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stuartah

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Everything posted by stuartah

  1. I know what you mean, and I'm working on getting a pickup design for multisim, but for now all I've been able to do is test the various signals and test the charge times When I get a more real source, or I actually have the ability to test this as a real world circuit, we can pick this up again. but the one thing to remember, I put those transistors in there so as not overload the source.
  2. also, besides trying this for the signal output, it'd also be interesting to apply it to some lights on your guitar, like the old rickenbacker guitars
  3. The caps held sustain while the one of the zener models is effectively a battery. In this circuit the zener diode draws more and more current to boost the circuit to that 10v mark in this case. While it may be that you wont need the 10v always there it is simply to force the circuit to have a supply for the op-amp. yeah, but the "breakdown voltage" of a 5V zener diode is 5V. Where is that circuit ever going to see 5V from passive guitar pickups that only output an instantaneous max. of of 2V PTP? You need to have it built because I think your circuit simulator in this case is not a reflection of the real world. Like I said earlier, there's a half a second of charging period, where the zenor charges up to the voltage its set to. Zener diode will pull as much current it needs to charge to its break down point
  4. The caps held sustain while the one of the zener models is effectively a battery. In this circuit the zener diode draws more and more current to boost the circuit to that 10v mark in this case. While it may be that you wont need the 10v always there it is simply to force the circuit to have a supply for the op-amp.
  5. The number of caps is to make sure that all the frequencies are taken out and moved to a near flat line voltage. Caps in parallel add and the fact that when the signal is removed the caps discharge slower and allows for time to pick the next note, rather than having an instantaneous discharge would could harm the op-amp or other components. But the real answer is having one small cap would not cut out the low frequencies and in fact would block them from having a proper charge. The zener diodes are their to help the caps sustain that voltage for when the signal dips below the negative line. Basically the number of caps are their to act as a sustaining tool
  6. That is very true, but at a 500ohm or less for the negative feedback loop, you get a nicer more "beef" sound if you will more or less you get it to that DS area in which there's only distortion when the peaks hit their highest for the voltage output along that line I'm getting someone who has the ability to actually make this mess with it.
  7. Yeah, thanks ^^ But the idea was just to simply give it a "beefier" sound not actually send it into OD every time it ran. The thought also was to put it into a DPDT switch design so you wont always have that OD signal. My original design I think will somewhat work, but the beefing section is so little and like you pointed out its hard to measure the out put on a changing signal since the computer hates variable. The one thing I did notice was that when removed the DC output slowly decase as it also slowly rises. The main thing for this was to simply give a player something play around with like for a solo or something. And the other reason was the thought of the whole battery thing. The "nothing comes for free" saying applied here by taking more room in the guitar by never having to replace the batteries into a small compartment. Edit: I just noticed this, and I've been working with op-amps for a year now, but the voltage output at the rectifiers is directly proportional to the resistor in the feedback loop on the op-amp
  8. Yeah, thanks ^^ But the idea was just to simply give it a "beefier" sound not actually send it into OD every time it ran. The thought also was to put it into a DPDT switch design so you wont always have that OD signal. My original design I think will somewhat work, but the beefing section is so little and like you pointed out its hard to measure the out put on a changing signal since the computer hates variable. The one thing I did notice was that when removed the DC output slowly decase as it also slowly rises. The main thing for this was to simply give a player something play around with like for a solo or something. And the other reason was the thought of the whole battery thing. The "nothing comes for free" saying applied here by taking more room in the guitar by never having to replace the batteries into a small compartment.
  9. Yeah, thanks ^^ But the idea was just to simply give it a "beefier" sound not actually send it into OD every time it ran. The thought also was to put it into a DPDT switch design so you wont always have that OD signal. My original design I think will somewhat work, but the beefing section is so little and like you pointed out its hard to measure the out put on a changing signal since the computer hates variable. The one thing I did notice was that when removed the DC output slowly decase as it also slowly rises. The main thing for this was to simply give a player something play around with like for a solo or something. And the other reason was the thought of the whole battery thing. The "nothing comes for free" saying applied here by taking more room in the guitar by never having to replace the batteries into a small compartment.
  10. I've only done this in virtual, but in theory it works, and when I measured the components the amperage maxes about 1mA Next, anyone remember the ideal model of a zener diode? I kicked the two virtual zeners up to about 20v and dang it kicked the amps up to about 2mA and looking at the output it just blasted that thing to kingdom come
  11. solo frequencies: Also, if anyone noticed, channel A of the top oscilloscope, was halved, this time they are even. Added in this also has different frequencies to follow. the one you are mostly looking at is the 5KHz frequency as the other two are too slow, but you can see the waves fluctuate. Next, what you can't see is that these higher frequencies do take time to charge up the caps, but when they do they work fine and the charge takes no more than one second.
  12. Okay guys, this is it: simply the 3 power supplies represent the pickups, wile being wired in series for the normal signal, the signals are then tapped by a series of transistors, that amplify the the signal into each other. Next, two parallel diodes split the signal as it goes into a rectifier circuit. The number of caps are their due to capacitance adding in parallel and it takes out all the frequencies and forms it into a DC voltage. Next, a 5v zenor diode is added, pushing the voltage up to 5v by adding even more amps. The final outputs should be a near 5v positive with a small, very small glitch every so often. while the Negative side had more glitches, but stayed around -5v DC. These two outputs are then fed into an Op-amp who is also receiving the normal signal from the pickups. The op-amp then attempts to blast the signal to 5v in this case due to the high resistance on the negative feedback. In a normal guitar the op-amp should be hooked into a signal via a DPDT switch.\ The two oscilliscopes along the side are as follows: Top: Output from supply and op-amp out Bottom: DC voltages from the rectifier circuits
  13. I'm not going to deny you guys are right, but at the same time, when I was looking at the op-amp output you could get some interesting OD sounds
  14. For the most part all of your guy's knowledge is correct, I will add in the 1vpp and 2vpp test and see what that outputs, the scematic is the same as a normal rectifier circuit, but since the frequencies are viable, I had to put in several caps in parallel instead of one 47uF But I would like to say the people trying to explain the theory on inductors did give me a few more ideas to test.
  15. I'm currently having a lot of fun with this circuit, if its not obvious, but right now I'm trying to throw in a transformer to see what kind of deal I can pull out there. If anyone wants to try this when I'm done, go ahead.
  16. Okay guys, i just got done putting it in. While my original idea of just using transistors didn't work out too well (there was just a small amount of amplification) The big one that worked was the op-amp idea. it took me to the point of building a full rectifier circuit, but this was a success and when I stuck it in with the op-amp there is amplification, but the op-amp hit its rails so easily so their is room for adjustment.
  17. Well if you have the caps their in the rectifier circuit, it cuts the power, to the RMS voltage, and say you have a 5Vp at the diode, you would now be producing a 3.535 Vrms DC voltage after the capacitors, so in theory, I'm not disobeying the laws of Physics, and in fact all I'm doing is increasing the amperage with all the parallel circuits. And I'm redirecting that amperage back into the main line through a few transistors or in the case that I'm finding out, an op-amp.
  18. if your lucky and your guitar has a tap and series/parallel switch for each pick up, one thing you can do is turn on the tap and switch it over to series, this creates a short in the guitar electronics, and whenever the pickup selector is switched to have that pickup 'on' the short will block out all sound and thus create an off like effect. I personally wasn't expecting that when I wired my current pickups in, but does great Tom Morrellow(sp).
  19. yes, and I was trying to do so through simple amp gain, as I am not home where I can crunch the numbers and I was doing a little crunching and realized that the end series of gain needs to have a probably a full rectification circuit. I can explain more tonight
  20. I'm currently in Purdue's EE and in another designing class, if anything you need to take a basic analogue course, as I would like to continue on like you, I would really suggest taking the digital courses as the heaviest thing, since modern day runs on digital. Also, keep in mind that you do have to keep both together and separate at the same time, meaning their are actual circuits out their like I believe the Marshal's JCM series amps with the tube pre and main amplification circuits, all run on digital controls. Even more is Moog with their synths. In the end all you can really do is study your heart out on electronics, then knowing how to be a luthier will add in. that's the only way see anyone getting hired into those companies.
  21. Okay guys, this is my first post, but I will try and stay on topic (oh wait, just fell off <.<) Okay, I have not been able to the math due to not being home, but I still have the schematics and I was wondering if the math and theory sounded plausible to anyone else. Alright, the first part is getting the juice to run the circuit, and in using parallel circuits, I thought to tap the the point in which the guitar's output go to the pickup selector switch, or in the case of guitars with separate volume controls and tone pots, the tap point will be before these to maximize the voltage. After the parallel taps, the now parallel signal will go through a series of transistors, five max in most cases (tapped humbuckers will need the five if there is 3 pickups). This should safely combine the signals without any cross into the original signal. If any of you can't visualize it, the first signal will be fed though a small resistor, maybe a 1K, into the base of the first transistor, while another signal is planted on the emitter (hope I didn't reverse the names for those electronic name savvy) From there the output at the collector will go into the base of the next transistor as the next signal will be added. I believe their will be a few small resistors added in their so as to keep the amperage down, but I am unsure as of yet. The next thing we go into is a slightly more complex halfway rectifier circuit. As of yet I don't know if I can add a regulator, of if I do, if I need to make a rectifier. But to the more pressing matter, I thought I might put in a germanium diode for the cut off, to maximize the voltage (I know its a .5v difference). Next it'd go through the capacitor section, and this is where I still have to calculate which ones I will need, as I expect I will need several in parallel to ground. (probably 47uF, 4.7uF, .1uF, etc. Just some common cheapies that will need to be added) The reason as most might guess is that to get the caps fully charged at all frequencies of the guitar, capacitance adds when in parallel. (this circuit can also be done in reverse, probably and be made to have a reverse voltage to power more like an op-amp) At this point in time I think I should have a general battery output. Okay, next I believe it is up to you to decide this new out put, like if you wished for an op-amp or in my case a few more transistors. If you were wondering I was planing take another series of transistors in parallel with this supply, and a few more simple resistors to reduce the amperage. And it should all be connected back into the circuit via a DPDT switch. I think this circuit should simply work as a power amperage gain, and its gain will be based upon how hard you play, meaning it wont gain as much when softly playing. I should be able to have the math that says whether or not this works tomorrow, but if anyone else can see it right now, please say something.
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