Hrothgar
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Everything posted by Hrothgar
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I'm interested in the G&L Saddle Lock Bridge... http://tinyurl.com/nq93z7 Any users? H
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Well I've done some measuring and you were right. None of the TOM bridges will work without cutting a 'seat' for them so they sit lower. Not a huge deal, but I'm not sure I have the tools to do a nice enough job creating the counter-sync. So... hardtail options. The Schaller non-tremolo roller bridge looks decent and loads from the back. Anybody tried this one and care to offer an opinion? Thanks! H
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Wow that's a really good point, and I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for pointing that out! I definitely don't want to get into modifying the neck to fit the bridge. I'm becoming convinced that one of the hardtail options is probably the straightest path to the desired end result for me. Although I am seeing this "Pigtail Aluminum Wraparound" bridge that is described as having "a slightly lower profile to help solve high string action problems". I'm going to do just what you said. Make a full scale drawing, take a whole bunch of measurements and really consider my options. Thanks! H
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I've been perusing the hardtails on stewmac. I'm liking a couple of those Gotoh ones. Especially because they load from the back! I saw that top loader as well. I'm thinking I'll try that on the old mij strat I have in pieces in the garage right now. Does anybody have any opinions about whether this procedure will help the sustain? and whether a gibson style tunamatic mounted on the big bolts would give a better result than the "sit on top" hardtail style? H
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Thanks for the good luck wishes! Yes many people have advised me to shim or "block" the tremolo bridge effectively creating a 'hardtail'. My main goal is to hopefully increase the sustain and have more control over the action. I was planning to go with a gibson style wrap around bridge or bridge/tailpiece. But, I just now learned what the strat 'hardtail' style bridge actually is. That looks like it would do, but one of my pet peeves is having to thread the strings from the back of the guitar. It's just a pain to feed the string up the cavity or to retrieve a broken ball end that is stuck up there. I do have an old mij strat that I'm wanting to convert also, and I think in that case, I'll definitely go with the hardtail bridge since it will probably just drop right in. There is one on SM that is top loading... only $20, might be a worthy experiment.
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That's a big help! Let me ask you this though. In that tutorial, it has you routing out the top of the guitar. I'm assuming this is to address the top side cavity that true floating bridges such as I floyd rose require. On my guitar, there is not "float" cavity, it's really just a "dive only" tremolo, and the only cavity on the top is simply the whole through the body where the metal part that the springs attach to goes through (i'm not sure what that part is called actually). So would I be correct in assuming that the top routing isn't necessary in my case? Thanks again, H
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Hi, This is my first post on this forum, though I've been lurking for a bit. What a great resource you've all build here! I have a newish Hagstrom guitar that has a great neck and plays really well, but it has a really unfortunate 'cheap strat' knock off tremolo bridge. It's this one: http://www.hagstromguitars.com/F200P.html Given that I don't even use tremolo I'd like to try filling the cavities with Mahogany (what the body is made from) and installing a regular fixed bridge/tail piece. I've described what I want to do on some other music forums and everybody acts like I'm crazy. Though to me it seems like a pretty straight forward procedure. So my questions are: Am I crazy? Any advice or experience you can pass on before I start this project? Thanks! H