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Crusader

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Everything posted by Crusader

  1. I know a guy who has a Tele and its where I got all my Tele specs from. I didn't notice if the ferrules were flush or not. Its some kind of anniversary model (60 iirc) After a quick google they were non-flush during the CBS era So some Tele's do and some Tele's don't. I was thinking if I got them to be flush I could get them to line up more accurately, but I have too many things to do!
  2. Getting a lot of work lately due to another carpenter going off to live in Cervantes. However I still manage to get some progress on important things now and then, and I don't mean mowing the grass Here's my effort at drilling String Ferrules. I think I need a drill press that can reach far enough to drill the body, never mind...... Not perfect but its done If I do any more Fender style guitars I don't think I will bother with Ferrules. Its nice to think you're getting more vibration into the wood but its quite a hassle to do and I keep forgetting they're there. Like when putting the guitar on a table top. I wonder why its rocking and suddenly realise the ferrules are probably scratching the table!
  3. I have thought of doing that with my 59 Reissue and just do away with Single Coil switching
  4. I've bought a couple of Gibson "Non wire" ABR-1 bridges recently which have un-notched saddles https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/all-hardware-and-parts-by-instrument/electric-guitar-parts/electric-guitar-bridges-and-tailpieces/tune-o-matic-bridges/gibson-historic-non-wire-abr-1-tune-o-matic-bridge/#mz-expanded-view-1218363792368
  5. I would be too, looking good! Totally agree with that!
  6. Be patient and make plans either full sized or 50% or what ever you prefer Here is a diagram I made for a project to give the idea
  7. Yes after a Google mine looks the same. I took one look at it and scared the crap out of me LOL! so I used a regular switch thinking its "just for now" but........ When I was putting this Strat together the Push-Pull pot was literally the only 250k pot I had so it went in and its doing the B&N job for me. I had all sorts of ideas (ie.) that I might chuck the Tele bridge out in favour of a Humbucker one day, but now its all together, no way, that Tele Antiquity is staying right where it is! And this monster of a switch will go into some future project!
  8. Hi Alex, I tried the Bridge in the Middle position but I kept knocking it and it was just weird so I used a Push-Pull switch and currently have 6 combinations. This is okay but it has the ability to have all 3 pickups on at the same time, which I don't like Being my own guitar I can try different things as much as I want. I haven't tried Curtisa's wiring suggestion yet, but can you really get the desired combinations with a regular switch?
  9. Yes the fretboard does look a bit high to me (but not much) Here's some photos of my 59 Reissue LP, hope they help, keep in mind your bridge may have different dimensions Line of top of frets is 14mm at the bridge Looking at it another way, the underside of the 4th string is 16mm, in other words the height of the saddle. But also note how much space there is between the body and the bottom of the adjusting wheel, its about 5mm
  10. Hi everyone When I put my Strat together I found I only had one 250k pot. So I used a 500 in Tone. If I just turn it down a bit will that be exactly the same as having a 250k pot, or is there some weird science that will make it not quite the same?
  11. More progress on My Strat, a few photos I was aiming at 23 but just under 22 is good, and 24mm at the 12th fret is also good In past projects I have messed up and gone under 43mm at the Nut, I am very happy about this one. Nice and wide all the way The finished Neck My so-professional spray booth. Sunny day in the winter, no bugs flying around, just perfect Was going to use cream covers but went with all black, I only have one cream Vol control Couldn't find any suitable springs so I used foam from some packaging. Not sure its the best idea but its okay for now And finally the back cover All done except the finish is a bit rough. Used Tele knobs and it keeps the Tele theme going very nicely. I think I will call it "Stoutocaster"
  12. The plug looks pretty good I reckon, nice work
  13. Thanks Bizman, I have only two controls but I will study the diagram to see what I can get from it cheers
  14. Hi, I have a Strat 5-way Super Switch and I've googled for answers but I'd have to read a few days worth of material All I want to do is get Neck and Bridge instead of Neck and Middle You can get this by wiring the Bridge to the middle position but it would lead to confusion So can the Super Switch get the desired options and keep Bridge pu in back position? Cheers
  15. Dang! everyone else's work looks so good compared to mine....
  16. Thanks for the replies, all good advice although I'm pretty sure I checked the flatness just before putting frets in. Also, putting frets in might cause some back-bow, but I imagine that would result in all the frets being high...? Could it be (look at first photo) it looks like a lot has been taken off but is actually consistent with the tiny gap under the fret?
  17. Man those inlays, how tf do you do those things? Trace around with pencil and go free-hand with a Dremel? I have no patience nor the concentration levels to do such things!
  18. I found a few high frets in my Strat and Tele but it seems I file more off the top than what the gap looks like at the bottom. So I'm wondering if the height of the fret wire is consistent. What is other people's experience? Fretwire I use is Stewmac wide/tall
  19. Found this is a previous build, doh! it would have helped stop the drill bit "grabbing" What did I do with that block of wood?....goodness knows!
  20. So true, I made my ES neck angle too low for a Tunomatic and too high for a bone saddle, had to make my own (intonation is not the best)
  21. I did the tuning peg holes on the Strat with a drill press but that didn't turn out all that good. A bit of a cheap tool, a bit wobbly and besides it was raining bucketloads today so I wasn't going out to the shed in that. Decided to use my own ingenuity for The Telecaster and its turned out pretty good One or two years ago I took a 25/64" drill bit and made it tapered to match the tuning pegs. Not sure if thats a good idea or overkill but I like it Its a bit blunt now so I started off with 1/16" then a 9mm hole. I actually managed to drill straight and square from both sides with the 1/16" and they met up perfectly, and the 9mm followed. I'm sure if I tried the 9mm without the 1/16" pilot hole they would have been misaligned. The final drill bit tended to grab a bit so I had to drill with some caution but it all turned out well
  22. Frets are in and ready to spray... I made this fret bevel with 26 degrees to give the E strings a bit more real estate to live on. I believe they're usually 35 degrees I rolled the fb edges with a regular sanding block at first but later used a small piece of wood. Finished sanding with 240 grit and now waiting for a suitable day for spraying
  23. I personally never have any idea what angle my necks are on, I just go by a straight edge simulating the line of the string Correction: It seems I go by the bottom of the fretboard, but initially go by the line of the string. Here's one of my crappy drawings...and a photo What I actually do is take a ton of measurements from my Les Paul and just try to copy it exactly This is a box I made to router the angle. I go by the distance and rise, so the distance to bridge is 252mm and the rise is about 8 or 9mm. Its an approach I've taken from roof carpentry
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