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About ModulusMK

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  1. Try not to use some 'plastic' finish. Like polyester is, used on maaany many guitars, especially cheaper ones. They mud the sound of the wood and total tonality is lost. The guitar starts to sound like plastic. Probably yours was before sanding it down. For mine bass project I used acrylic and it's very good. Very satisfied, does not mud the wood at all, does not crack, looks good... On some squiers I had to remove the polyester paint, recolor them from red to black and finished with acrylic. The guitar saw a new world in sound... Polyurethane is good choice too, but if you have special requirements like UV protection and stuff.
  2. What do you mean? Some sticker over them or something... or maybe you can darken them more and add more stain to turn them into some 'shape'... not to look as some greasy spots.
  3. It turned out nice, yeah. On those 2 spots you can stick something after all finish is done...
  4. That looks interesting since it is composed of phenolic resin. They say that they're trying to make the material non brittle (opposite of regular phenolic), so I don't know how will sound that thing...probably a little muddier than phenolic. Maybe I'll contact them. Finally I got in touch with the guy from eBay, his servers or something were broken, that was the big delay in reply. We exchanged a few mails and now he is not replying again. Probably again some problems...I'm going to call him this afternoon. He has a lot of XX black phenolic as he said, they are 5/16", a little thicker but I will sand them down to 1/4". I hope he would be willing to send them here.
  5. Yeah, that's very good! Continue with the work and post pics later when finished.
  6. Depends on the type of the filler, although I doubt that naphtha will remove that. You can try, but be careful... try small area that is not much visible, somewhere on the back. If there is hardener on the filler hardly to remove with naphtha.
  7. If adding stain you must remove primer and everything else that is on top of the wood. You'll have to reach pure wood by sanding to add stain. This means you also will have to remove a small amount of wood to remove the primer and grain filler off the pores of the wood so you can stain well. If in pores some primer or filler is left there stain wont stain or will very little. Other way than sanding away some wood to remove filler from pores is with using acids again, but it's not recommendable as you can ruin the wood a little and the pores wont be cleaned too well. After doing all that, last hand of sanding before staining and adding sanding sealer should be around 360-400 grits, then you add stain, leave it dry, then add sanding sealer (amount and layers depends on whether you want to fill the pores or not, however on the pic that you want to achieve the result pores are left open) then sand with 280 then 360... and 600 grits as final before nitro finish. Be gentle with rougher sand papers, they sand much faster than finer ones! Look carefully what types of products you are using!!! They have to go well together.
  8. I've explained a way that I've tried on several Squiers for removing the finish. For home conditions electric sander is a very good choice. 2-3 hours of sanding and all is removed. Other way (and more risky) is to 'corrode' or 'byte' the finish with acids or other liquid that does not goes well (necessary for chemical reaction) with the finish the guitar has. But after that, sanding is going to take place again... after all better is to choose sanding from the beginning and is safer and easier to work with. As you wish, the choice is yours
  9. That is not walnut, it's mahogany. You can strip or sand the finish with electric sander till the wood starts to appear. Be careful while working not sand off the wood much Start with 150 grits and remove all the color with it, than continue with 250, then 320 and so on to achieve smoothness and to remove 'scratches' from rougher sand paper (be VERY careful at the edges of the body, at those points color is removing more quickly than of the flat points)... last hand before applying lacquer should be around 600-800 grits. Some parts of the body you'll need to sand by hand, not all points are reachable with machine. After removing all of the finish you can fill the pores of the wood with transparent grain filler for wood of course. If you want exact result as of the second pic then do not fill the pores (you wont have much smooth finish but that is the same as on the 2nd pic). At the end apply clear lacquer as protection and that's it. But think four times do you really want to do that... according me it's better black in this case.
  10. You can try with yellow tint sadolin. That is specifically for tinting purpose. Here you can find it: http://www.ackosdiydecorative.com/sadolin-...-1ltr-700-p.asp Going down on the page you can select the color of tint. Before applying of course you'll need to remove the old finish of the neck. Apply more coats if you want stronger tint of yellow. After applying sadolin you can lacquer the neck if you want.
  11. Haha man, you've made me laugh (in positive way, it's just interesting that what you're saying ). I could do all of that yeah, but at Modulus there are wise guys. They would ask me for a serial number of the bass (I can find one somewhere on web), after that they're going to check with their database who bought the bass and is it bought new or it is a second hand (if it is a second hand you can forget about everything) and are going to call the guy that has the bass with that serial number to make sure is it everything as I'm telling them . Unfortunately no one here neither close or far of me has a Modulus for me to know the guy to make the lie more real... Modulus started to use truss rod since the first half/middle of the '90. They use 2 way adjustment similiar if not the same as stew's, for upbow and backbow. And it is quiet consistent that carbon/phenolic combo from one neck to another and it sounds awesome to my ears. J.pierce, I'll try contacting those companies as well and see what are they using and if could they help me. I need a quarter inch thickness, yeah. Also I contacted Moses Graphite although they use graphite boards instead of phenolic. They replied that at the moment they do not have anything for regular bass.
  12. That's exactly what I'm looking for! A re-shipping of items, but out of eBay it's almost impossible to find someone. Those whose business is nothing and would like to earn money in every way and do almost everything, hardly you can reach or find them over internet. Those whose business is something are using the same enormously high priced shipping methods. Some of those I've found on eBay do not have black, some are not responding... and are only a few, to say 2 or 3 members! I've searched everything that came up at my mind... sometimes I spend 5-6 hours a day in search only. I really don't know what will I do... I'm stuck on one point almost a year. Damn
  13. I do not know what kind of and if phenolic is used there.. for bobbins I think is a regular plastic. For fretboard is best to use XX or XXX grade, both are paper based ones. That is what I'm looking for.
  14. I've found a few more companies about black phenolic, with some of them I had a little chat. All of them have enormous shipping rates no matter where they are because they are a company or distributors. For two pieces with dims 1/4"x3"x27" to ship here they ask for $114!!! That is unreal!!! My friend bought whole guitar from US with $90 shipping. For these pieces shouldn't be more than about $20-30. Just some regular person is needed to ship them via regular post office. Companies use FedEx, DHL, UPS and all other expensive shipping options... Still waiting for answer from the eBay guy... his feedback there is 100% positive about everything and communication too. I don't know why he is still not responding.... If he has a piece maybe he would like to ship via regular post office....
  15. Yeah, I should sand it rough before gluing.. but first to get that piece somehow in my hands... You have a pretty much of an extension there of the fretboard. I'm going to leave it longer only around 0.3"... just to have the truss rod covered a little bit. And I'm thinking of that stewmac hotrod.. but the width is non standard on purpose just to buy their products like the router bit for it. It's a good truss rod anyway. What glue will be best for use here, to bond two composites?
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