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Everything posted by ScottR

  1. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=43332&hl= I had forgotten that it has a walnut top, but the body and neck are all out of one piece of sapele. SR
  2. Structurally and tonally no drawbacks. It will certainly add a few levels of difficulty particularly for a first build. Wait a minute....I'm assuming that when you say all from one piece of lumber, you mean making the neck and body all from one piece. If so, then details like fretting, headstock shaping and drilling, routing and so on are trickier, especially for a first build, because you have a whole guitar hanging onto the other end of the part you are working on. It can be done and done well. See one posted by Pauliemc for the most recent example here. If youare talking about just making the body from one piece instead of a glue up then there are no other drawbacks at all, and you've saved yourself the step of the glue up. You are just going to spend more money and waste more wood as was mentioned. SR
  3. Then feather sand it back towards the finished body. If you micromesh the transition it will feel the same and the gloss level from one to the other will get as close as it can. Like always, this will something worth testing on scrap pieces of the same woods. SR
  4. I'm thinking that would be a very nice color for the quilt. I hope you don't take out all the black, it gives it a smoky quality. I also like the carve on the back. I often wonder why more guitars don't get a back carve. The front view with the mahogany edge showing is very cool too. SR
  5. Something about that feather is bothering me. I think it is the width or how much of the bottom of the chamber you can see and maybe the color of the chamber....at least as it looks in the pictures. Is that area more shadowed in real life? It might be a cool look to paint some subtle feather *fibers- filaments-whatever they are called* h=just a shade different than what is already there. I might give it some featherish depth. SR
  6. That's beautiful Chad! I love it. SR
  7. Man, it seems like there were half a dozen threads you started last year, that just sort of faded away. You got us all hot for the wood porn.....and just left us hanging, ya big tease. It's very good to think we might see some of these finished. SR
  8. You da man, Paulie. I was afraid your maple was a mite thin for a proper carve....but I see you didn't let that bother you at all did you. This is looking sweet. I like black quilt... SR
  9. KPCrash did a whole thread on one. SR
  10. What's that log sitting on your floor there? SR
  11. Of course we're interested. Your work is top notch and an inspiration to all of us. And you owe us some pics from projects begun.....and only nearly finished. SR
  12. Excellent craftsmanship, many many details all done nicely. It's very art deco, I may have said that before.... the headstock goes with the design alright, but the round shape at the very end of it is a little boring. A concave cut that mirrors the horns might have a little more pizazz. I also agree with Wez about the tail piece. Still over all it's an outstanding build and design. SR
  13. Everyone that cares enough to do the best he can knows where every little imperfection is. And they look huge to us: there isno way we can beleive nobody else can see them. But nobody else can see them, or if they do, it's like pssshhh, that little thing? It's the inability to do less than pay that kind of attention to detail that will mean all your projects will end up top shelf! SR
  14. Man, that is some beautiful craftsmanship going on there. Keep it up. SR
  15. It is prized for its resistence to shock; often used for axe handles and and baseball bats over here. We already know it sounds good. Grain shouldn't be much more difficult than wenge. Go for it! SR
  16. Man, I am not a fan of Vs, but I'm a huge fan of the job you've done on this one. The craftsmanship, the wood selection and creativity of this project is really, really nice. SR
  17. Yeah, I always use a brush and soapy water or rubbing alcohol depending on what I've been sanding. You won't get all the discoloration out, but it'll work just fine. SR
  18. I comepletely agree with your assesment concerning the darker fretboard. I was thinking the exact same thing whilst looking at the pic of the bloodwood with the limba and breathed a sigh of relief while reading your next post. Black binding would look great and help the black/dark patterns in the limba stand out...which is what makes that wood look so cool. Black hardware would do the same thing. And yeah, ziricote would rock as a fretboard. Ziricote always rocks! SR
  19. Celtic knot or cross designs would be cool. SR
  20. I can see why your wife said she'd shoot you if you painted that. That's a killer piece of wood. I'll be following this one closely. SR
  21. Since Tru Oil crates a film you could possibly apply more of that over the decal...I have never tried, but they may be some that can speak to that. I have used Danish oil quite a bit and it will not build up a film or affer any kind of protection over a decal. It will soak into the wood and cure there and look really nice but will not offer a great deal of protection. SR
  22. Danish oil will not build up a film like tru oil can. So if you are using Danish and do not want visible pores, you'll need a grain filler, although many use Danish to keep the wood looking as natural as possible and so do not fill the pores at all. Do not seal the wood first or it will not absorb the oil...which is kind of the whole point of an oil finish. Once the oil has cured, a vinyl decal will stick fine to either. Water spots a Danish oil finish, so I would not recommend a water slide on that. I do not know what it does to tru oil...but my gun stocks clean up nicely after being rained on. SR
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