Helldunkel

Very cool, reminds me of a Zachary

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Ok here is my final attempt to try capturing the looks of the distressed tops...

This was tough but I tried my best

Ok here are some high quality pictures which I was able to take today, still not 100% satisfied so I will have another go tomorrow after work, enjoy

For fun, a "helldunkel" picture

Been waiting for these pickups for ages, finally they arrived at my front door! - The "Helldunkel's"

So here is my NPD ceremony...

These are handmade in France by a small artisan, and these pickups are the result of a close collaboration between him and me...

I'm going to take some quality pictures and post them later, but for now, enjoy these

I've been using this swiss made product for a long long time now, very effective...

http://estalin.ch/en/pr_polish_metaux.php

I've also made this short video: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xityow_metarex-shiny-frets_music

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I can verify that. The finish, even after a few months of curing, isn't as hard as a thick poly finish. On the other hand it isn't as soft as a linseed or tung oil finish that doesn't build a film like true oil does.The guitars I have built and used true oil on have yet to stand the test of time but they sure seems to be fine this far. I had never used true oil before looking into Patrick's work, but his guitars inspired me to finally test it out and it is something I have now added as a "standard option".

I've been using tru-oil for many years, I started using it and ordering it from LMII in 1999 if I remember correctly and it stands the test of time without any problem.

Also Tru-Oil is very popular among acoustic guitar builders...

Check out this topic on the gear page, some electric guitar builders had some amazing build up results...

http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=711780

And dont forget that tru-oil is being used for many many years for either gun restoration or gun finishing because it requires a very durable finish...

Soooooooo much nicer without that red button... Seriously.

No disrespect intended.

Maybe one day you will hopefully seriously understand that I work on order and that the red button is a customers request...

No disrespect intended here either but this is pretty much the same as this:

"hey Hufschmid, do you also use chrome hardware on your guitars? It would look so much better with chrome!

Oh quick question, do you also use tone controls?"

Scientifics name this the first opinion's based impression (the human bug)

http://changingminds.org/articles/articles08/the_folly_of_first_impressions.htm

If the customer follows a few simple logical rules, the instrument will last forever...

Are you willing to share your views on correct instrument care?

I've never really heard a solid set of do's and dont's other than dont leave it in your trunk on a hot sunny day and dont take it out of the case untill it's adjusted to the new climate....

Sure mate, but it has nothing to do with a "personal view" really, it's facts and logical things which simply must be explained in details...

This is what I send to my customers to educate them about humidity and this is something that most serious guitar companies do either like I do or they mention it inside their warranty papers when you purshase an instrument in a music shop for example...

How to take care and protect your guitar against Temperature and Humidity?

(This applies to every wooden musical instrument)

Wood is a porous, organic material and is affected dimensionally by changes in the amounts of moisture it contains. All

fine stringed instruments made from solid wood are, without a doubt, more susceptible to the effects of changes in

humidity than are laminated wood instruments and mass production instruments. These are heavily sealed by many

coats of hard lacquer. Natural wood requires ongoing attention to its condition.

The moisture content of wood is determined by the relative humidity and temperature of the surrounding atmosphere.

Relative humidity is expressed as a percentage of air’s capability to hold moisture. For example, 30% relative humidity

means that the air is holding 30% of the moisture it could possibly hold at a given temperature. The greatest threats to

a fine wood guitar are extremes and rapid changes in temperature and humidity.

High humidity can cause softening of the glues used in the construction of the instrument. As wood absorbs moisture

from the air, this can cause the body and neck to twist, expand and rise. Conversely, if you live or travel with your

guitar to a drier climate (either hot or cold), there is another danger. In areas of low humidity, the evaporation of

moisture from the wood can cause shrinkage and cracking, no matter how long or carefully the wood has previously

been aged.

The collective experience of all of the major guitar manufacturers today has demonstrated that the ideal temperature to

preserve the integrity of solid wood guitars is room temperature, which is about 20.5º C (70º F ). The ideal relative

humidity is about 40% to 50%. In the winter, the forced air systems used to heat most homes can drive temperatures up

and humidity levels dangerously low for guitars. A good measure of protection against drying out your guitar is to use a

room humidifier. Use a dehumidifier if the room contains too much moisture. In either case, you need to control the

ambient atmosphere of your room. At least once a week, use some special oil (Hufschmid Guitars brand of choice)to clean and maintain the fingerboard and body, which will keep them from drying out and will nourish the

wood.

When the instrument is not in use, I recommend that you keep it in its case. If you are not using a room humidifier,

check the relative humidity periodically and, when needed, use one of the small guitar humidifiers that are available

from many instrument dealers. Do not leave the guitar for long periods near a heating vent, radiator or in direct sunlight close to a window. Never leave your guitar in a car or in the trunk of a car and do not expose it to excessive heat or cold.

Philharmonic Orchestras, violinists, classical guitarists and all musical instruments made of wood are taken on tour. It is always up to the musician to take individual care of them. This applies to all musical instruments (except for those made in metal), as much as it does to Hufschmid Guitars. One takes care of a car by checking the tyres and having it serviced.

Taking care of wood is a fraction of the effort and cost. There are humidifiers and dehumidifiers available everywhere.

Products to oil wood are available everywhere too, as most people have furniture made of wood.

The above text is based upon that of the 'Protection from Temperature and Humidity' section of the 'Benedetto Guitar

Owner's Manual'. It is quoted here with gracious permission of Bob Benedetto.

Website: http://www.benedettoguitars.com

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nice works!!

you are finish just with truoil?

how resistant keeps the finish to humidity or sweat?

It is a very hard and durable finish, not to be compared with a Tung Oil finish...

It it easy to apply, however care must be taken in order to achieve very thin and even coats otherwise it will be visible...

Lacquer is new to musical instruments its only been around since 1920's or so... We tend to forget that oil finishes and varnish on the other side have been around for hundereds of years.

Philharmonic Orchestras, violinists, classical guitarists and all musical instruments made of wood are taken on tour. It is

always up to the musician to take individual care of them and up to us to properly educate them so that they understand what is the effects of humidity and what is wood expansion and contraction. (same applies to lacquered instruments)

If the customer follows a few simple logical rules, the instrument will last forever...

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