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RickBlacker

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Everything posted by RickBlacker

  1. Hey all, I have an Epiphone Les Paul it's blue and in great shape, but when they stained it, it would appear as though they went skimpy on the stain and it's not a nice dark rich blue, rather a pale blue. Thought about sanding it down and re-staining it HOWEVER... My biggest concern is the white/beige bindings around the body. It would seem as though if I sand the guitar, the bindings will then have very small micro groves in them, thus when I apply any stain, the stain would then get into the bindings and tint those as well. Anyone have any suggestions on how I could darken the wood without affecting the binding around the body??? Thanks all.
  2. Hi all, Currently I'm looking into getting a buffer. I'm curious to know what kind of buffers you guys are using, what seems to be the best thing to use for working on guitars. Are you guys using full sized buffers, bench top buffers? or buffing wheels that you put into a drill??? Any heads up and reasoning behind why you use what you use would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Rick
  3. Thanks! A little update. I just noticed that my switch was in backwards according to the seymour ducan wiring diagram that I had been using. I disconnected everything off the switch, turned it around, rewired. Not that odd buzz is not there, it acts like my other guitars, a very slight increase in buzz volume when I touch it.
  4. I recently replaced a humbucker and selector switch from the Asian to the American style. Everything seems to be wired up correctly, selector switches and the pups work as expected. Everything looks to be grounded properly. However, I still get significant buzz, however, if I touch my selector switch, the buzz stops. The selector switch does have a ground going from the ground nub, to the ground solder joint on the back of the volume pot. I'm just wondering if I should also solder a wife from the body of the selector switch to the same ground point.
  5. *UPDATE* It's not the guitar at all. Nor is it the cable. It has something to do with my Boss GT10. When I take the GT10 out of the equation and go directly guitar to amp, the buzz stops happening. Not sure what to do about the fact that being plugged into the GT10 is the culprit.
  6. Hi all.. I just purchased a new Ibanez S series (sorry, I know... store bought not built ). With a pup config of HSH. My signal goes like this... Guitar - Boss GT10 - Amp I get a buzz through my amp. When I touch my strings it dips in volume ever so slightly, however, when I touch either the metal strip on the boss gt10 or the metal pup rings, the buzz goes away. Is this normal or can it be fixed? If it can be fixed, is it likely that I need to pull out all the electronics and re-solder? Ensure that everything is grounded properly? Also, how beneficial would be getting some of that copper tape that stewmac sells?
  7. Oh, sorry for the missunderstanding. It does have a post that goes from the baffle to the back panel. It's not attached to the back panel, but does stretch from baffle to back.
  8. The cab is tightly closed. It's a Peavey Valveking cab. I've heard that the stock speakers in those are less than steller. I'm thinking about replacing them with some Warehouse Speakers 50w Reapers. Love the tone of those bad boys.
  9. So my cab is a 4x12 closed back cab. One of the things I have an issue with, with this amp, is that the speakers feel like they are having a hard time keeping up. To some degree flubby. I changed my preamp tubes and it did clean things up some. But, I wondering if the same cab with thicker material would tighten up that flubby bass response.
  10. I was curious about guitar cabinet thickness. In the audio world, I know a lot of speakers are made with 3/4" ply. Do guitar speakers benefit from such thick ply? I have a 4x12 cab that's made of 3/8" ply. If there were two versions of this exact same cab, dimensions, speakers. Would one sound better than the other?
  11. Yeah, that's what I found out. Going to have to pull the post back out so I can solder it.
  12. Well, I feel stupid. The neck is just fine as well as the pocket. I took the neck off and noticed a gap up front. There was debris in the pocket that was preventing it from seating properly. Cleaned it out, things were great. Even had to adjust the bridge up a touch. Given the fact that this was my first ever refret I'm completely surprised at how good it turned out. I have the action as low as I have it on my other guitars and no fret buzz. Of course I could get it even lower, but, I can't stand fret buzz so I keep it up just a bit. But it's every bit as good if not better than my factory guitars.
  13. I'm just going to tung oil it. Also, I've already sanded off the existing finish it had on it so it's bare right now.
  14. Great thanks. I suspected as much.
  15. Asked this in my explorer build thread but realized it really belongs here.... I've got a bridge that does not require any kind of trem route. It just sits on top of the body. I know that on Floyd style bridges I've always seen a ground wire soldered onto the claw. Not having that option here, is it required that i drill a small hole that ends up under the bridge so I can have a ground wire from the control cavity to the bridge? Ultimately, I guess what I'm asking is, do all bridges need to be grounded no matter what style?
  16. Hi all... How tight should a neck fit into a neck pocket? Should it just drop in? Should it be snug enough where you have to press hard with the palm of your hand to get it seated all the way? Or is a bit of wiggle ok? Reason I'm asking is because I've generally made my pockets tight, but, I was watching a video today where someone was assembling a strat clone with pre-made parts. The neck just plopped in with ease an no pressing down to seat it was necessary.
  17. Another question, and this may be dumb, but I've never worked on a non floyd style guitar before. Do I still need to ground the bridge? And if so, would I just drill a small hold up to where the bridge sits over the body and solder a bit of ground wire up to the bridge in an appropriate location?
  18. Shutter.... I did that this weekend. I didn't make my pocket deep enough to begin with, didn't calculate the depth of the template and tried to put the template back in place. Didn't work out so well. Ended up having to scab in some wood so I could re-route the pocket sides. It was ever so slight, but needed to be done. On another guitar, I used a few playing cards strips to shim up the back end of the neck heel. Worked good. Don't want to do that, but taking a risk of having another boo boo does not thrill me either. What I could do is use an over sized bearing on my router bit. This would keep the bit away from the pocket walls. Then use my chisels to clean up the around the edges of the pocket floor.
  19. Yeah, I hear you. I'm not big on grime, but prefer the feel of the wood to a finish.
  20. Why is it that maple necks have protective coating but other necks don't seem to need the same treatment?
  21. So, you're saying that I should put an angle on the neck pocket? I didn't when i routed it out to begin with because the neck itself had a slight angle.
  22. It's not the angle that's the issue. The issue is that the neck simply sits too low in relation to the bridge. The neck needs to be raised because I've lowered the bridge as far down to the body as I can get it.
  23. Hey all... Hey all... So here it is so far. I've got everything assembled. The alignment came out awesome! However, the action is too high. I can't lower my bridge any lower than it is. I need about 1/8 at least more height. I can approach it on one of two ways. Either shim up the neck, or route a bridge profile in my body. I'm leaning towards shimming up the neck pocket a bit. I'm not done with the guitar. I still, have to route a bevel around the edges, sand and prep for painting. I'm leaving it as is for a bit for a week or so. Want to get a feel for how it plays. Also will need to give the neck are of the body a nice contour.
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