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S.A.D

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  1. I didn't build this one, its korean import, before you ask it's decent quality. i checked the neck with a notched straight edge and it's fine. As for the radius block I only used that at the end of the first leveling to remove the flats created by the beam, as per the stewmac shop guide. I'm thinking your right about targeting individual high spots with a rocker and a smaller file, but i don't have either at the moment aside from the sharpening stone i found. anyway a fret rocker will be my next purchase. But the point is the frets were level, my real problem is getting a little fallaway. So after the first level I did reset the relief and i'm thinking maybe when i went to add fallaway i haven't quite gotten the neck completely straight. i thought i was pretty exact, but if it had even the tiniest bit of relief then that might cause the fallaway to not show up with the straight edge. so i'm gonna have another look this time making 100% sure its as dead straight as i can get it. if anyone has any more thoughts on technique, or how they go about adding fallaway and such then please comment .
  2. Ok, this the 2nd fret leveling i've done. This time round I finished getting my frets totally level with my surface ground beam. i did the crowning, got the whole thing restrung, setup, etc and i find that i can't get the treble side below 5/64th without getting a little buzzing on the high e from frets 12-17. not much buzzing mind you, but after fiddling with the rod i decided this was a good chance to try adding a little fallaway to the highest frets. so i ditch my sanding beam and found a nice flat sharpening stone that checked i with my straight edge. i marked the frets with a little blue marker just as a little added guide. then i went to work on the 13th-last frets, checking every so often with the straight edge to see where i was at. i had a 0.004" feeler gauge that i'd try to stick under the straight edge now and then. so i took the layer of marker off and i'm thinking, not much to go after that. So after a few more strokes i check for fallaway, nothing... so a couple more stokes... nothing... more strokes... still nothing! so i kept going like that for, oh say 10 minutes and by now i could see the crowning of the frets was widening quite a bit and i'm really thinking i aught to be getting some kind of result. so i check everything, make sure the necks straight at the 7th, make sure the stones still level, hell i even stared at my stewmac straight edge for a few minutes scratching my head. So after deciding that everything was set up right and that the laws of physics seemed to be telling me if i continued filing these last few frets at some point they have to become lower then the other 12! right???! so i went at them a little more, nothing! gave up, crowned them off, restrung, setup, and this time around the action had improved slightly, but not by much and i'm still dumbfounded by this apparent inconsistency of logic! what on earth am i doing wrong?! just how far should i have to go?! while i'm writing all this i'd also like to say that i always seem to remove quite a bit of material when leveling, especially on the low frets. i'm starting to wonder if my techniques a little off. i use a flat stewmac aluminum beam the length of the board as my main leveling device. its got me wondering if i'm getting a decent radius too? ive read about the difference in compound and conical radius and i figured at the worst i'd just end up with a slight compound. i do have a wooden radius block, but i dont like it much since i don't trust wood like i trust surface ground aluminum and the fact that it only contacts a few frets at a time seems inferior. i did give the whole board a once over with it after the first level and i noticed it immediately took more off the sides of the frets. so can anyone help?
  3. thanx for your replies i guess in a kind of a way i all ready knew but i was just trying to get a better idea of wat a router is capable of. sawing as much off as possible makes sense anyway.
  4. Is it Possible to cut out an entire body using a router? reason im asking is im onto my secound guitar project (the last one i just used a jigsaw and sander) and there didn't seem to be any readily available answer so i thought i'd give it a go using my table router but once i got in to the wood a little ways i got some pretty bad kickback that nearly ruined the piece of wood i was using and gave me a hand full of nasty splinters . i assume its possible in theory but is this common or practical or do most people just use a saw?
  5. i generally have em cranked and only turn em down for better feedback control with the tone right down you wont get the uncontrolable squeal which i like, but sometimes i wanna get more sustained feedback and then turn it up till it looses control and starts sqealing
  6. When i first built my guitar i put some push pull pots in it not for any particular reason they were just what i had handy, but now im starting to think wat i might do to them. because the pots were 500k and i heard a few storys about how cool old 1000k teles sound i thought im might try to add another 500k to the resistance when the knob was pulled out so i tried connecting the ground lug to the switch and from there either continue on to ground (wen the knob was in) or to a 500k resistor (when the knob was out) so that wen the knob was out it would start at 500k and go to 1000k wen the knob was on ten but it didnt really work wen the pot was out it started with about the same volume it would normaly hav on say 3 but wen cranked to ten it was the same in or out go figure . so i was wondering if its possible to have two volume stages or maybe just some kinda boost? and if not any one got any NEW or unusual ideas about wat i could us the switches for other than wire tapping n stuff. thanx
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