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RickBlacker

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About RickBlacker

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  1. Hi all, Currently I'm looking into getting a buffer. I'm curious to know what kind of buffers you guys are using, what seems to be the best thing to use for working on guitars. Are you guys using full sized buffers, bench top buffers? or buffing wheels that you put into a drill??? Any heads up and reasoning behind why you use what you use would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Rick
  2. Thanks! A little update. I just noticed that my switch was in backwards according to the seymour ducan wiring diagram that I had been using. I disconnected everything off the switch, turned it around, rewired. Not that odd buzz is not there, it acts like my other guitars, a very slight increase in buzz volume when I touch it.
  3. I recently replaced a humbucker and selector switch from the Asian to the American style. Everything seems to be wired up correctly, selector switches and the pups work as expected. Everything looks to be grounded properly. However, I still get significant buzz, however, if I touch my selector switch, the buzz stops. The selector switch does have a ground going from the ground nub, to the ground solder joint on the back of the volume pot. I'm just wondering if I should also solder a wife from the body of the selector switch to the same ground point.
  4. *UPDATE* It's not the guitar at all. Nor is it the cable. It has something to do with my Boss GT10. When I take the GT10 out of the equation and go directly guitar to amp, the buzz stops happening. Not sure what to do about the fact that being plugged into the GT10 is the culprit.
  5. Hi all.. I just purchased a new Ibanez S series (sorry, I know... store bought not built ). With a pup config of HSH. My signal goes like this... Guitar - Boss GT10 - Amp I get a buzz through my amp. When I touch my strings it dips in volume ever so slightly, however, when I touch either the metal strip on the boss gt10 or the metal pup rings, the buzz goes away. Is this normal or can it be fixed? If it can be fixed, is it likely that I need to pull out all the electronics and re-solder? Ensure that everything is grounded properly? Also, how beneficial would be getting some of t
  6. Oh, sorry for the missunderstanding. It does have a post that goes from the baffle to the back panel. It's not attached to the back panel, but does stretch from baffle to back.
  7. The cab is tightly closed. It's a Peavey Valveking cab. I've heard that the stock speakers in those are less than steller. I'm thinking about replacing them with some Warehouse Speakers 50w Reapers. Love the tone of those bad boys.
  8. So my cab is a 4x12 closed back cab. One of the things I have an issue with, with this amp, is that the speakers feel like they are having a hard time keeping up. To some degree flubby. I changed my preamp tubes and it did clean things up some. But, I wondering if the same cab with thicker material would tighten up that flubby bass response.
  9. I was curious about guitar cabinet thickness. In the audio world, I know a lot of speakers are made with 3/4" ply. Do guitar speakers benefit from such thick ply? I have a 4x12 cab that's made of 3/8" ply. If there were two versions of this exact same cab, dimensions, speakers. Would one sound better than the other?
  10. Yeah, that's what I found out. Going to have to pull the post back out so I can solder it.
  11. Well, I feel stupid. The neck is just fine as well as the pocket. I took the neck off and noticed a gap up front. There was debris in the pocket that was preventing it from seating properly. Cleaned it out, things were great. Even had to adjust the bridge up a touch. Given the fact that this was my first ever refret I'm completely surprised at how good it turned out. I have the action as low as I have it on my other guitars and no fret buzz. Of course I could get it even lower, but, I can't stand fret buzz so I keep it up just a bit. But it's every bit as good if not better than my factory
  12. I'm just going to tung oil it. Also, I've already sanded off the existing finish it had on it so it's bare right now.
  13. Great thanks. I suspected as much.
  14. Asked this in my explorer build thread but realized it really belongs here.... I've got a bridge that does not require any kind of trem route. It just sits on top of the body. I know that on Floyd style bridges I've always seen a ground wire soldered onto the claw. Not having that option here, is it required that i drill a small hole that ends up under the bridge so I can have a ground wire from the control cavity to the bridge? Ultimately, I guess what I'm asking is, do all bridges need to be grounded no matter what style?
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