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MiKro last won the day on May 22

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About MiKro

  • Birthday 07/01/1957


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    GOTM November 08

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  1. You know I was just gigging you. They are sound plans, While your abilities are where you question yourself. Kudos for knowing your limitations at this point in time. Your advancement will continue as you go. Mike
  2. Not really, many ways to attack that issue. You could just wick glue in it and good clamping. Not the best solution. You could do inlays or inset wood stringers on both sides so it looks planned and fixes the problem. You could cut off the end using a scarf joint and re-glue a new piece on and reshape the heel. There are other ways as well, just slow down and plan the attack, then make it so. MK
  3. I would have done a 30* Vcarve for the f-holes, then used a reverse vcarve inlay. Then done the actual f-hole cutout leaving some of the contrasting inlay as the border line That's just the way I would have approached it. LOL Looking good Mike!!! MK
  4. @Bizman62 is correct. YOU should spray poly in the way they advise on the can so as it is to stay somewhat wet without runs, it is a film type clear coat. It is unlike lacquer, which is a solvent type and will blend/etch itself chemically with the previous layer. Poly and 2k must dry if not adhering to the correct procedure. Then you have to sand it so there are scratches /sanding marks (tooth) for the next layer to adhere to. ( not the best method as it may peel later). mk
  5. Or use thick walled aluminum tubing. Brass would allow you solder to it if needed. mk
  6. No the tap should have instructions as to what size drill bit to use. If not then look it up. there are plenty of Tap to drill bit size charts on the net. Some wil list if wood vs metal. another option would be to insert a thick walled brass tube glued in then tap that. mk
  7. So looking through this thread, it is a cool idea. I wonder though if a Cockroft Walton Voltage multiplier would be a better choice for getting to the voltage needed instead of the transformer? It would save space and weight while accomplishing the same thing? By using the CWVM type of ladder whether half wave or full wave bridge rectification is used, you would have multiple points for lower voltages for heater filament or other needs. You could also gate it if needed as well using something like an IR2153 IC using half wave bridges. This would allow to invert the Vdc and also pulse it if needed. Just a thought? Also maybe use a thinner top or bottom plate and no speaker. Instead use a plate exciter instead to make the top or bottom act as the speaker? Any way cool thread and nice looking. mk
  8. That appears to be more of what I would guess as stress/flex induced with mineral deposits? It runs with the grain of the wood. It looks as though it came from a large limb that moved a lot in the wind. It is not ambrosia stain, otherwise you would find small bug holes and they would be at many different angles. to any surface. Also the color is wrong for ambrosia stains. juts my 0.02cents worth. mk
  9. I get that, I have a large Pecan tree that I park under. The squirrels use my truck for target practice when they shit while they eat the pecans. Little bastards. MK
  10. Just remember to move the car or you may have over spray from the vent. mk
  11. Hi All, I'm playing around the idea of a CBG guitar. 3 string. Have started the neck design. Most do not use a truss rod. I am thinking about using a 1/4" carbon fiber rod inserted from the back side with a skunk stripe. I know over time even 3 strings will change the neck. What are your thoughts of putting the carbon fiber rod in with an arched/radius route that induces some back bow? How much arch or radius is where I am at currently? I am thinking somewhere in the 60 ft radius range similar to the back of an acoustic guitar. Any thoughts on this idea is appreciated. MK
  12. No I had one that was a silicone mat with little like half balls on the surface. I bought it from Woodcraft. It went into the trash after that problem showed itself. mk
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