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Everything posted by ScottR

  1. Thank you kind sir! I usually just oil my headstocks and hang them by running some stout braided nylon rope through a tuner hole. I've had one drop before too, and moved to much heavier hanging materials. This headstock gets the full gloss treatment so no hanging through the tuner holes. You've got to spray around the cord (nylon locking ties this time) coming out of the jack hole (sounds like an elaborate curse), but it can be done easily enough. SR
  2. Ha! What you are really seeing is me testing the spot fix feature in the microsoft photo editor for the first time. Works pretty good! Those marks were caused by some fool that let the airgun hose contact the headstock after it was sprayed and before it dried. It is repaired by drop filling which has begun... I'll get a shot or two before it is finished. I just use an artist's brush to overfill the depression, let that dry a bit and then spray. It will shrink back a bit, so I do it between coats till it stops being visible the next day....at least to the degree that leveling will take care of it. I should have known you'd spot that. SR
  3. Thanks Mike. What's mixol? What it is is black transtint mixed into lacquer thinner and then mixed into lacquer and airbrushed over the previous clear coats. Black chrome, now that would be cool. Gotoh has a hardware finish called Cosmo black that looks like Hematite, and I absolutely love. But they don't do knobs in it and Babicz bridges don't come in that finish either. So yes to all black hardware, but sadly no to black chrome. SR
  4. Thanks Ash. This is some of the most angular figure I've ever worked with. There are areas right next to each other on the same side of the bookmatch that appear and disappear based on the light angle. that usually happens on opposite sides of the bookmatch. Some of the most boring flat looking places in the pictures are actually the most chatoyant. Weird. But fun to look at. SR
  5. Ooooooh a burst, that's just what it needs. I''ll bet it's barrels of fun with all that faux binding. At least as much fun as the dye job. I can't wait to see that too! SR
  6. And now on to shooting clear. It is still more blackish than these look....but I'm thinking it doesn't go as far as a blackburst. SR
  7. Then I sprayed black burst and shader coats. And I can't take a picture of them worth a damn. The reflection hides the burst and makes this look much more brownish than blackish. Looks like I even caught a couple of self portraits in the reflections. SR
  8. Got a couple coats of clear on it and leveled them out ,,,,mostly. SR
  9. Looking forward to seeing some clear on that color. I'll bet it will be spectacular. SR
  10. Doh! I completely for got about the other strap button. Still, 3.5 lbs ain't much heavier than air. SR
  11. It has no effect on nitro. It is often used to wet sand instead of water. SR
  12. I've used the Behlen vinyl sealer without any issues, and Behlen and Mohawk are the same company, same thing. I'd say your investigation probably gave you the correct answer. I don't use sealer anymore though, actually besides testing it a couple of times I really never used it. Thinned lacquer does the same thing and better in my opinion. And since I've gone back to CA for pore filling, there is no need for even that. CA seals very effectively, albeit it messy and can be a pain to level. @Drak usually has very good information about sealing steps. SR
  13. That looks good enough to eat just as it is. SR
  14. This is looking really sweet. Also you did an excellent job on your neck join/transition. SR
  15. And here. A And then re-coated with CA and carefully leveled again. I It is ready to shoot a couple layers of clear and then tint.....and more clear etc. next weekend. The truly said part is after a couple weeks of humidity so thick one is in danger of drowning just walking around in the back yard, we just had three days of 90+ degree temps with 40ish percent humidity. Perfect for spraying. Next weekend I'll probably need a life jacket again. SR
  16. A couple of weeks ago I posted in @Akula's thread that if you only mess up one finish you are not trying hard enough. Welp, this is not not my first or my second.....or even my third coxup....but here I am proving the rule. I sanded through the CA layer. Then I touched that up and then I did it again. Sanded through even with the target in sight. So I wasted three days of sanding with 400 grit trying to sneak up on the dye job. And while it appears to be easy to sand through the CA layer with 400 grit, it appears to be impossible to remove the layer using 400 grit. And am I the only one experiencing a shortage of 400 grit? I I've been to three different stores over two different weekends and nobody has 400. Plenty of everything else, but no 400. After several days a futility, I did what I should have done at first and went back to 220 and sanded back to bare wood.No pix, I was disgusted and on a mission. It looked just like the first sand back the first time I did this. Pix on previous pages. Oddly enough I did the same thing with the test on scrap. I didn't sand through, but I sanded too soon and royally screwed up the CA layer. And then sanded back to bare wood and re-dyed. I did the same dying schedule and ended up here: SR
  17. By God you know how to live and enjoy the day! Your blue tongue lizards were not out but my blues lizards--anoles that run back and forth across my driveway and always pause to listen when a good blues song is playing....those guys have been steady companions. I need to take another pic of those for my build. Do you always store your amps in the woodshop? Mine would collect so much wood dust I'm afraid they'd spontaneously combust the next time I plugged them in. SR
  18. Bolt them on now. It'll be light as air. It will still need a neck though,,,,,,, SR
  19. Depends on how deep into the back you go. A tenon that is one inch thick can easily give up a quarter in deep channel for wiring. I do it all the time. Having said that my builds start out notoriously thick before I start carving on them. And I've always said, I've never claimed any tonal or strength advantage (although all that extra gluing surface cannot hurt), but rather I do it that way because it makes me feel good about it to do so. And that alone is good mojo. SR
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