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Everything posted by ScottR

  1. I meant yes you are more inclined to do stuff like you pictured re the fretboards. SR
  2. The difference in porosity and oil content between the heartwood and sapwood is not helping the problem nor is huge range of grain direction in each board. I've tried flattening boards several times and never had any success. Except for just planing the curve right out of it--and that is not an option here. Good luck and be sure to tell is what you did if it works. Moisture and heat may be an option, sort of like bending wood on purpose for acoustic sides... SR
  3. Yes you are, and history proves that out. You've got some beautiful fretboards under your belt. Damn I like the carve on that bottom pic you posted....... SR
  4. Niiiiice. I made a mission style bench out of mahogany some years back with relief carving on the back reminiscent of that. Those ebony pieces had to be carved separately and glued to the headstock face. That's fiddly work with small pieces of super hard splintery wood. You gonna try it? You could go a long way with your jigsaw skills. Just like cutting inlays and then adding a bit a surface decoration, and you don't have to route out any cavities. Good to see you rejoining the madness John. SR
  5. Frisket is the masking film used for airbrush illustrations. Very thin and semi transparent with light adhesive, you lay it over your illustration and use a razor knife to cut windows into it to airbrush that area whilst keeping everything else clean. In other words it is the stuff made to do what you used vinyl for. SR
  6. I'd probably just narrow the nut a little and sand a new taper into the fretboard/neck. SR
  7. That's another word for hard headed and stubborn, right? Thanks for the support! SR
  8. That would lead to some industrial leveling. SR
  9. That's certainly the plan. Me too Muzz, me too. SR
  10. Thanks. You just gotta love it when a new challenge shows up. Every guitar I make becomes my number one......until the next one. SR
  11. That would not do. So I sanded all those bubbles out and left a depression that needed to be filled. I plastered the bottom of the depression with the black goo mentioned above and then leveled that. Then I got the airbrush back out and mixed up a black tint and evened the leveled black out. And then sprayed nitro to fill the depression I'd made. Carefully peeled the mask off and gazed upon the load of work I'll have next weekend, SR
  12. So what have we been doing? Well, here is a view that you didn't get. Granted it is tweaked to show the bad stuff looking worse than it actually did. So I plastered a mix of acetone, black dye, and a bit of old nitro to fill all those bubbles with black. The idea was to then level that back down which would remove all the black but what was in the bottom the bubbles....in theory. Leveled and then polished. Those bubbles are shown many times their actual size.....which of course is exactly have the looked to me. SR
  13. Totally stunning build Dave! So full of subtle and not so subtle details. Bravo! SR
  14. Thanks. That part came out pretty well, if I don't say so myself. Creative camera angles. I spent all last weekend re-working that. My main light source is the sun, which is hard to reposition to get the best angle. When I looked at it in different light the next day, I saw many bubbled that I could not see whilst working on it. The repair feels good and the gloss matches fine, but it doesn't look good to me. My problem appears to be some old nitro I've been using to fill it. It is dregs that I've kept around for touch ups and by now it has too much solvent in it. I've sprayed all my fresh stuff. So it looks like I'm going to buy a fresh quart, and sand down past the bubbles, add a new layer of black and start the fill with fresh nitro. I probably aught to go the extra mile and break out the airbrush and spray in the repair layers instead of drop filling with a brush. The delay just before the finish line is bugging the hell out of me, but as @Muzz said, there truly is no timeline.....besides my own internal timeline. But that's the one I dance to. SR
  15. I can't say I've run across that stuff, but it sounds like it's acting like boiled linseed oil all right. Burnishing helps after it's had plenty of time to dry. I'm sure you end up with something remarkable. SR
  16. My go to is a nitro body and an oiled neck. Danish oil soaked in and then reapplied with steel wool SR
  17. True statement. I have used an automotive buffer with excellent results. I tend to worry about it cutting through the edges of cavities so have just gone back to doing it by hand. Micro mesh and this Meguiars: https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/meguiars-m4-mirror-glaze-heavy-cut-cleaner-16oz.html Once you get to the Meguiars, it takes surprising little time and effort even by hand. And my stuff comes out pretty shiny...... SR
  18. That subtle carve makes all the difference Andy. SR
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