jpmarsh

I made up a quick schematic.

I'm having a difficult time with a pretty easy wiring layout and hope someone has some advice. 2 humbuckers, 1 push/pull volume to split the neck p/u, 2 tones, 3 way toggle. Everything is wired and works properly except when the 3-way is in the middle position, the tone controls are linked. Specifically, when the 3-way is in the middle and I turn the neck tone, both the bridge and neck pickups are affected equally. Same with the bridge tone. This is only happening when the 3-way is in the middle position. What am I missing here?

I think you are talking about the spoke adjustment commonly found on Ernie Ball guitars and also on the EVH Wolfgang models. If that's correct, I prefer to do the spoke adjustment at the heel rather than the traditional headstock type. Unlike the EBMM or EVH guitars, I do an angled headstock and haven't had any problems. Right or wrong, it's my opinion that leaving the headstock unmolested makes it a little stronger and I like the aesthetics of not having to do a truss cover. Here's some examples of mine...

I do not plan on going into the guitar case business, but rather would like to have access to make a custom case for whatever my latest build happens to be. I plan to CNC foam, vacuum glue fabric and installing into existing case. I'd rather not go the flight case route so I imagine that purchasing a complete case and removing the insides would be the best bet. Thanks to all.

Not sure if this is the right place to post this but..... I am interested in making custom guitar cases and would like to find a source to purchase empty cases and create my own custom inserts. Problem is, I can't find anywhere that sells empty guitar case shells. If you are having trouble imagining this, picture opening up an SKB style case but the inside is empty, no foam, no padding. That's what I want to purchase. Any help?

I would prefer to cut the body neck pocket square and then design the angle into your neck heel. Assuming you are machining your own necks as well, this is very easy to do. Even without a 4axis machine, you should have nice results given the proper bit selection and step-over programming.

I do pretty much what you are describing but without the curved fret slots. I use the .023" bit from precisebits.com and it works pretty well. It takes a little longer than sawing the fret slots but I can keep the slots from cutting through the ends which saves time plus I can use my CNC to ensure accuracy. In theory, radiusing the fret slot sounds like a good idea but i'm not sure it's totally necessary.

What cap value? 0.05 from Stewmac

With regards to the volume/pot wiring or the switch wiring or both?

I'll rewire it your way and let you know. Aside from the switch...it should work so I'm assuming something was wrong with the switch wiring. Maybe I should hook up a standard 3-way toggle first and see if it was the switch or not.

So I've completely wired this twice now and have the same result. I'm running two SD humbuckers, 1 volume, 1 tone, 1 3-way rotary, 1 output jack. My goal is a simple neck, neck/bridge, bridge switching. When wired, I get zero hum, sound from both humbuckers, switching works fine. Problem is...no tone contol and greatly reduced volume. I've looked at my wiring a million times and can't find any loose joints or mistakes. Aside from cold-solder joints, What could I possibly be doing wrong here. I've created a quick drawing of my wiring setup. Any help or thoughts? EDIT: Sorry, the pot w/ the cap is the tone, not volume.

So after a few days of searching high and low for some wiring help on the net...I feel the need to just ask and see if someone here can help me out. I want to do a really simple wiring. 2 Seymour HBs, 1 volume, 1 tone, 1 4P3T rotary switch to take the place of a standard toggle switch. No push/pull, nothing fancy. Does anyone have or can point me towards a wiring diagram of this? The rotary has thrown me for a loop as I've never wired one before.

Since this thread was created, I've emailed him about items, received responses, ordered and received shipment. He definitely is around. Not sure why you can't make contact. He replied to my emails within minutes usually.

I realize that the 5-way is the popular route but I'd rather not go that direction for this one. I know the 3-way are available and some builders use them but didn't know the pole requirements. I'll keep searching I guess.....

I've been lurking here almost daily for months now. Great forum. Lots of good information. Unfortunately, I am better at woodworking than I am at electronics. For my current project, I would like to use a 3-way rotary switch to keep the visual appearance of 3 knobs rather than 2 knobs and a switch. I've looked at several suppliers (mouser, others) and am not sure which I need for this application. Does anyone here use this type of switch and if so, where are you getting them from? I also am unsure how many pole positions I need. Any help would be appreciated.