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Posts posted by ScottR

  1. 16 hours ago, komodo said:

    I love the tenacity. Fixing stuff becomes a puzzle, and you just can’t stop until it’s solved to what you have in your mind’s eye.

    I bet this ends up as your #1.

    Thanks. You just gotta love it when a new challenge shows up.:blink:

    Every guitar I make becomes my number one......until the next one.


  2. That would not do.

    So I sanded all those bubbles out and left a depression that needed to be filled. I plastered the bottom of the depression with the black goo mentioned above and then  leveled that.


    Then I got the airbrush back out and mixed up a black tint and evened the leveled black out. And then sprayed nitro to fill the depression I'd made.


    Carefully peeled the mask off and gazed upon the load of work I'll have next weekend,



    • Like 1
  3. So what have we been doing?

    Well, here is a view that you didn't get. Granted it is tweaked to show the bad stuff looking worse than it actually did.


    So I plastered a mix of acetone, black dye, and a bit of old nitro to fill all those bubbles with black. The idea was to then  level that back down which would remove all the black but what was in the bottom the bubbles....in theory.



    Leveled and then polished.


    Those bubbles are shown many times their actual size.....which of course is exactly have the looked to me.


  4. 19 hours ago, mistermikev said:

    that smokey gloss - ooh la la. 

    Thanks. That part came out pretty well, if I don't say so myself.

    19 hours ago, mistermikev said:

    I don't see any ugly spots there!

    Creative camera angles.:D

    I spent all last weekend re-working that. My main light source is the sun, which is hard to reposition to get the best angle. When I looked at it in different light the next day, I saw many bubbled that I could not see whilst working on it. The repair feels good and the gloss matches fine, but it doesn't look good to me. My problem appears to be some old nitro I've been using to fill it. It is dregs that I've kept around for touch ups and by now it has too much solvent in it. I've sprayed all my fresh stuff.

    So it looks like I'm going to buy a fresh quart, and sand down past the bubbles, add a new layer of black and start the fill with fresh nitro. I probably aught to go the extra mile and break out the airbrush and spray in the repair layers instead of drop filling with a brush.

    The delay just before the finish line is bugging the hell out of me, but as @Muzz said, there truly is no timeline.....besides my own internal timeline.

    But that's the one I dance to.


    • Like 2
  5. 6 minutes ago, komodo said:

    Wow sorry I missed this, I've been consumed by work.

    This is a good question. Looking back in my emails, it looks like I bought it off of Ebay. The user name is:  sierrachemicalco
    And, it looks they are still there. Search for "2-Butoxyethanol - Butyl Cellosolve - Technical Grade". One pint is about $25.

    1 Pint

    Thank you sir.


  6. 38 minutes ago, mattharris75 said:

    I've achieved really good results with Tru Oil in the past on several different builds, but this product, Tried & True Oil, is a bit different. It's just boiled linseed oil and bees wax. I probably should have stuck with Tru Oil as I'm pretty comfortable with it, but I tried something new and it hasn't gone as well as I'd hoped...

    I can't say I've run across that stuff, but it sounds like it's acting like boiled linseed oil all right. Burnishing helps after it's had plenty of time to dry.

    I'm sure you end up with something remarkable.


  7. 7 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

    A fellow builder uses an automotive polishing machine, the type with a large sponge attached to a slow angle grinder - he fastens it to the jaws of the workbench. If it's intended for polishing it will work, no matter what the convention says.

    True statement. I have used an automotive buffer with excellent results. I tend to worry about it cutting through the edges of cavities so have just gone back to doing it by hand.

    Micro mesh and this Meguiars:


    Once you get to the Meguiars, it takes surprising little time and effort even by hand.

    And my stuff comes out pretty shiny......


    • Like 1
  8. I use 3M 400 grit, but modified. I take two pieces and lay one on a flat surface and use the other one with a block to lightly sand the grit on he one on the flat surface - both get sanded technically. This creates scratch depths closer to 600 grit with the grit spacing of 400 which keeps it from clogging up for a long time, and makes it easy to wipe or blow the sanding dust off. And I do this dry so I can see what is happening and don't introduce any moisture into any of the cavities and holes.

    Works good for me.:)


  9. 4 hours ago, Muzz said:

    They must be very small blemishes, the finish looks perfect in the photos, one of the great things about making a guitar for yourself with no deadline is you can spend the time getting it just how you want it.

    Well you know how it is. What looks minor to the casual observer looks like the effin' grand canyon to the guy what made it!


    • Haha 2
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