ModulusMK

Try not to use some 'plastic' finish. Like polyester is, used on maaany many guitars, especially cheaper ones. They mud the sound of the wood and total tonality is lost. The guitar starts to sound like plastic. Probably yours was before sanding it down. For mine bass project I used acrylic and it's very good. Very satisfied, does not mud the wood at all, does not crack, looks good... On some squiers I had to remove the polyester paint, recolor them from red to black and finished with acrylic. The guitar saw a new world in sound... Polyurethane is good choice too, but if you have special requirements like UV protection and stuff.

What do you mean? Some sticker over them or something... or maybe you can darken them more and add more stain to turn them into some 'shape'... not to look as some greasy spots.

It turned out nice, yeah. On those 2 spots you can stick something after all finish is done...

That looks interesting since it is composed of phenolic resin. They say that they're trying to make the material non brittle (opposite of regular phenolic), so I don't know how will sound that thing...probably a little muddier than phenolic. Maybe I'll contact them. Finally I got in touch with the guy from eBay, his servers or something were broken, that was the big delay in reply. We exchanged a few mails and now he is not replying again. Probably again some problems...I'm going to call him this afternoon. He has a lot of XX black phenolic as he said, they are 5/16", a little thicker but I will sand them down to 1/4". I hope he would be willing to send them here.

Yeah, that's very good! Continue with the work and post pics later when finished.

Depends on the type of the filler, although I doubt that naphtha will remove that. You can try, but be careful... try small area that is not much visible, somewhere on the back. If there is hardener on the filler hardly to remove with naphtha.

If adding stain you must remove primer and everything else that is on top of the wood. You'll have to reach pure wood by sanding to add stain. This means you also will have to remove a small amount of wood to remove the primer and grain filler off the pores of the wood so you can stain well. If in pores some primer or filler is left there stain wont stain or will very little. Other way than sanding away some wood to remove filler from pores is with using acids again, but it's not recommendable as you can ruin the wood a little and the pores wont be cleaned too well. After doing all that, last hand of sanding before staining and adding sanding sealer should be around 360-400 grits, then you add stain, leave it dry, then add sanding sealer (amount and layers depends on whether you want to fill the pores or not, however on the pic that you want to achieve the result pores are left open) then sand with 280 then 360... and 600 grits as final before nitro finish. Be gentle with rougher sand papers, they sand much faster than finer ones! Look carefully what types of products you are using!!! They have to go well together.

I've explained a way that I've tried on several Squiers for removing the finish. For home conditions electric sander is a very good choice. 2-3 hours of sanding and all is removed. Other way (and more risky) is to 'corrode' or 'byte' the finish with acids or other liquid that does not goes well (necessary for chemical reaction) with the finish the guitar has. But after that, sanding is going to take place again... after all better is to choose sanding from the beginning and is safer and easier to work with. As you wish, the choice is yours

That is not walnut, it's mahogany. You can strip or sand the finish with electric sander till the wood starts to appear. Be careful while working not sand off the wood much Start with 150 grits and remove all the color with it, than continue with 250, then 320 and so on to achieve smoothness and to remove 'scratches' from rougher sand paper (be VERY careful at the edges of the body, at those points color is removing more quickly than of the flat points)... last hand before applying lacquer should be around 600-800 grits. Some parts of the body you'll need to sand by hand, not all points are reachable with machine. After removing all of the finish you can fill the pores of the wood with transparent grain filler for wood of course. If you want exact result as of the second pic then do not fill the pores (you wont have much smooth finish but that is the same as on the 2nd pic). At the end apply clear lacquer as protection and that's it. But think four times do you really want to do that... according me it's better black in this case.

You can try with yellow tint sadolin. That is specifically for tinting purpose. Here you can find it: http://www.ackosdiydecorative.com/sadolin-...-1ltr-700-p.asp Going down on the page you can select the color of tint. Before applying of course you'll need to remove the old finish of the neck. Apply more coats if you want stronger tint of yellow. After applying sadolin you can lacquer the neck if you want.

Haha man, you've made me laugh (in positive way, it's just interesting that what you're saying ). I could do all of that yeah, but at Modulus there are wise guys. They would ask me for a serial number of the bass (I can find one somewhere on web), after that they're going to check with their database who bought the bass and is it bought new or it is a second hand (if it is a second hand you can forget about everything) and are going to call the guy that has the bass with that serial number to make sure is it everything as I'm telling them . Unfortunately no one here neither close or far of me has a Modulus for me to know the guy to make the lie more real... Modulus started to use truss rod since the first half/middle of the '90. They use 2 way adjustment similiar if not the same as stew's, for upbow and backbow. And it is quiet consistent that carbon/phenolic combo from one neck to another and it sounds awesome to my ears. J.pierce, I'll try contacting those companies as well and see what are they using and if could they help me. I need a quarter inch thickness, yeah. Also I contacted Moses Graphite although they use graphite boards instead of phenolic. They replied that at the moment they do not have anything for regular bass.

That's exactly what I'm looking for! A re-shipping of items, but out of eBay it's almost impossible to find someone. Those whose business is nothing and would like to earn money in every way and do almost everything, hardly you can reach or find them over internet. Those whose business is something are using the same enormously high priced shipping methods. Some of those I've found on eBay do not have black, some are not responding... and are only a few, to say 2 or 3 members! I've searched everything that came up at my mind... sometimes I spend 5-6 hours a day in search only. I really don't know what will I do... I'm stuck on one point almost a year. Damn

I do not know what kind of and if phenolic is used there.. for bobbins I think is a regular plastic. For fretboard is best to use XX or XXX grade, both are paper based ones. That is what I'm looking for.

I've found a few more companies about black phenolic, with some of them I had a little chat. All of them have enormous shipping rates no matter where they are because they are a company or distributors. For two pieces with dims 1/4"x3"x27" to ship here they ask for $114!!! That is unreal!!! My friend bought whole guitar from US with $90 shipping. For these pieces shouldn't be more than about $20-30. Just some regular person is needed to ship them via regular post office. Companies use FedEx, DHL, UPS and all other expensive shipping options... Still waiting for answer from the eBay guy... his feedback there is 100% positive about everything and communication too. I don't know why he is still not responding.... If he has a piece maybe he would like to ship via regular post office....

Yeah, I should sand it rough before gluing.. but first to get that piece somehow in my hands... You have a pretty much of an extension there of the fretboard. I'm going to leave it longer only around 0.3"... just to have the truss rod covered a little bit. And I'm thinking of that stewmac hotrod.. but the width is non standard on purpose just to buy their products like the router bit for it. It's a good truss rod anyway. What glue will be best for use here, to bond two composites?

Westthemann, I wrote them too, although they are specialized for metals. Thanks It would be to say ideal for the companies to see me as a business worth to deal with, of course... but real things are far from that. Those catalogs you get are some king of waste of money and paper too.. yeah. If you buy something from stewmac for an example they'll keep sending you at least 4-5 next catalogs, when you have the same and even more things on their site and you have a powerful option online that you cannot have it in catalog or any other book - the power of "search" Do you in America have some holiday on May 25th or something? I heard something like that... because there is still no answer from the guys and I guess that's the reason of slow response.

Well yeah, it's good idea to ask for a list of distributors form company, but sometimes is a problem that the the company do not replies to any question. The best is to call them however. Tthe mails I have sent were just "normal" and short with standard question do they have what I need or not and greetings at the end of message. Nothing that would bother them or something. To some companies I wrote 2 or 3 mails if they do not respond in a period as a reminder or in case they do not get the mail. As refers to my english, I'm trying to be as more as accurate, anyway it's not my primary language and I'm trying to use as best as I can. Why I'm not trying that much to find something here? It's because I know what products are being produced here of almost any type, and I've NEVER seen or heard someone to use phenolic in something except as electrical insulator for power boxes, and there color does not matter so every phenolic that is here is natural brown color and is mostly glass based. That is for sure. For most things I've searched for are associated with USA because I know there are the things I need. If haven't searched my area deeply I wouldn't go so far and to make shipping costs higher and stuff. I don't know how else to say that here in radius of 1000 miles I doubt there is the black thing (maybe someone has it at home but how can I know that). Maybe there is in Germany or near, but I don't know german and is much easier to find something in US than anywhere else. That's why my first search is there. I'll keep trying everywhere nevertheless, thanks J. Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it very much and is very encouraging for me. Soapbarstrat, I'm wainting for answer from the eBay guy too, on his page he is claiming that he can acquire many types and sizes... so we'll see. Thanks man!

I wish I had that luck of easy finding phenolic.... Now still waiting for answer from pro plastics. And I'M writing to every company I find on the web!!! But not many have the thing especially in small quantities and shipping to Macedonia. This is getting too much... It will really be the best for a supplier to cut the pieces for me for less shipping costs, yes. I will be more than happy and grateful to find what I need just to have someone to send them to me here... When companies hear small quantities and where to ship... they do not answer at all... That is the main problem. I did not quiet understand you about stainless frets, did get them or not. In case you didn't you can find them at www.allparts.com. I got from there stainless ones for me too.

Of course we have phones here . That was the second thing I tried after going from store to store in neighbor area. Anyway it's more difficult to find a store or manufacturer in a phone book than on the internet. I checked Alibaba long time ago, there isn't any sheet that suits the use. On MSC they don't have black phenolic... Just have sent email to pro plastics, so will see what it will be. Thanks for this info though. I think ebonol is something very close to phenolic like phenolite is. And I have almost everything about the bass to finish it, except fretboard and magnets for pickup. I'm planing to wind a pup not to buy any EXCEPT if I find a Lane Poor MM 4 string. Everything that can be made at home I want to try. I noted in previous posts from where I am. Macedonia is the country. I understand you guys there, but someone to come here I think will understand me. I'm not writing here for nothing just to bother you and ask maybe "stupid" and boring repeatable questions. Also I'm NOT just complaining that here we have nothing for someone to get pissed of my writing and complaints, I'm writing the real life here...and asking for help if someone can help me. Many of the companies in USA about smaller quantity of products don't want to hear for shipping here..that is not my fault. All the rest throughout the world are more difficult to find in any way especially at my area. What refers to price... oh man, USA products are between the cheapest ones (this does not at all mean not good, just it is cheaper to produce it there because of USA's developed industry). And believe me, it's almost HALF the price for me to purchase something from there combined with shipping rather to find it here just the product. Take for an example a bass strings. In USA D'Addario's cost about $20. Here the same strings are 35 euros. Converted in Macedonian denars is $1 - 46 denars, 1 euro - 61 denars, so $20x46=920 denars, 35 euros x 61 denars = 2135 denars. Notice the difference? Please don't get me wrong on this.. just wanted to clarify some things and continue with posts related with this forum . All the best

I know about that, the china or other suppliers in my region. I've searched almost everywhere I thought of... Unfortunately my area isn't developed online as USA is. So if somewhere near me there's a phenolic I cant go and travel everywhere and ask if they have because they have no site on web or stuff. The big problem is the BLACK phenolic. Here we have natural brown, but that isn't what I'm looking for. The places I know, when I ask do they have black phenolic, they tell me that black one does not exist. My area is at VERY low level of information about a lot of stuff because of low internet spread and plus the low information around here. The neck is carbon-fiber, and when I say to someone about it, they look strange at me, "Hey, what on earth is that, is it a metal? Where did you find that, can you say the name of the thing again?" Many things I've purchased are from USA (my first home made bass is 70% from USA parts just does not have phenolic as fretboard), even the carbon-fiber, which I had to pay "blind" on people that I've never seen or know in my life who can easily take my money and not send me the product and I'm f..ed up! But the guy turned out to be honest and very communicative and send me the product without any issues. Before I find carbon-fiber I've been searching for a source for whole 2 and a half years!!! And finally founded it! (it would be much easier and less time if I were in USA, but I'm not ). Now it's the same problem about black phenolic, I found a company, of course you guys here at GP helped me about it, and now they don't want to send me the piece because I'm overseas and "non long-established overseas customer". So if they wont give me a chance how can I be their customer at all? Wrote them again, but second time no answer. That's why I'm looking for help here, if someone would like to purchase the piece for me (I'll send him money of course), cut it for less shipping and send it to me. I understand that all of us have homework to do. If someone wants something from here at my place that does not have at his area I would gladly help him. That is what I have to say for now. Thanks

Nothing with McMaster. Anyone willing to help, please?

I'm thinking of buying smaller piece. On McMaster they have black Garolite XX 24"x12"x1/4" piece. It's shorter 1.2" for bass scale but I'll attach it when gluing on neck, not much choices I have. That piece cut lengthwise in half or 4 pieces will make it much less in cost to ship. That is what I think, just someone needs to help me if he wants to. I haven't contacted Martin Koch or Thomas Dramm, but I will right now. Thanks

I've just contacted McMaster about the piece. Damn They replied to me that they have decided to accept orders from long-established overseas customers. They cannot provide me a quote or accept orders from me (((. I wrote them again. If nothing happens is someone willing to sell me a piece of Garolite XX if have, or I'll pay somebody to buy me a piece from there and send it to me? I'm from Europe, Macedonia. Thanks, and sorry for bothering I don't want to be pain in the ass, but I need that piece. It holds down my job for almost a year.

Yes, you're right man, maybe I'm going a little bit too far. I was just considered about shipping of that large piece.. I'm overseas, Europe. But when comes to choice.. that's it! The price of the piece is ok, nothing about it!

I contacted Modulus and San Diego Plastics too somewhere 1 year ago. No answer from both. Sdplastics is large quantities supplier only and Modulus is replying if you have question about their basses and if you have Modulus bass ONLY. Other way are not interested in any way about anything. I found the inventor of the necks Modulus uses, contacted him and he told me that is a paper based phenolic that I'm looking for and if I find a source to let him know )). Also I'm in TalkBass and nothing there... some guys there that have good info about something are playing dumb and do not want to help, that was very obvious. I do not know why. In other words it was like "I don't want to tell you", really.