SJE-Guitars

Actually just over 1.5" - 40mm - only 2mm narrower than the standard nut but it makes a big difference. My previous single cut I actually use a 40mm nut on a 25" scale and it plays great, this is just 21" scale so it'll be a fun little guitar to play and playable by adults and my son!

So tonight has been a night of more template making - so of course 3D printing! Ok so as mentioned I did the CAD for this 85% scale LP previously so now it been a case of turning those CAD drawings into 3D CAD and printing them - so the neck . .. as you can see due to the length I had to print it in two pieces (3 if you include the headstock): However this is no big deal with a 3D printer you merely print some hole and some dowels to hold it together: A bit of super glue to hold it together and a bit of routing and voila: Chocks under it to check scale length and things are all centred and aligned: Hey a headless LP: That's all for now - the 3D printer is currently creating the headstock template - it's so nice to be able to print the CAD diagrams in a solid form rather that struggling with CAD diagrams stuck on bits of wood!

The winder mech works great on the table! I can't recall what people were complaining about on the old version but I know when I bought mine (online) I triple checked that I was getting the new version . . .

Well the neck pocket routed out very well so I drilled out the control holes then gave it a bit of a clean up with 120 grit and a bit of mineral spirits . . . As you can see the fret board blank in the picture - the neck is starting . . .

In terms of the Triton router - if I was using handheld I could probably pick some faults with it - however mounted in a table with the plunge spring removed it really is an excellent piece of kit. I can't comment on the Triton table, this said I have read numerous bad reviews regards their tables, but mounted in a Kreg table which I have in turn mounted into my work bench it a real quality piece of kit. I've own numerous cheaper routers and one of the biggest annoyances is the 1/4" collets that slide into the 1/2" collet and they invariably don't grip the bits sufficiently - the Triton comes with both 1/2" and 1/4" nut collets so it makes change between sizes real easy. The covered power switch that isn't a trigger not only makes it perfect for table use but also stops any possibility of accidental switch on, along with the fact there are no vents under the motor (above the bit) so dust and crap cannot get inside. Then it's party piece for table mounting is the crank/lift already built into the router - no expensive lift required - that said I don't use the crank handle I find it far easy to just adjust the height with the twist adjust under the table, easy and accurate. The other thing is that it's very smooth and considerably quieter than the cheapie I use to do any hand routing (these things are few and far between but any kind of pocket aren't things to be routed on the table). So if you intended on putting a router in a table understand that you will need another to do any handheld routing (my cheapie basically has a tracing bit int it which hardly ever gets changed!). This is the one I am talking about: http://www.tritontools.com/en-AU/Model/TRA001# - I know there is an older version which had less than favorable reviews.

Those dying pics are good to see as I will be dying my mini build - a black/bright yellow burst currently on the cards but I think I'll need to bleach the top before I do the dyes. Looking a great build . . . kind of amusing that I remember this thread from when I was on here before my time away from building!

I'll route the neck pocket out fully tomorrow night as it's nearly 11pm here and I doubt the neighbours would thank me if I started up the router now! Stay tuned for more crazy 3D printer template and jig fun!

One final share for the night, there may have been some folks out there wondering how I would route the neck pocket deep and longer into the pickup pocket . . . well the wonders of 3D printing strikes again!

Ok - enough crap phone photos! The pockets are cleaned up: As mentioned the things that are to come - one full 8 string bobbin set pickup ring and plate, along with a couple of 6 string bobbins - all 3D printed:

The good old 3d printer really makes these kinds of work easy, since it essentially a plastic dispensing CNC the accuracy is repeatable. The biggest restriction is obviously the size limitation of the printing platform. Templates for the rear pocket recesses and covers will be created using the 3D printer also - then the coup de grace will be the pickups which will be made using 3d printed coils and base and pickup rings (I've already do the design work on these so I know they'll work) - obviously as I am designing and printing them they'll be custom string spacing match to this guitar as it's a 85% scaled down LP. For the neck I have Cherry and Honey Myrtle - unsure whether to use a single wood or put a single stringer of Myrtle between Cherry . . . photos will follow along with the pickups.

What don't you like about the Triton router? I use one in a Kreg table and I can't rate it highly enough! A brilliant router particularly on a table with the inbuilt crank allowing for sub mm adjustment, auto locking head for bit changing etc.

Starting to look like a guitar (will clean up the pocket tomorrow night) . . . Another little share here are the templates I made to do the pickup pockets - getting all 21st century with my 3D printer to print the white template which I then templated to the template! : I have to say the translation from CAD to the printer and in turn routed is very neat and very accurate!

Ahh with the power of Flickr I am unstoppable!!! This is one of the original 16" I kept for myself I have knocking around: For those waiting the samples + 1 will be en-route to myself by the end of the week - I have use the company to produce some other tools which have been excellent quality so I am very excited to get them! I am also getting them produced in K01 carbide which is the hardest of the tooling carbides used working with hard woods. Videos and photos will be shared once received.

bam . . Not a bad looking piece of wood! It's take about 4 weeks of clamping flat after the initial cut out from the half trunk to get it settle so I could plane and glue it. The log had been air drying for around 1 year! (yes I the top where the neck pocket will be looks uneven and it is however as that are will all be remove for pocket it's no hassle, also the top left curve look straight because there was a minor (very minor look worse in the photo that it is) tear out on the router when shaping, however as it will be bound this will be removed anyway!)

boom . . . routed to shape and pockets . . . front and back . .. And for those with an eye for detail - your eyes are not deceiving you the switch cavity isn't perfectly round (as yet . . .)

It Cypress gets roughed out to shape. . . whilst I wait for the flood protection timer to run out . . . I should mention the whole layout and design of the guitar has been done in CAD which is where I got the templates from . .

The Cypress becomes one . . (the gratuitous clamp shot have been missed out!)

See what I did there . . So hey my first build for some time . . . and it's one I've been promising my 6 year old for some time! It's a 85% scaled down version of a Les Paul - albeit I am going to take some artistic license and it'll end up being more of a Les Paul Junior than a Les Paul . . . anyhow . . The build is being built from some salvage yard Cypress and also a piece of a Cadagi which is from a trunk of tree which was cut down in a friends garden (they are actually classed as weeds around here!) So one piece of Cypress cut in half

I'll see if I still have the pics and restore the post, if not might even recreate them (albeit minus the Lao garden!).

I might well give this a bump upto the top - as per my other thread. Feel free to merge the threads, if required. :o) I am just waiting for the test bits to be provided - I'll be doing the same kind of tests etc as Erik did for the last ones. I have high hopes these will be even better - also they'll be C4+ carbide which is one of the hardest carbide for working with the hardest woods. Will update once I have the samples.

In the word of Bender . . . I'm back baby! Anyhow, I am currently await on some samples from a supplier, then I will be setting up a good old Ebay store where you'll be able to buy 10", 12" and 16" radiusing router bits. If anyone has the desire for any other size radius bit then they'd have to be a special order but can be arranged Have a few other useful tools in the works as well and they'll be kick ass and at good (read damn sight cheaper then certain online retailers!) prices. I'll let you all know when the Store will be up and running . . . and if I can find somewhere host a some pics I'll stick be contributing to the build thread again . . . Cheers all

I've not posted on here in sometime but come on . . . people commenting on the IKKEENBACKER . . . please do a search for Rickenbacker 4004LK and see why it looks the way it does! Lemmy = Rock God! Got my vote!

Say that a nice looking raduis router bit you've got there! Good to see it in action! I still think there is one 16" radius bit lying around in my house in Laos somewhere . . . starting to have withdrawal symptoms from building and I've only been out of Laos for just over 2 months Oh well I plan to get my foot in the pickup market over here and the 8 string t-o-m is still work in process. Nice looking V .. .. the Tele thread is good as well. Not actually had much time browse since my move . . .

Well sorry I didn't see this thread before - new job, new country etc. I've been rather busy. Although since I own an original Peavey Wolfgang - if I recall rightly it's around 16 years or so old now - totally original US made from the first production run. Anyway I a few things - which you've probably work out now - but hey: 1) The StewMac spoke wheel is about half the size of the Wolfgang truss rod. 2) Shaller Mini Tuners using the 40:1 ratio are the original tuners 3) The Floyd Rose has a D-Tuna on it - for quick drop D tuning (actually an excellent tool) 4) The neck and fretboard were original Birdseye Maple 5) The angle on the headstock is 10 degrees (iirc) 6) The Floyd is setup at EVHs preferred non floating - which is mine as well - I can't stand floating floyd roses and was one of the reason behind me buying it! The recess for the rear of the Floyd has a small amount of foam padding so it doesn't damage the wood. 7) 15 inch fretboard radius Oh the headstock you are doing is the new EVH version. If you need know anything more let me know.