand.
  15. Thats hot! I love the back carve. In general, I prefer a blood red, or trans black finish for almost everything, but I cant deny that this one looks like it should be natural!
  16. Spent some time today on the CAD file. I decided to go with a 1 1/4" deep core and a 1/2" back to the body. Even though the body wont be bearing any of the load from the string tension, 1/4" was just too skinny. This way Ill at least have enough space to countersink the bolts in the back. FIrst in clear Then in black I didnt model the graphic into the model because Im going to "etch" that part out with the sandblaster. These were done in SolidWorks. My first time using the software, bit of a learning curve for me, but these will suffice. Itll be trickier building the core... Should h
  17. Ive inquired of some of the guys on here who make custom fretboards, but the prices seem to be a little steep for me unfortunately. StewMac sells Maple ones with a compound radius for $16, and Ebony ones for $45. Seems like a pretty good deal compared to what custom ones go for.
  18. I got the wood for this and my San Dimas project finally! The lumber pile Alder body plank walnut and maple neck lams I decided to go with a 7 piece laminated core 1.5" deep (thick) to go with my 7 string configuration. I also think I will make them both a 26.5" scale rather than the 25.5" I originally had chosen. Im debating whether or not its would be necessary to add carbon neck reinforcements due to the added tension of the extra string and longer scale. Any insight? Things should really start progressing very quickly now. I ordered the rest of my shaping tools, truss rods,
  19. Finally bought the wood for this and my seven string project. Raw lumber from the yard including the stuff for my other project. The alder plank. The maple neck blanks the alder is a bit knotty, but I should be able to work around those spots fairly easily. Things will progress very quickly at first, but I dont think ill be finishing this for a while after I get the basics done. I also bought my shaping tools, fret wire and truss rods. Im looking into the fretboards. Im going use a compound radius, but Im not really up to trying to tackle that on my own so Ill probably end up o
  20. Ive seen that before. At school I think. The guy who designed it graduated from my school 4-5 years ago and left the original prototype mounted on one of the walls for a while. Ive been looking for his websight forever! Thanks man. I was referring to copywright regulations and similar issues when I mentiond the patents, because I was sure I wasnt the first to think of this.
  21. Thanks. Yeah thats exactly what i had in mind. Initially I was picturing this on a much larger scale, like for distribution in major guitar dealers (in theory), but like I said, I dont know if theres even a market for his kind of guitar or if people would chose to order this as opposed to a standard bolt on or neck thru guitar considering the price wouldnt be that much different if I was doing it all by hand. If it caught on tho, i might find myself in the guitar making business after all! Of course then Id need to start worrying about patents and all that political bs...
  22. I think if they were not in too close proximity and they were relatively weak magnets it wouldnt have any noticeable effect on the pickups, but I dont know for sure. Hopefully youll be seeing that sawdust a lot sooner than you think! Of course ive been saying that about my IM San Dimas for over 2 months now and I havent even shopped for wood yet...
  23. Thanks. Exactly the kind of response I was looking for. I still have to work out the electronics issues. I would really like to be able offer a core with a three pick-up configuration that would still compatible with the standard electronics setup of the bodies. Is there a feasible way of doing that? Maybe all bodies come with dormant female connections for a 3rd pickup which are only employed when the core is equipped with a third pickup and female connector? I may be getting into circuit programming territory here, which im really not interested in. I have a very basic understanding of guita
  24. Ok, well since this is an ever evolving idea and nothing physical has happened yet, I dont feel too bad throwing another wrench into the mix. The wild idea i had about making a purely "artistic" non-player version of this guitar is being scrapped. The guitar has become more conceptual in nature. Basically, the idea is now to have a guitar "core" which contains all major elements (headstock, tuners, nut,neck/fretboard, pickups, bridge, etc.) which bolts into an interchangable body variant made out of different materials which contains the other essential components (volume/tone controls, pi
  25. Truthfully, im no metal worker either. Ive got a tiny bit of welding and lathe experience, but nothing to give me the confidence that I could actually do this myself. I suffer from wanting to learn EVERYTHING and not have the time to learn anything... Im attempting to change that tho. Ideally the CAD data I come up with could be taken to a machine shop and the labor could be done by a professional (or a machine) if I do it right. I will be making the plastic parts myself tho. I will SLA (stereo lithograph) the components individually using the digital data, make moulds of each piece, and c
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