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ScottR

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Everything posted by ScottR

  1. One more light wash with a navy dye mix, very dilute. Ya'll may not even notice..... And then finish polishing to bring the chatoyancy to it's highest level..... S ....which , of course you cannot see in these pictures. SR
  2. If I'd of used bookmatched burl instead of curly maple you'd even see those unnamed figures creeping from the dark depths. **idea** SR
  3. You sir, have nailed the intent, hit the nail right on the head. I'm not familiar with that model but I looked it up, and it does look much like what I'm shooting for. Now we have to see if I can pull it off. SR
  4. Quite the challenging build you two have devised. I expect it to be informative, entertaining, and awe inspiring to watch this come together. SR
  5. I think you've done a bang-up job so far--this thing looks great! SR
  6. Amen brother! I do not enjoy doing binding at all. Luckily my designs do not lend themselves to binding. Having said all that the bound headstock looks killer! Your inlays look great too. SR
  7. I expect most of the spectators are thinking pretty much the same thing. SR
  8. It will be a black burst. The edges will be black as night, some things will be visible in the right light. The rest will be .......blackish. SR
  9. Thanks Andy. It certainly is something.....evolving....may be the best word. SR
  10. In theory yes. In practice I have not seen that to be a problem. I believe it only needs to dry long enough for the carrier: water, alcohol or whatever to evaporate, at which point you only have dye remaining in the fibers and pores of the wood. I have done that and gone back and wiped the wood with a clean rag soaked in water or alcohol and while the rag did pick up some color, it did not move it around any( or enough) that I could see. If that is your finishing plan, it would definitely be a case where you'd want to test on scrap. Exactly.It adds a great deal of depth, which appears to be impossible to capture with a camera. At least, I've never mastered it. From the side that test piece shows that the clear layer is about a sixteenth of an inch thick. From above it looks like there are valleys a half inch deep and ridges a quarter inch tall. As you shift it the dark and light areas to not flip like you often see, but rather change in perspective. It appears you see the ridge from one side and as you move it the peak shifts away and you see it from the other side. SR
  11. Welcome James! I have heard that one year per inch was the rule of thumb for drying felled timber......but have no idea how accurate that is. I'm looking forward to seeing how the first build comes along. Very cool to start right with the tree. Sounds like you might have some carving experience too. We might want to talk about that sometime. SR
  12. Cheers James! Transtint is way too concentrated to use straight out of the bottle. It only takes a few drops per ounce to get a fairly saturated color. In this case I'm using them with acetone, because it dries so quickly. I'm only using these to create contrast and then smooth that out a bit with midtones. The major color will be created by tinting lacquer. Acetone dries very quickly which can leave some streaks if you are planning to add the main color straight into the wood. Water is probably the best for getting even color and smooth transitions if you are trying to do that by wiping it on (spraying the dye mixture with an airbrush give the absolute smoothest). Alcohol falls between water and acetone in versatility. SR
  13. We used to have a guy around here that went by Bilious Frog.... funny how that name comes to mind. SR
  14. I'm enjoying this one. Love the creativity and resourcefulness. SR
  15. Good solution Muzz, nicely done. SR
  16. I know where there is a pallet of rough cut end sealed Cameroon ebony. The pieces all average two inches thick and 4 feet long in widths of 4 inches up to at least 8 inches. The price must rival gold, as I haven't seen any evidence of movement over the last 8 years or so. SR
  17. Wow, you were able to get some serious blue on that! SR
  18. They are aren't they? And they are approaching a nice shade of sun ripened cow flop. SR (really po(o)p sr
  19. All of these steps are to get some midtones in the figure, which really increases the three dimensionality. SR
  20. Following the test on scrap details I worked out at the beginning of the thread. Well, that view is a little jarring. SR
  21. Let's get busy. Sanded to 400. One would be tempted to slap some oil on this and call it a day. It would make a nice looking natural finished guitar....... Nope. It's going to be blackish, after all. SR
  22. Now there's an "oh crap" moment! SR
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