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XBIGJIMX

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Posts posted by XBIGJIMX

  1. Moving on to finger boards. I took piece 5/4 flame maple stock and butterflied it to find a great finger board. I used a 17" band saw with 1" resaw blade to split these.

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    Then on to the most hellacious part of guitar building... radiusing the fretboard. It is a grulling tast that you feel in your shoulders . I tend to do it for a few minutes move on to something else. then come back do some more.

    IMG_8965_zpsgzqjhb0j.jpg

    I slotted the fret boards next on a dedicated old dewalt radial armsaw and then back to the shaper again and trim out the fret boards. Now lets see em roughed together

    IMG_8980_zps4vrkcvxr.jpg

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    After the test fits I marked out the centers for the side and top dots. For the side dot I use aluminum which shines up nice for dark stages. Why 3 dots at the 12th fret...why not

    IMG_9001_zps79nueg5t.jpg

    The top dot will be maple and purpleheart

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  2. 2 hours ago, Prostheta said:

    Sequential carbide helix cutters are a thing of beauty. They lower current consumption, are quieter, reduce chatter and kill tearout. You owe us some cutter porn dude.

    Than cutter porn shall be had!

    I picked up this beauty used for $250 for the 3HP model

    F5F3E6A6-8773-42F5-B96F-FE14537A160D_zps

    I bought the cutter and bearing new from Shellix for around $200 but this thing cuts like butter all most tearout even on the Jatoba

    8F5C9F47-0148-4D63-B0A8-3C7C20139C81_zps

    i Had to remove some of the steel dust control shroud to fit some of the tight curves I needed to do

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  3. Next we have some wood selection... I have had this one piece Jatoba I have been dying to use. Its just big enough for 2 bodies

    IMG_8922_zpsiqvfzogg.jpg

    IMG_8923_zpswtfdcqpj.jpg

    I cut out the bodies on a combo of the 14" band saw with a 3/16" blade to rough it out and then on to the shaper with Heilx byrd cutting head

    IMG_8926_zpslflsszyt.jpg

    Poplar and maple top

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    IMG_8936_zps3rpvtn3q.jpg

     

    I tend to make neck blanks in bulk just cause it is much easier and I like to have a selection when needed

    IMG_8913_zpsf7hhdroa.jpg

    I settled on one with purpleheart and one jatoba and these both got the same treatment of the small band saw and shaper

    IMG_8917_zpsqknc26y2.jpg

  4. 1 hour ago, guitar2005 said:

    Nice take on the tele. 

    For #2, I would strongly suggest you reconsider the Jatoba neck and body. For having used Jatoba extensively, it is very heavy and dense. I would do a Jatoba top but never an entire body. 

     

    I was worried about the weight since one time I made a 335 style body out of it and and even hallowed out it was almost 11.5 pounds total. But i called the guy and he looking for something "beefy" and feels like you ave a guitar on. So he is getting what he wished for hahaha

  5. Getting ready to do the next set of guitars. While I was out on tour The Rev from the band Success played one of my basses and ordered a set of teles with some mods ...

    So here are the common wants no pick guards , one single coil , set necks, one volume no tone from there he let me have some freedom.

    Rev caster one

    Poplar body with maple top

    Purpleheart /maple neck with maple fretboard

    Revcaster  two

    One piece Jatoba body

    maple / jatoba neck with a jatoba fretboard

     

    But first we need to do a little design work First step we need that Classic tele shape but my own . We started with a hard board, cut out on the band saw and smoothed the curves by hand and with the spindle sander.  After the happiness was achieved to 1/2" MDF board we go. Along with a dedicated centerline and hidden pattern mountng spots. I use alot of two way tape in my guitars but if I screw to a body I can change templates and reattch them as needed so if you can find a spot to hide a screw hole go for it.

    IMG_8905_zps7c7jmxyf.jpg

    Now I needed a headstock shape. So armed with a ruler and some tape rolls and jar lids to make curves this is what we got.

    IMG_8906_zpskoxrwznl.jpg

    Tape the headstock right to the MDF and draw out the neck with the center line. This cut out on the band saw. I cut out the main neck length with a 1" blade which makes it very easy to hold a nice straight cut with out those band saw marks.

    Side note though i have all these nice work surfaces and here i work on the damn garbage can.

    IMG_8907_zpsr8zffjvc.jpg

    IMG_8908_zpsjkiivov8.jpg

    Here it all is all together

    IMG_8909_zpsf7sfapen.jpg

    All center lines should line up (seriously they mean everything)

    IMG_8910_zpszimjg60m.jpg

  6. No top ferrules?

    I debated this one alot. I had not used them in the past and it seemed to not be a problem or caused any tuning issues on tour ( and I am rough on guitars). So angled the edges to avoid and indention in the wood. This may have been a real bad idea but we are going to find out. I know on the next project I will use them more because of rubbing compound in the indents thats horrible to get out.

    • Guitar Name: Molly
    • Body: Mahogany with Maple Cap
    • Neck : 5 ply Maple / Jatoba
    • Fretboard: Jatoba with Maple binding 22 frets no inlay with Aluminum side dots
    • Scale 24.75” Weight 10lbs 1oz
    • Pair of  late 70’s Ibanez Super 58 pick ups
    • Interesting features Hand made brass nut. Brass block to add some mass in the ass if you will. All control covers and truss rod covers are held on with magnets to make access easy and fast on tour.
    • This was my 5th scratch build (the first 4 I built 2 of each at the same time so this might be my third build)
    • This was built in my own shop in my basement it was also finished in my garage so I had to manage dust for that.
    • This build was for my new Son in Law. My Daughter asked me to make him a guitar for there wedding which was not going to happen with my touring and other issues so we shot for the first anniversary. So cost was an issue, her having twins throwing money on a custom guitar was not really feasible. So I recycled some parts when possible.  It was designed by (well improved in my opinion ) by me I basically took my #1 and put the things on it I would change.
    • I am far from a professional I am more artist then engineer. I am self-taught as you can be in the era of the Internet. I can’t do a lot but wood and paint make sense to me unlike most people and math.

    Here is a link to the build http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48138-my-first-base-model-build-a-pair-of-mollys/#comment-542413

     

     

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  7. One of the things I love about using stained tops is that I can fix them pretty easy is I burn though them while level sanding. as you can see in the before and after pic. A couple quick wipes of stain

    IMG_8785_zpslgsjqewa.jpg

    So after another 3 coats and a level sanding from 500,800,1000,1200 It was off to the buffing wheel that I built from my drill press (there is  tutorial pinned in this site) I moved on to electronics which were a standard 1 volume one tone and a 3 way switch and a set of old Ibanez super 58's from an old artist I was saving. I then put it on the home made stew mac fret jig and did all the fret work. And finally put on the magnets that hold on the trust rod covers and control plate. And 1 of the Molly's is complete. the other is waiting.

    All and all it came in at 10lbs1oz

    IMG_8836_zpszvnletcq.jpg

    IMG_8836_zpszvnletcq.jpg

    IMG_8843_zpspc1fcfts.jpg

    IMG_8845_zpshfyioocj.jpg

    IMG_8846_zpscsywz7ce.jpg

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  8. So then on to the finish which was was desided on sunburst-ish see though blue. So I sanded the body down to 320

    Step one mask off the natural binding and the neck binding.

    IMG_8742_zpsiytvbef4.jpg

    Then with a cotton rag and water based stain I wipe on the black for reasons one to make the grain pop in color and to raise the grain to sand flush. So add the black

    IMG_8744_zpsictsf5rl.jpg

    And sand off the black

    IMG_8745_zpslk8efqi2.jpg

    IMG_8746_zpsqftirwjn.jpg

    Then add the blue

    IMG_8747_zpsp0ixubtm.jpg

    IMG_8748_zpsamptif95.jpg

    Then logos which was just a basic mask and sprayed with an airbrush

    IMG_8764_zpsrvqwzxex.jpg

    IMG_8765_zpsp7yrquio.jpg

    After the color got done i scrapped the binding for any seepage

    IMG_8778_zpsolhaoqje.jpg

    I used a 2 part clear post catalyzed lacquer

    IMG_8789_zpsfmkjeujj.jpg

  9. Well it has been awhile but sometimes life gets in the way or our mental health but hey with that fixed or at least medicated lets get back to building. Now on the last step I jumped the gun and glued the fret board on before putting in the side dots not the end of the world, but it makes the job harder. I use aluminum for my side dot so the shine up really nice

    IMG_7254_2_zpsuils9vft.jpg

    I got all the sanding and carving done

    IMG_7378_2_zpsicrpd0jv.jpg

    IMG_7387_zpsoswgq1mj.jpg

    After I drilled out the string holes and for the bridge. It was then I realized I did the neck pocket to deep or not enough pocket angle either way a recessed bridge can fix that. BUT..... in the process we had our first real disaster. The router was set way to deep and dug out a trench and blew out the pick up wall a bit so this was all going to have to be filled and hid. Lucky for me it happened under the bridge which makes almost unnoticeable, But with some timber mate we got it fixed

    IMG_8740_zpsulln0hrs.jpg

    Then comes my least favorite thing grain filling.

    IMG_8736_zpsidaqx5nc.jpg

  10. Well first off took some days to do some shop "upgrades" New band saw tires cool blocks and these beauties

    5523DE12-D4F9-4EF5-8CBB-8244959484F9_zps

    DC4DF613-7238-4DF4-9285-7E6314BFD272_zps

    I also got a few fret boards slotted One of Jatoba and one of Willow.

    A2621F0E-529B-4309-A5EF-9856FBA23495_zps

    Now I have never done binding before, so i king had to figure out how I wanted to do this. I wound up using an offset pin on the pin router. Then glued the wood binding to the fret board. Maple and Purpleheart.

    E6067333-74E0-49E9-ABF1-5191B884C8FA_zps

    Then a quick trip on the jointer and drum sander to level it

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    Now I was little off on replacing the final trim out so I will half to remember that for next time

  11. So where do you start when you have a 1000 ideas you want to do. Well base it on what you play. So the start is my number 1 for the last 10 years "Molly" A Heritage CM-150. but make the changes I needed. So first the woods

    Mahogany body

    Maple tops

    Necks

    Maple Jatoba 5 ply With Jatoba fret board.

    Purple heart maple 5 ply with Willow fret board

    So I start as always with a hard board "master" template that is transfered to 3/4 MDF

    1508193_10153370828539698_63497301518660

    After I am happy with everything its the glue up of the 2 part body and the top after resawing the maple cap

    looks nice

    603821_520276414779990_80201470183836869

    Now originally I was going with purple heart necks which you will see later went to hell

    The original Billets and necks

    1013769_10153293708444698_66890952019349

    Starting to early in the morning and took to much wood of on the jointer and made some fire wood

    10407581_10153551708284698_3181993612740

    So grab a fresh blank and redue the scarf joint. I cut these at 13degrees on the band say then even out on the jointer

    10917033_520276238113341_624889445894680

    Now truss rod cut on the router table

    10940416_520276258113339_341131617326149

    Then some wings for the head stock

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    Now moving on to the bodies, After the glue up its off to the thickness sander to get them to thickness and clean them up.

    First a trip to the band saw

    10606460_520276331446665_679111322616280

    Seeing the cut outs never gets old

    1464646_10153562456104698_10152108899489

    And hogging out the control cavity before template time

    10924763_520276358113329_295895827874594

    Now I use a combo of the Shaper and overarm pin router

    IMG_5501_zpsdddeccfa.jpg

    1505991_520276388113326_3503564958763772

    I also do my tops the same way. Now on my templates I put in register pins so to a line everything up and to prevent slipping in the glue up.

    10419034_10153557458324698_6815388436805

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    and then its back to the necks

    Rough cut on the band saw then over to the pin router

    10419034_10153557458324698_6815388436805

    10933909_520276738113291_833940619265974

    When I carve the tops I take a little off the top with the pin router for a guide and to speed things along

    1488716_520276674779964_6043565250697161

    I do the main carve with a angle grinder then with a scraper and a hockey skate blade

    10924824_10153562844244698_4679211714944

    I have a template made for the neck pocket. The depth I always measure with each guitar just to make sure

    10942748_520276801446618_214432836928009

    Finished neck pocket with back angle

    10922838_520276818113283_736496382717280

    And a test fit

    1908105_10153571441299698_76570500701756

  12. Ok i may very well be the worst blogger in the history of blog mania . Kind of forgot the end of the story didn't I. Well let me recap those last 5 days, For those that did not know which is none of you I made that deadline I did finish them all , mind you i was setting guitars up all night the night before i left.

    Here we got them ready for finishing (except that one)all of them were grain filled then lets get tot the fun stuff ...color

    Now they requested flat black which is kind of boring so I gave them one flat black the other alittle more fun temperature changing paint over some see through tops

    IMG_3483_zpsb058efa5.jpg

    First some serial numbers and then some coats of tung oil of the necks

    IMG_3495_zps4cf59f49.jpg

    IMG_3496_zps87376a87.jpg

    Step one we rubbed in a coat of water based black

    IMG_3496_zps87376a87.jpg

    IMG_3498_zps0127a7b3.jpg

    Then after a back sand to remove the black ...red

    IMG_3519_zps1080f394.jpg

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    IMG_3523_zpsa012402a.jpg

    Then other 2 got the sealer

    IMG_3505_zps723c0f61.jpg

    Then 2 got the flat black the other color changing paint

    IMG_3509_zpsc4770258.jpg

    NExt we paint on the logos

    IMG_3509_zpsc4770258.jpg

    IMG_3537_zps2dfb9e14.jpg

    Then some flat clear 2 part

    IMG_3532_zps794b3a1a.jpg

    After some curing it was wetsand then buff then alot of fret work and wiring and

    IMG_3550_zps6262cbed.jpg

    The customers were really happy. The basses I stayed in tune so well many times they did an hour set an dnever needed tuning i was quite pleased now here is a few vids of happy customers

    http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u144/XBIGJIMX/th_IMG_3556_zpsutiiymkw.mp4

    http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u144/XBIGJIMX/th_IMG_3581_zpsjck4q4ji.mp4

  13. So after the successful test lets see if i can do it again, as luck my have it they weighed with in 1 ounce of eachother

    IMG_3478_zpse37772dc.jpg

    So now back over to bobby's guitar, alot of th esteps were the same but different but it did have a few mistakes and a repair. Well before I forgot to get the final thickness down to 1.75" before the glue up and the guitar was to wide for my planner so, milled of a .25 " on the pin router which worked great on the 1st but no so much on the second

    IMG_3396_zpsa0e408e8.jpg

    So i had to either start over or fix it so i gave it shot fixing it. I took the body to the band saw and cut it down the center. then went to the planner and took it down to 1.375". After jointing down both sides and removing a total of .25 of stock I cut a jatoba accent strip and glued it all back together. After it dryed I glued on a new bottom and ran it around the shaper using the original body as the template

    IMG_3472_zpsc6525cd0.jpg

    after that i carved the tops with a power grinder and a scraper and glued in the necks

    IMG_3397_zps43f7ecea.jpg

    I fretted the fret boards before attaching this time which worked better

    Now bobby requested aged hardware on of them so with some Tupperware and muric acid were off to the races. Basically you put the hard ware in a cup inside a Tupperware of muric acid and seal for about 20 minutes and boom. Mind you this is a total outside type project cause this stuff is nasty . Yes the smoke comes out of it when you poor it.

    THis is the result, there is one unaged one to show the difference

    IMG_3406_zps25fc944a.jpg

    While that was going i took a few shop pics to have a look around

    IMG_3468_zps5bea72fe.jpg

    Also I built a stewmac fretting jig. at over $400 to buy one that was not going to happen...DIY!!! total cost $35

    IMG_3422_zps104e72c8.jpg

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